Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Adjusting Chains

[caspar3259]

Got my first set of chains for the Kubota... 132 pounds worth. Put them on using the "hook 'em on and drive forward" method. That worked pretty well. They went on easy and straight the first time.


Two things I would like to hear your comments on:

They are a bit long for my tires and I have read how you can remove a cross link if needed. However, these are the "duo-grip" chains where each pair of cross chains is linked together. And I would only need to remove one cross chain of the pair. That doesn't seem like a good idea. I would have to cut off the links to the next cross chain and would also end up with a gap. Right now the free ends of the side chain are attached at the link after the first cross chain. I'm thinking of just securing all the loose stuff and leaving them as-is without cutting or removing anything. Your thoughts?

Second question: all the loose bits are currently secured with bailing wire (I know, but it was handy:ashamed. Is this a reasonable solution to keep thru winter? Or should I look for some small quick links or clevis to secure the ends that would otherwise dangle?

No snow in the forecast yet, so I have some time to get it straightened out.

-Jeff

 

[leonz]

Got my first set of chains for the Kubota... 132 pounds worth. Put them on using the "hook 'em on and drive forward" method. That worked pretty well. They went on easy and straight the first time.


Two things I would like to hear your comments on:

They are a bit long for my tires and I have read how you can remove a cross link if needed. However, these are the "duo-grip" chains where each pair of cross chains is linked together. And I would only need to remove one cross chain of the pair. That doesn't seem like a good idea. I would have to cut off the links to the next cross chain and would also end up with a gap. Right now the free ends of the side chain are attached at the link after the first cross chain. I'm thinking of just securing all the loose stuff and leaving them as-is without cutting or removing anything. Your thoughts?

Second question: all the loose bits are currently secured with bailing wire (I know, but it was handy:ashamed. Is this a reasonable solution to keep thru winter? Or should I look for some small quick links or clevis to secure the ends that would otherwise dangle?

No snow in the forecast yet, so I have some time to get it straightened out.

-Jeff

On your first question


Did you deflate the tires slightly and air them back up after you secured the chains at their tightest connection point?

How long an overlap do you have? is chain is riding on chain?, if so thats a no no. You need to order a tractor chain repair tool from chainsrus.com in Denver, Co. (tirechains.com does not have any tooling in stock (been there done that) The repair tool is worth the cost as there are no banged knuckles or torn skin.

I had my chain order in three days as of this past Wed and they were great folks to work with.


No on the purchase of shackles!!, as they will loosen up without blue loctite.
Purchase several (6) plus of the quick chain repair links that are the type with the hex nut that opens the link; then you can tighten it back up with a wrench and no worries about any loose chain flailing around.


You should invest in set of chain tensioners for the rears to keep them tight as they can slip(been there done that, re done that, you can use bungee cord if you want to but the spring spoke tensioners are a bargain considering the aggravation of slipping chains.



1. ANY loose chain is a problem waiting to happen.
2. Repeat, any loose chain is a problem waiting to happen.
3 Read number one and two again

happy holidays

 

[Jerry/MT]

Got my first set of chains for the Kubota... 132 pounds worth. Put them on using the "hook 'em on and drive forward" method. That worked pretty well. They went on easy and straight the first time.


Two things I would like to hear your comments on:

They are a bit long for my tires and I have read how you can remove a cross link if needed. However, these are the "duo-grip" chains where each pair of cross chains is linked together. And I would only need to remove one cross chain of the pair. That doesn't seem like a good idea. I would have to cut off the links to the next cross chain and would also end up with a gap. Right now the free ends of the side chain are attached at the link after the first cross chain. I'm thinking of just securing all the loose stuff and leaving them as-is without cutting or removing anything. Your thoughts?

Second question: all the loose bits are currently secured with bailing wire (I know, but it was handy:ashamed. Is this a reasonable solution to keep thru winter? Or should I look for some small quick links or clevis to secure the ends that would otherwise dangle?

No snow in the forecast yet, so I have some time to get it straightened out.

-Jeff

Assuming you tightened the chains as much as possible with the latch and hook. If there is a lot of chain left over, you can use baling wire to hold that on to the outer links.

Do you have chain tighteners? One form of these consists of a thick rubber band with 5 or more hooks on it that attach to the periphery of the chains and tighten them. They take the slack out of the chains.
You can also use tarp rubbers or bungee cords to do the same thing. I have a heavy duty set that is made out of springs and chain for my chains.

 

[chopped]

yes what he said the rubber band( heavy bungie) (like a truck one) Make your own 'S' hooks with wire or coat hangers..

 

[Don87]

yes what he said the rubber band( heavy bungie) (like a truck one) Make your own 'S' hooks with wire or coat hangers..

S hooks are very cheap at most hardware stores, and the tarp straps are there also........I love one stop shopping:thumbsup::thumbsup:

But yes, if your chains are too long...........shorten them. As was stated earlier, loose chains cause problems.

 

[caspar3259]

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, I need to get some tighteners and will take care of that this week.

I did not deflate the tire before mounting the chains. In fact I think TireChains.com recommends against that. Anyway, these are pretty snug by hand and tighteners should take the rest of the slack.

I think the link leonz meant to post was www.tirechainsrus.com. I can't seem to find their accessories, however.

I thought a picture might help. Hopefully the glare from the sun does not get in the way too much.

There are 6 side links on the loose end before you get to the first cross chain and then 3 links to the second cross chain in the pair. The buckle is hooked to the middle link between a pair of cross chains. Or another way of saying it is the buckle is on the 9th link from the end.

I like the idea of the quick links. Those should be stronger and less pokey.

I'm still open for comments, but I think I'm zeroing in on what I need to do.

-Jeff

 

[leonz]

I was mistaken about them having the tools on their
home page; if you go to tirechains.com and you will
see the repair tools that tirechainsrus has in stock (which tirechains.com does not have in inventory(sold out).

I would order the spring spoke chain tensioners
for your use.

 

[pat32rf]

I'd just use a couple of small clevis's or quicklinks to fasten the second ("beyond") sections of the crosslinks and keep an eye on things. The inner sidelinks of my chains go on with 1/2" bolts, washers and self-locking nuts. Didn't have enough of the proper latches when I made up the chains, now I have them sitting on the shelf don't have time to install them.. Been fine for 6-8 yrs without them...

Have you driven on those chains since you installed them? I tighten mine as much as possible when installed, the 1/2hr later can get another link in the outer side chain. Probably do this once or twice more before I'm done.....(the inner side-link stays a fixed length) Then I install bungees....

 

[reggiejr]

Ive been looking at your chain situation and my question to you is your inside
connection looser thus forcing you to over tighten the outside side link?

Try balancing the inside/outside length by hooking up both of your side links (inside then outside)to the link after the last cross link this would be the tightest your chains could be if you did no mods.

If those chains are for your tire size they should fit nice without removing a cross link especially with brand new rubber like that.most of that loose side link chain after you determine the proper length could be cut off to leave you like 1 or 2 extra links that would look a lot cleaner.

try that and like others have said get yourself some chain tensioners. I own some and they do work good.If your chains are a little loose it wont really be a big deal on a tractor at slow speeds.Higher highway speeds on cars and trucks require very tight chains so when they expand they don't hit the fenders your chains will never see that type of situation.

 

[FredH]

In looking at your picture , I would try what Reggiejr posted . Unhook the out side then rehook the inside as tight as you can get it , then rehook the outside . I dont know , least I can't put my finger on it , but something just seems " Off " ?? Meaning , are they the right size chains for those tires or ???? Seems like they are to long .

When ever I have had to cut down a chain or when hooking them up an a cross link comes into play , the chain was made for a different size tire . , usually a standard 22.5 chain going onto a 22.5 low profile tire . Course I am talking Semi truck , but my first impression in seeing your picture is that the chain was to big for that tire .

Fred H.

 

[caspar3259]

Ive been looking at your chain situation and my question to you is your inside connection looser thus forcing you to over tighten the outside side link?

I tightened the inside first and on one tire the inside is on the exact same link, and on the other tire it is one link "looser".

I drove around the driveway twice and they are about as tight as I can get them by hand.

I assume they are the right size as I clicked on the 12.4-24 link on tirechains.com and that is the size stamped on the side of the tire. I believe the bags were labeled #229, which is probably a tirechains.com stock #.

I think I'll just use them as-is, with the exception of adding tensioners. It's kinda strange to have one cross chain loose because it's "outside" the buckle.

-Jeff

 

[Chilly807]

For the sake of playing devil's advocate, I'll mention that there are two schools of thought on how tight chains should be.

Mine (Tellefsdal ice chains) are meant to be run quite loose, according to the installation instructions you should be able to easily slip a clenched fist under the side chains, and the chain should move about 30 cm around the circumference of the tire after driving a half mile or so.

I've run them this way for 2 full winters with zero problems, they are just tight enough that they don't slap the fenders. The manufacturer says that overly tight chains will wear tires, and are much more efficient when loose.

I use small shackles with a piece of stove wire locking the screw pin to hold the side chains together.

I cut mine to size, and shortened them once more after the first season, to be sure they were long enough.

Sean

 

[JoeL4330]

here's a link to the chain tool Cooper Tools 0390MLN Chain Repair Tool Bender 30 in L

 

[crazyal]

If it was me I think I would modify those chains. I think that crosslink that attaches to the slack portion of the chain could cause you problems. The U shaped end link that connects the cross link to the side chain can be opened up and moved to a different side link. If you ever have to replace a cross link you also would open them up.

You could move the last couple of cross links closer together or you could leave the link open enough so it will slide onto the side chain and hook it onto the other end of the chain.

 

[leonz]

I tightened the inside first and on one tire the inside is on the exact same link, and on the other tire it is one link "looser".

I drove around the driveway twice and they are about as tight as I can get them by hand.

I assume they are the right size as I clicked on the 12.4-24 link on tirechains.com and that is the size stamped on the side of the tire. I believe the bags were labeled #229, which is probably a tirechains.com stock #.

I think I'll just use them as-is, with the exception of adding tensioners. It's kinda strange to have one cross chain loose because it's "outside" the buckle.

-Jeff

As Sean/Chilly807 has mentioned you should loosen the chains enough to allow you to slip your palm under the cross chain. What this does is allows the cross chain to dig in to the snow and ice before the tread/rubber contacts the cross chain.

Tthe impact and digging in of the lugs of the cross chain agaist the snow/ice helps anchor the cross chain and allows it to hold and then release as the next cross chain impacts the snow and ice as you travel in either direction.

A tightened snow chain does not allow the cross chain to impact the face of the snow/ice and start to dig in before the tire advances and the torque of the rear wheels in travel spins the chain and tire "as one" negating/reducing the traction advantage of a looser cross chain across the bias/face of the tire.

You have to remember that there is only one skinny section of cross chain that is in contact with the ground just like one rib of an R1 or R4 rear tire during the dry months.

 

[Chilly807]

As Sean/Chilly807 has mentioned you should loosen the chains enough to allow you to slip your palm under the cross chain. What this does is allows the cross chain to dig in to the snow and ice before the tread/rubber contacts the cross chain.

Tthe impact and digging in of the lugs of the cross chain agaist the snow/ice helps anchor the cross chain and allows it to hold and then release as the next cross chain impacts the snow and ice as you travel in either direction.

A tightened snow chain does not allow the cross chain to impact the face of the snow/ice and start to dig in before the tire advances and the torque of the rear wheels in travel spins the chain and tire "as one" negating/reducing the traction advantage of a looser cross chain across the bias/face of the tire.

You have to remember that there is only one skinny section of cross chain that is in contact with the ground just like one rib of an R1 or R4 rear tire during the dry months.

I couldn't have explained it any better if I'd tried, Leon...:thumbsup:

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

If it was me I think I would modify those chains. I think that crosslink that attaches to the slack portion of the chain could cause you problems. The U shaped end link that connects the cross link to the side chain can be opened up and moved to a different side link. If you ever have to replace a cross link you also would open them up.

You could move the last couple of cross links closer together or you could leave the link open enough so it will slide onto the side chain and hook it onto the other end of the chain.

This is what I did with the ends of mine, instead of the last end being a 4 link it is now a 2 or 3 link, I can't recall exactly. I used a cold chisel and a hammer to open the "crimped" ends where the crosslink attaches to the side chain, then a block of hardwood as an anvil and a big hammer to close them again.

There IS a special tool for doing this, all my method cost me was some time, swearing, and a band-aid or two.. you're not likely to need the tool again anytime soon.

Sean