Pouring footers

lstinthot · Jan 16, 2012

Anyone ever mis-calculate or receive the wrong amount of concrete when pouring a footer? Ordered concrete today to pour my moms footer and we came up short, we were the last delivery for the day so we could not have the truck go to the yard and get more. So now it is setting up overnight and we will try to pour the rest in the morning.

I can't believe I was off by about 2 yards, I ordered 5 yards. Boards bowed out a little is some spots. average depth is 20", 18" wide by 43 feet in length for that width. then a smaller run at 8" wide by 21 feet 20" deep.

Will the new concrete set up strong enough to the stuff that was poured today or are we scre*** and have to dig it up (little seat time if that is the case)? We poured 3500# with fiberglass for the footer. When we ran out, I made a key in the top of what was poured and had my brother get some rebar to put in vertically. We have one side left, about 14" by 21 feet by 18" wide left to pour.

We are building a metal building by American buildings.

cmyoung2 · Jan 16, 2012

with the key and the rebar, there should be no problems. The sooner you finish the better.

RDrancher · Jan 16, 2012

It will be a cold joint and could result in a future hairline crack but with rebar stubbed out and tied to the rebar in the new pour it should be ok, especially pouring tomorrow. If it does crack and become a problem, a low viscosity epoxy can be injected into the crack from one side to mend it. The epoxy is stronger than the surrounding concrete.

You were correct on your calcs for yardage although I would have added a half yard to be be safe.

A sure-fire way to calculate any concrete in the future is:
Length in ft. X width in ft. X depth in inches divided by 324 = cubic yards

It's pretty well known that concrete companies add new concrete on top of leftovers from the last job the truck delivered to when delivering to a residential footing job. No inspector taking samples so they don't worry about it much. It's not right but they do it all the time. It's most likely that the driver miscalculated what he had left over or possibly the batch plant just plain screwed up. I'd call the concrete company with your measurements and calculations and ask them why you ran short. If it were my hard earned money (and it has been before) I'd be making that call.

KennyG · Jan 16, 2012

Keep the "raw" surface of the concrete wet. It will probably bond OK as long as it doesn't completely dry out. Cover it and lightly spray with water if the surface appears to be be drying. (Don't get it wet enough that the water runs, that will weaken it.)

JB4310 · Jan 16, 2012

A footing as we call it here, is typically under a foundation wall in conventional home construction. Or below grade as in piers etc
In that situation a cold joint in the footing would not be a problem, You do not want a cold joint in a foundation wall below grade or you will most likely have a water problem. No real structural concerns in residential construction.

Your building a structure on grade with no basement, I'm assuming. This footer is what the buildings sills will sit on? Doesn't really matter as long as like I said there will be no cold joint below grade (but above floor) where there will be storage/ living space.

You should have nothing to worry about.
Concrete foundations are so overkill, 1 linear foot of a typical foundation could support the entire structure.

JB

CurlyDave · Jan 17, 2012

I don't think you miscalculated, I think you were shorted on the concrete.

I would call the concrete company and ask them to send a representative out to measure the amount you got.

If they shorted you, the responsibility is theirs. Ask what they are going to do about it?

lstinthot · Jan 17, 2012

CurlyDave said:
I don't think you miscalculated, I think you were shorted on the concrete.

I would call the concrete company and ask them to send a representative out to measure the amount you got.

If they shorted you, the responsibility is theirs. Ask what they are going to do about it?

That is kinda of what I figured.

lstinthot · Jan 17, 2012

JB4310 said:
A footing as we call it here, is typically under a foundation wall in conventional home construction. Or below grade as in piers etc

JB

the metal building we are putting up sits directly on the footing. We have to make a trough on the top of it for the sides to sit in. Then the building get bolted together in pieces, stood up in the trough. Once the whole building is up, we have to fill the trough with grout to secure the building. First time I ever saw something like this.

The reason for the deep footer/wall, is to get the building up off the ground. In pictures, it look like the footers and slab are a mono pour. Could not do that because of the grade. We built the frames up above grade so the inside of the building will be an extra foot of head room.

Thanks for all the replies.

Here is a link to what we are building.
Metal Garage, Steel Building Garage Kit, Metal & Steel Garage Kit, PreFab Building by U.S. Buidings

arsenix2001 · Jan 17, 2012

How accurate was your depth and how bad was bowing alittle? Your almost dead on 5 yds for an exact measurement pour. If your measurements were off and you had bowing forms all over youd be amazed how much concrete it eats up. Just a thought, not saying the case. But i had that happen 10/1 over getting shorted by a truck. All my company did was pour structual retaining wall and structure foundations for almost 7 years.

JB4310 · Jan 17, 2012

CurlyDave said:
I don't think you miscalculated, I think you were shorted on the concrete.

I would call the concrete company and ask them to send a representative out to measure the amount you got.

If they shorted you, the responsibility is theirs. Ask what they are going to do about it?

Dave,
I agree he may of been shorted but...
You may get them to take pity on you and get the finish batch for free. but otherwise how would you prove how deep the footings were, dig under every linear foot?

lstinthot said:
the metal building we are putting up sits directly on the footing. We have to make a trough on the top of it for the sides to sit in. Then the building get bolted together in pieces, stood up in the trough. Once the whole building is up, we have to fill the trough with grout to secure the building. First time I ever saw something like this.

The reason for the deep footer/wall, is to get the building up off the ground. In pictures, it look like the footers and slab are a mono pour. Could not do that because of the grade. We built the frames up above grade so the inside of the building will be an extra foot of head room.

Thanks for all the replies.

Here is a link to what we are building.
Metal Garage, Steel Building Garage Kit, Metal & Steel Garage Kit, PreFab Building by U.S. Buidings

Sounds like an interesting configuration, very wind proof??
I don't have a clear picture in my mind of this, but like I mentioned, as long as you have no cold joints below grade out side and above grade inside you will have no problems.
Structural integrity is a non issue, I'm only concerned about possible water seepage.
JB