Chains and things..again,again

[outoftractorluck]

Looking at chains for my L3400 with R4 tires. The subject has been covered before and lots of answers on this forum but I still have lots of questions.

I'm looking at Duo-trac chains from Tire Chains, Truck Chains, Car Chains and Traction Cables. They seem to be priced competitively and they wont get between the tread. Anybody any experience with tractiontirechains or this chain type?

Looks like I have a little less than 2" clearance between the tire and the frame. I'm hoping this is enough? Is it feasible to set the chains high on the inside?

If I need spacers fitment.info is advertising very cheap aluminum spacers. Anybody any experience or thoughts on these guys?

Any help would help!

 

[Chilly807]

I put Norse ice chains on my L3400 with AG tires. I think your R4's have a lot less clearance than the AGs, you'll probably need spacers. Mine slapped occasionally at first till I shortened them a little more. I had almost 4 inches of clearance.

Sean

 

[whistlepig]

Looking at chains for my L3400 with R4 tires. The subject has been covered before and lots of answers on this forum but I still have lots of questions.

I'm looking at Duo-trac chains from Tire Chains, Truck Chains, Car Chains and Traction Cables. They seem to be priced competitively and they wont get between the tread. Anybody any experience with tractiontirechains or this chain type?

Looks like I have a little less than 2" clearance between the tire and the frame. I'm hoping this is enough? Is it feasible to set the chains high on the inside?

If I need spacers fitment.info is advertising very cheap aluminum spacers. Anybody any experience or thoughts on these guys?

Any help would help!

I don't have any experience with Duo-trac chains but they look like a good chain to me. I have exactly 2" clearance between my sidewall and fender and that only leaves 1/4" clearance for my chains. Chains, even mounted snugly, have tendency to walk side to side on a tire a little during use. I would be afraid mounting on the high side would allow the chain to walk off the tire.

 

[whistlepig]

These are good looking wheel spacers.http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/224087-tire-chains-wheel-spacers-new-post.html

 

[JB4310]

Looking at chains for my L3400 with R4 tires. The subject has been covered before and lots of answers on this forum but I still have lots of questions.

I'm looking at Duo-trac chains from Tire Chains, Truck Chains, Car Chains and Traction Cables. They seem to be priced competitively and they wont get between the tread. Anybody any experience with tractiontirechains or this chain type?

Looks like I have a little less than 2" clearance between the tire and the frame. I'm hoping this is enough? Is it feasible to set the chains high on the inside?

If I need spacers fitment.info is advertising very cheap aluminum spacers. Anybody any experience or thoughts on these guys?

Any help would help!

Those look like great chains, but if you have 4x4 you don't need anything more than regular ladder chains either 4 link or 2 link spaced.
I have 4 link spaced ladders on 2 tractors and even on a 2 wheel drive machine with turfs the thing is like a bulldozer. On my 4x4 with R4's and 4 link spaced ladder chains, there is no need for more traction. to much traction and you might break something IMO.

To answer your question about setting the chains up high on the inside, you can do that by leaving more slack in the inside side chain and taking up the extra slack with the outer side chain. that's usually how mine end up cause it's easier dealing with the outer side to get all the slack out as much as I can. I make my chains tighter than a skeeter's tweeter, some like them loose.

Hopefully those 2 inches you have will be enough, it may be close but I think you can do it if you keep them tight.

JB

 

[whistlepig]

I have 2" fender to sidewall clearance with these chains and ran them all last winter with no problems.

 

[northwind318]

I have the duo tracks on my 1530 nh with no problems.2 inch clearance will be no problem and you only will need them on the rear tires.This chain is meant for r4 tires and work as intended.

 

[outoftractorluck]

Thanks everybody. It sounds like I should buy them and try them and not be totally surprized if I do need spacers.

Anybody any experience with fitment.info? Aluminum spacers dont sound very strong but if they are only 1" or so and fastened to the main hub anyway, I would'nt think it would matter?

 

[Rob-D]

I have 2" fender to sidewall clearance with these chains and ran them all last winter with no problems.

Whistlepig,
I would reverse the auto spring tensioners, the hook should face the outside so they never have the chance to dig into your tires.


Outoftractorluck,
I bought two link chains from tirechains.com. If I had to do it again I would have bought 4 link, it's way over kill. With my JD3320 I'm not hitting anything with 2" clearance on the inside on my R4's by the way.

Rob

 

[JB4310]

Whistlepig,
I bought two link chains from tirechains.com. If I had to do it again I would have bought 4 link, it's way over kill. With my JD3320 I'm not hitting anything with 2" clearance on the inside on my R4's by the way.

Rob

Yeah but if you drove 4 links on a hard surface the bumping would convince you to stay with the 2 link for the better ride.

I like whistlepigs, those look like they would be smooth as well.

JB

 

[Chilly807]

I like whistlepigs, those look like they would be smooth as well.

JB

I have the same chains, mine are branded as Norse Super Tractor, I think his are Acquiline Talons, both made by Tellefsdal. They ARE smooth as silk on hard surfaces, and give great traction. Bad for paved driveways if you're inclined to spin them.

I run mine quite loose in comparison, and they have performed very well over the 2 years I've had them. I use them on everything from a gravel driveway to forestry work.

Sean

 

[Rob-D]

Yeah but if you drove 4 links on a hard surface the bumping would convince you to stay with the 2 link for the better ride.

I like whistlepigs, those look like they would be smooth as well.

JB

Good point, that's what the guy from tirechains.com told me. The 4 link will beat you to death.
Rob

 

[RoyJackson]

Whistlepig,
I would reverse the auto spring tensioners, the hook should face the outside so they never have the chance to dig into your tires.

Actually, that pic is from last year...I remember another TBNer posting the same thing you just wrote

Outoftractorluck,
I bought two link chains from tirechains.com. If I had to do it again I would have bought 4 link, it's way over kill. With my JD3320 I'm not hitting anything with 2" clearance on the inside on my R4's by the way.

Rob

I went with the 4 link chains...the ride isn't bad (but maybe my butt has calluses) but I don't run on pavement except for clearing out the road in front of my drive.

 

[Rob-D]

Actually, that pic is from last year...I remember another TBNer posting the same thing you just wrote




I went with the 4 link chains...the ride isn't bad (but maybe my butt has calluses) but I don't run on pavement except for clearing out the road in front of my drive.

Roy,
I think if I had to do it again I would use the 4 link chain. I'm just learning how to put them on and take them off. The first chain took me a lot longer than the second one. What I did on the second chain was lift the tractor on the BH stabilizers and lay the chain over the top of the tire. Then I went under the tractor and hooked the links together, inside first.
I do run down the road in the winter to plow my friend next door so maybe the 2 link might show its benefit then or maybe I'll just remove some of the links to get the chains on faster in the fall after the gardens are done.

Rob

 

[Chilly807]

Tellefsdal suggests tying a short rope across the tire between the inner and outer side chains, loop the rope over the tread lugs, then drive the tractor ahead so it pulls the chain on.

I jack up one side and do the same thing, rotating the tire by hand. Once you have the chain in place, it's easy to work out any slack and put the joiners (boomers) in place.

Sean

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy,
I think if I had to do it again I would use the 4 link chain. I'm just learning how to put them on and take them off. The first chain took me a lot longer than the second one. What I did on the second chain was lift the tractor on the BH stabilizers and lay the chain over the top of the tire. Then I went under the tractor and hooked the links together, inside first.
I do run down the road in the winter to plow my friend next door so maybe the 2 link might show its benefit then or maybe I'll just remove some of the links to get the chains on faster in the fall after the gardens are done.

Rob

The 4 link chains are a lot lighter!! Arrabil (remember him?) had 2 links chains for his 4200...seriously heavy!!! A good 30-40 lbs heavier then the 4 link types
First time I ever installed chains was last year. I just laid them out and backed the tractor over them, then lifted one end over the tire and hooked the other end (inside first). Biggest hassle was untangling the chains to lay them out.
My turfs are 41-14-20's. If the tires were any bigger then they are, I'd use a modification of what Chilly807 wrote. Of course, turfs don't have deep lugs.
Speaking of turfs, I was surprised how well they did in the snow when I plowed this morning...almost no spinning. Of course, I did have 600 lbs (or so) weight on the 3PH.

 

[whistlepig]

Whistlepig,
I would reverse the auto spring tensioners, the hook should face the outside so they never have the chance to dig into your tires.


Outoftractorluck,
I bought two link chains from tirechains.com. If I had to do it again I would have bought 4 link, it's way over kill. With my JD3320 I'm not hitting anything with 2" clearance on the inside on my R4's by the way.

Rob

I posted these pictures last year and was advised to turn the hooks around. It was good advice and I reversed the hooks.

 

[whistlepig]

I have the same chains, mine are branded as Norse Super Tractor, I think his are Acquiline Talons, both made by Tellefsdal. They ARE smooth as silk on hard surfaces, and give great traction. Bad for paved driveways if you're inclined to spin them.

I run mine quite loose in comparison, and they have performed very well over the 2 years I've had them. I use them on everything from a gravel driveway to forestry work.

Sean

These are Aquiline Talons. They are almost identical to the Tellefsdal chains except the cross link set up is a little different on the Tellefsdal. These ride very well because there are no gaps in the chain to cause a bumpy ride.

 

[outoftractorluck]

Hate to break up a great dicussion but Aluminum spacers -any good? Any experience with fitment.info? advertising on this site?

 

[whistlepig]

I did several searches on this forum and could not come up with anything on Fitment.info spacers. I searched "aluminum spacers" and came up with several posts on Bro-Tek aluminum spacers. The prices of the Fitment.info spacers seem remarkably cheaper than what I have seen others pay for spacers. Give Fitment.info a call and see what they say.