New (To Me) Drill Press

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks to Rawinok2 and his praise of the benefit of a slow speed drill press in his mini dozer thread, I got motivated and bought a used drill press. My wife picked it up for me when she was at a conference 250+ miles away this weekend. She is the best wife!! I didn't see it until she got home today. This thing is a Beast!!

(For those who are wondering I did give my wife a hug and ask how her trip went before I ran out the door swinging my arms and jumping up and down to get a look at the new toy... er... tool. She's sleeping now, so I've taken time to poke around and see what I have.)

It is a Orbit brand OR 1458 Drill press with a 1/2 HP motor and 12 speeds. This will be a big jump from my little 5 speed 1/4 HP Delta that I have been using. I will likely take some time tomorrow and drill some big holes in thick steel to see how well it works. There's nothing available for it on the web. No owner's manual, no parts diagrams. It's made in Taiwan, so I don't have super high expectations.

It's old and used, so I'll spend some time tuning it up. It seems like what it needs most is cleaning and lubrication. Any suggestions for a good oil to use on the moving parts of a drill press or how to clean it?

I also need a chuck key. I've never had to buy a chuck key. Do I just need the numbers off the chuck to get the right key?

 

[flatheadford]

Nice drill press. Is that a Jacobs ball bearing Super Chuck. If it is, that chuck is worth way more than you probably paid for the drill press.
Looks like you also have a morse taper spindle. Drop the quill down and see if there is a slot for a drill drift used to remove drills and chucks. Then you can use morse taper drills and other tooling.
One of my drill presses looks identical to yours. It's made in Taiwan also and called a Packard. It has a Morse #2 spindle.
Congrats on the new tool, and the great wife.

 

[JB4310]

I've got what looks like an identical machine, just a different name on it.

It's a decent machine and will serve you well.

You can clean most of that with steel wool, I would not apply oil to the moving parts except maybe the spindle, if there is a way to do that, I never have. Oil on any of the gears or other moving parts is going to attract metal chips etc and do more harm than good.

I've had no problems with mine, It's not as slow as it should be for boring large holes over 3/4 " in thick metal over 3/4" but for most tasks it works well.

I keep a plastic garbage barrel cover handy to put under the round table to catch the majority of the chips. I also have a cheap vise that helps tremendously holding what ever I'm drilling.

Good luck, JB

 

[Craig Clayton]

You will need to clamp your work to the table as this drill press will not back down if the drill grabs. I use SAE 10 w 30 oil. I am not sure if your chuck is a morse taper or not . How I would find out is to stroke the quill down with power off and see if there is a slot through the quill shaft. If there is you use a a tapered drift to drive the morse taper out. Then you can buy a set of morse tapered drills and really start making holes. You could also buy a set of 1/2 inch shank drills that are turned down and you can drill up to 1 inch steel with ypur drill press.

Craig Clayton

 

[MtnViewRanch]

JB, your shop makes me sick. Tall ceilings, windows with a nice view, lots of tools and the worst part, neat and clean. I'm very envious, oh well maybe someday.

 

[Baby Grand]

<snip>
I've got what looks like an identical machine, just a different name on it.
<snip>

Me too. Mine's a 25 year old "Black & Decker" that I bought at their outlet store in Milford. Certain details are identical - like the lever you turn to tension the belts, the hub with the 3 levers, and the recoil spring. It's been a real workhorse - never any problems. Mine didn't come with the the nice rack & pinion rotating table option that yours has - mine's just a rectangular table that slides up & down with 2 clamps to lock it. I bet you could get parts from B&D if you ever need them.

 

[SandburRanch]

QUOTE: I also need a chuck key. I've never had to buy a chuck key. Do I just need the numbers off the chuck to get the right key?

*****************************************************

It is best to take the chuck to a machine shop supplier to get a quality key that fits correctly. There are minute differences in keys that make them real aggravating when they don't match the chuck correctly.

 

[Willl]

Sweet,,,

What's your slow speed RPM ?

 

[JB4310]

JB, your shop makes me sick. Tall ceilings, windows with a nice view, lots of tools and the worst part, neat and clean. I'm very envious, oh well maybe someday.

I'll show you some more pics just to show off, but don't be envious, cause I don't own it anymore. This was a commercial building I bought in terrible distress, renovated it and used it for just a few years, and had to sell it.

Don't feel sorry for me either though, cause I didn't sell cause I couldn't afford to keep it. I sold it cause I couldn't afford not to. Got made a deal I couldn't refuse

The building was awesome though for us mechanical type people.
Masonry construction, 50'x60'= 3000 sq ft. 18 ft ceiling, four 10'x12' doors, one 12'x14' door, 2 storey office suite. 36" I beams with hoist trolleys, 1 acre of fenced, industrial zoned lot.
I do miss it but really didn't need it, got a smaller shop behind my house now. No overhead doors, but I do have a 20'x40' covered truck port at least.

 

[MF 1532]

nice , I cleaned up a drill press my Dad owned . My shop is pretty clean , but to keep the dust off of it , I keep a trash bag stretched over it , when not in use .

 

[JB4310]

Went out to the shop to see if there was a number on the chuck key but there isn't. Measured the nipple part of the key, that goes in the chuck, it's 5/16" dia. and there are 12 teeth on the key. don't know if that will help.

The chuck says "Select" JT-3# 5/8 cap- 18mm.

An old timer taught me a trick for tightening a chuck, tighten from all three holes, progressively tighter from the first to the third.
Don't know if that's any secret or common knowledge.

Mine still has the orig price tag on it, $149. in 1981. I bought it used for the same amount around 1993.

The speed on mine goes from 460 rpm up to 2400 rpm

JB

 

[toxicjeeper]

I have a 12 speed Delta as well and speed is 460 on its lowest setting and 2400rpm on highest..I wouldnt even want to drill wood at that speed...

I also agree with taking the chuck in..I have 3 chuck keys that are "close" and none fit perfectly...

If you want to get to the 200 rpm and use that puppy as a mini-mill you can always add a jack shaft..Lots of beef in those old presses to add anything you want...

 

[deereman75]

This is basicaly the drill press I have. Except the one we have was turned into a bench top one. It is also more of a dark gray, and the handle is a bit differnt. This is close enough though. I will try to get a picture of mine.

My dad bought it about 25 years ago at a tool dealer in vermont, it was bought new in 1944 by the darthmouth collage physics dept machine shop. This thing still has less runout then a new powermatic. It works great for metal work. It drills a 1/2 inch hole in 1/4 plate like it was wood. The one in the picture is a 1942.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

WOW, Thanks for all the good info. I was excited about this drill press when I got it, but now I'm even more excited.

The chuck IS a Jacobs ball bearing Super Chuck. I really don't know what that means, but I trust flatheadford that it's a good thing. The numbers on the chuck are Jacobs 16N 3 UT, 1/8 - 5/8 CAP. The spindle does have the slot in it. The spec plate on the front of the press calls out the spindle as MT#2. I assume that means Morse Taper #2. Once again, I don't know what that means, but I'm excited to find out. I did a little more looking and found that a Jacobs K4 key fits the 16N chuck (and others). I'll see if I can find a K4 key locally. If not, I'll try and get the chuck out and take it in to get the right key. I don't even know where to take it around here. I'm guessing Ace Hardware is NOT the place. I may have to ask the guy at the machine shop where I've had a few things done.

Craig Clayton's suggestion that I can drill 1" steel is nice. I'll have to look into morse tapered drills and see what you're talking about. I guess that means I need to add a tapered drift to my wish list.

Thanks to all who posted brand names of your similar machines. I may need to cross reference one of those machines to get parts. I'm pretty sure I'll need a recoil spring. I'm guessing that Baby Grand's Black & Decker will be the easiest to find. Baby Grand, what is the model number of your drill press?

My slow speed is 250 RPM. I'll work with that for a while and see if I want it any slower. I know that there are router speed controllers available to slow the speed down even more. The chart on the lid of the drill press specifies speeds for both 60 Hz and 50 Hz. The 50 Hz. speeds are, of course, slower. I didn't even look to see the high speed for this drill press. I'd guess it's in the 3K RPM range. I may use the higher speeds for a sanding drum, etc.

As for the cleaning and oiling, Everything on this drill press is stiff. The table adjustment, the spindle, the belt tensioner. The motor is a little loud, too. I may pull it and see if it has an oil hole. I'm hoping that with a little cleaning and oiling and exercising of the moving parts, I can get this ugly old beast moving gracefully and smooth.

I think that I've opened a whole new world of possibilities in my shop with the purchase of this drill press. Thanks to all for the input and suggestions.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Guess what!!!

A guy I work with just stopped in to drop some stuff off. I bragged my new drill press up to him and he said he had a whole box of drill bits that take a morse taper. He can't use them. He's going to check if he still has them and if he does they're mine.

Sometimes things do work out well.

I feel like some silly schoolgirl for how excited I am about this new tool.

 

[Short Game]

About 8 years ago I bought my 8 speed Craftsman from the Nickel Ads and wish I hadn't. I should have gotten something like you did. I paid $75 and got one from a commercial machine shop that had been ridden hard and put away wet. I should be thinking about replacing it rather than improving it. The machine was of an original quality that should never have gotten it into such a shop. It has lots of holes drilled through into the table. The table moves by gravity, not a rack gear. It was used by people who didn't like it, obviously.

Sorry about the gripe, but seeing what others have stings. :mur:

 

[Renze]

Guess what!!!

A guy I work with just stopped in to drop some stuff off. I bragged my new drill press up to him and he said he had a whole box of drill bits that take a morse taper. He can't use them. He's going to check if he still has them and if he does they're mine.

Sometimes things do work out well.

I feel like some silly schoolgirl for how excited I am about this new tool.

Morse taper drills is the best since sliced bread... No more slipping drill shafts, or welding notches to them to prevent slipping...

Oh, and dont apologise for feeling like a kid on christmas eve when you get new (or old) toys... you've come to the right place

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Oh, and dont apologise for feeling like a kid on christmas eve when you get new (or old) toys... you've come to the right place

I'm glad to know I'm in good company.

 

[flatheadford]

Anybody price a Jacobs 16N lately.

Amazon.com: JACOBS MANUFACTURING CO Ball Bearing Geared Key Super Chucks - Capacity: 1/8" - 5/8": Industrial & Scientific

Here's the key you need.

http://www.amazon.com/Jacobs-3655-H...CZ5O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1321919175&sr=8-7

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Anybody price a Jacobs 16N lately.

Amazon.com: JACOBS MANUFACTURING CO Ball Bearing Geared Key Super Chucks - Capacity: 1/8" - 5/8": Industrial & Scientific

Here's the key you need.

Amazon.com: Jacobs 3655 K4 Thumb Handle Chuck Key with 3/8-Inch Pilot-Size for Jacobs Series 36 ,16N, 18N Keyed Chucks: Supersax: Home Improvement

Yeah, I think the chuck is a keeper assuming it still works.

I got the K4 key from a machine tool supplier this afternoon. It's tight, but it will work.