Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520

[Sockwell]

Thanks for posting the project in so much detail. For my interests, this is one of the most informative posts I've read. I do have a question about a component. Where did you get the couplers with the snap ring groove? I've been working on a project for hoses for a FEL third function kit. These couplers would minimize the number of fittings needed. I glanced through the Surplus Center on-line catalog. If they're there, I missed them. Again, thanks for the post.

 

[jimgerken]

I found them at a local hydraulics shop, called Ronco (Rochester MN and Lacrosse WI). They must be in the Parker catalog, maybe you can find the part number and order it that way.

 

[Sockwell]

Just got off the phone with our local Parker guy. He called Parker. They told him they do not make a hydraulic quick coupler with a snap ring groove on the outer body. The best they could do was offer one with an extended body and threads that would use a bulkhead nut. Thanks for the help. I'll keep looking.

BTW, still a very informative thread. I'm trying to get the stuff together to add couplers to run a stump grinder on a CCY EX3200.

 

[KML]

Sockwell,

Don't know if you're looking for 1/2" but the snap ring retained couplers are available from John Deere but they aren't cheap..

This is the one that is used on the rear remotes on my 4310. They are O-ring Boss (ORB) so you would need hoses with that connection or an adapter.

1/2" Female ORB snap ring hydraulic quick connect from John Deere -
LVA13231 $27.57 Snap ring - M42702 $2.79

There are smaller ones available but I don't have the part numbers. What kind of flow do you have?

 

[jimgerken]

If you can get the threaded one for a bulkhead nut, go that route. The snapring is a tough way to do it anyway. The snapring is so small, the hole has to be so very accurate, no room for error, and if you pull too hard you can dislodge the snapring. The nut sounds like a better plan. I will try to follow up and look at the make and model on the snapring couplers I have, and add that info here later.

 

[Sockwell]

Please don't go to any trouble. There are other ways I can do what is needed. You've aready helped myself and others with the details of this post. I will probably go ahead and get the Parkers that can be used as bulkheads or use an assembly of fittings that include bulkheads.

The WR Long Third Function kit for my FEL was delivered with hoses. The hoses are too long, are zip tied to the front FEL cross tube, with the fittings hanging. They drag the ground when the FEL is lowered and, when using a grapple, debris will get caught in the hoses. I'm looking to either replace the hoses with hard pipe or with shorter hoses, with the QC's in a plate. The type QC's you used would have eliminated the need for a seperate bulkhead fitting.

 

[kennyd]

I bought some Safeway S25A-2's that have the groove in the body. But I do agree with what Jim wrote about them-bulkhead fittings are much more secure. They are compatible with the Pioneer's as well.

Manual Connect Couplings - SafeWay Hydraulics is Your Best Choice

 

[scottrh]

Before I forget to do it, the torque specs I found and use are:
Banjo bolt 150 inch pounds (8 mm hex wrench).
M8x50 cap screw holding DSCV on, 17-22 foot pounds (22 mm socket).

Jim - one question if you do not mind. I will be starting this type of project soon. Where did you get the two torque specs on these two bolts (banjo and cap)? I do not have the service manual and can't find this info online.... thanks Scott.

 

[jimgerken]

Sorry, I can not remember where the torque data came from (Chemo will do that to a guy). I am sure if I posted it here, I did not make it up. It must have come from JD literature of some kind. Maybe someone can verify for you.

 

[kevinwak]

Awesome thread, can't wait to do this to my 2520 over the winter!

 

[dwellonrooftop]

I think I'll go with this on my 2720 (which does have power beyond) after Christmas. I might have to purchase a few parts at a time though.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[sughikim]

Hello
Jim were right he make a good job (perfect with good picture) I have the manuel book for John deere 2320 and for the Banjo it 17N.m or 12 lbs-ft
M8x50 cap it 23-30N.m or 17-22 lbs-ft
Jim show inch pound but it look the same
Banjo bolt 150 inch pounds (8 mm hex wrench).
M8x50 cap screw holding DSCV on, 17-22 foot pounds
Thank Jim Good job you shoud be a good teatcher. Ha! Ha!

 

[jimgerken]

Sughikim: Welcome to Tractor By Net! And thanks for checking the torque specs for us.

 

[dwellonrooftop]

I did not notice any check valves, does it raise and lower fast or do you think it would be an improvement with them ???

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I did not notice any check valves, does it raise and lower fast or do you think it would be an improvement with them ???

The check valves that you are talking about do not slow the control of the cylinders. They lock the cylinder in place and were first developed for safety purposes. The use of them on top and tilt cylinders compensates for leaky control valves. If you want to better control a hydraulic cylinder, you need to slow the flow down in some manner either by feathering the control valve or by reducing the flow with a flow restrictor.

 

[Sasquatch4100]

I'm finally getting back to this project!

Phew! Man can the regular distractions of life get you off tract.

This is the valve I'm using. Surplus Center - 3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

It's an open center, so I don't think I need to add the block off or "high pressure carry over" plug and just use the standard "out" or return to tank line.

Here's a pic of my valve. The bracket is fabbed, but not finished and painted. Have most of the fittings and hose to plumb it all up.

The positions pretty good. It's not in the way of anything including the rock shaft lever or your elbow, but allows easy access to the levers without doing contortions to manipulate them. First two levers are for the TNT and the third one will have quick disconnects for an aux cylinder of some kind.

 

[J_J]

It just makes good sense to use the PB. If it is there, use it.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-7867-B

If your valve is going between your FEL PB and the 3pt, you should use the PB from the remote for the 3pt, as the 3pt will pressurize the total hyd circuit. Route the OUT port of the remote to tank.

 

[jimgerken]

'SQUATCH' -- Looks great, nice and compact!

 

[Sasquatch4100]

I agree, but I don't think there's a fitting on this model to return the flow to the tank. I haven't noticed anyone using more than one hose on the return side of the valves. Or I should say I haven't seen anyone using more than 2 hoses (ie input/output.

I know on this tractor the fluid has to flow throw the pb or any aux hydro valves and then through the scv for the FEL. I think it flows through the rockshaft valve first though. I'm going to plumb it using the open center port and see how it is (that's what's recommended). It shouldn't harm anything since the pressure won't dead head.

I am curious as I've heard some people on this thread state they've heard a noise after installing a spool valve or that their rock shaft stopped working.

 

[Sasquatch4100]

'SQUATCH' -- Looks great, nice and compact!

Thanks Jim!
Your posts are a great inspiration for us who start these little projects on our little Deeres.

How you doing btw? I thought a while back you said you had Chemo.