Wanting first impact wrench

[SPYDERLK]

And as long as your power aint out and you air compressor is on, you never run out of juice in that IR 2131

I think that is a similar to the 2135???

I really wish I knew what mine (2135TI) was actually rated at. Sometimes I see them listed AT 1000ft-lbs, sometimes 800ft-lbs, sometimes the list them at "over 700" etc.

I do thin the owners manual list it @ 780 reverse and 600 forward and something like 1000 peak??? Who knows

I think The CP2.0 Turbo is anther one with a high rating, as well as aircat????I think

I dont think a 1/2 inch square piece of supersteel will handle 1000ftlb hammering. Im thinking the ones that say 1000 actually say that they will loosen a nut tightened to 1000 ftlb -- and when it comes to the nitty gritty it only can do it on coarse thread.
larry

 

[Bird]

And as long as your power aint out and you air compressor is on, you never run out of juice in that IR 2131

I think that is a similar to the 2135???

I only had to repair about a dozen IR2131 impacts, but the first time I ever got one in for repair (August, 1998), I couldn't believe it. A plastic impact wrench?:laughing: But my brother sold several of them to diesel mechanics because they were powerful enough that they could frequently use that instead of going to their much heavier 3/4" impact. Personally, I don't like the tilt valve and the fact that I had to buy an entire "kit" to replace one instead of just the one broken part. And that little divider between the forward/reverse buttons sometimes comes out. If you lose it, you'll probably have to buy a new housing, but if you don't lose it, you can simply superglue it back in.

The really odd thing is that Ingersoll has a special tool for removing the throttle valve, but in looking at a picture of that tool, I figured I could make one, and did. However, I also learned that a small screwdriver works even better.:laughing:

 

[5030]

Daryl, I think now we're just taling about opinions or personal preference. You think leaving a compressor on the pallet is not the proper way while I know people in the business who say it is the proper way. You think leaving it on the pallet looks tacky; I think it looks sensible. Now in a big shop that you know isn't going to change, never need to be moved for any reason, including if you sell the property, then I'll agree that your way is just fine, although I see no advantage to it. Of course, whether mounted to the floor or left on the pallet, if you're going to use any rigid piping, I'd want a flexible connection from the compressor outlet to the rigid pipe. Personally, I used a rubber hose.

My current compressor is an upright 30 gallon portable, although it's never moved. But the prior owners of this place were into woodworking and there are a couple of bolts sticking up out of the concrete floor. I'd rather they weren't there, but located where they are isn't a real problem. Maybe that's the reason those darned bolts are there. They may have had an air compressor and didn't leave it on the pallet as they should have.:laughing:

I agree to a point and that point is safety for me, at least in my enviroment. I have employees and consequently, I have to abide by OSHA regulations and workplace safety requirements and compressors on pallets/skids while operating are inherently unsafe. That's not to say that it won't work because it will. I'm saying it's not accpeted workplace procedure.

The other advantage of mounting a compressor on isolation pads is it mitigates all the mechanical vibration the compressor generates and reciprocating compressors shake. It's part of their mechanical makeup.

Whatever method of securing a compressor, by pallet or to the floor, some device needs to be added between the compressor outlet and the hard piping, whether it's a rubber hose or a braided steel isolator. In my situation with continuous run/intermittent unload, my outlet temperature at peak demand can be high so I use a metal braided isolator between the compressor and the dryer and between the dryer and the trunk line. They aren't expensive and allow for thermal expansion and contraction which happens because there is a wide variance of compressed air temperatures dependent on load.

Compressor securement goes a bit farther...read on...

Interestingly, last week I witnessed an explosion in the air piping of a rotary (Sullair). The rotary was delivering air at 135psi to a 250 gallon vertical receiver and the hard line was coupled directly to the receiver, no isolator.

The receiver was accidently bumped by a hi-lo and the line fractured at the coupler and exploded, blowing shrapnel from the fractured coupler and the nipple that connected the couple to the trunk line. The force ripped the piping from the strut hangars overhead for 50 feet. The trunk line was 1.75" in diameter, schedule 60 steel pipe.

Accidents happen in industrial settings. If there had been an isolator, the slight bump would have been absorbed and the coupler never would have fractured. If the receiver was on a pallet, the force of the expelling air would probably have made it (receiver) a missle.

As it was, no one got hurt but the hi-lo driver pooped his pants I believe.

When you containan amount of compressed air at elevated pressure, you contain quite a bit of stored energy..... letting it go all at once can be deadly.

I got to watch it unfold from a distance.

 

[Bird]

Daryl, in your situation, I agree with you. There are times when they do need to be bolted to the floor.

 

[5030]

Daryl, in your situation, I agree with you. There are times when they do need to be bolted to the floor.

We do a lot of welding here as well. Mig, TIG, SMAW Spray Transfer. even OA. I have lots of bottles filled and unfilled with various gasses, Nitrogen, Argon, Tri-Mix, 75-25, Oxygen and Acetylene. I keep the full ones chained to the wall outside and the empties chained to the wall as well. The welders have the bottles secured to their respective carriages.

You look at a bottle of compressed gas and it appears to be pretty harmless but if the top somehow gets broke off or they get overheated and the plug lets go, they turn into missles. That compressor receiver is a missle too....

One of my acquaintances works at a steel mill on the Detroit river. During lunch break for fun, they would take oxygen bottles laid on the ground with the bottom pointed at the river and break off the top. He told me they would almost cross to Canada. Must have been a sight.

 

[Bird]

You look at a bottle of compressed gas and it appears to be pretty harmless but if the top somehow gets broke off or they get overheated and the plug lets go, they turn into missles.

Yep, have you ever actually seen that happen? it's spectacular. I guess it was 1964 or '65 when we had a fire in the National Cylinder Gas place in Dallas. The firemen were lying in the borrow ditch in front of the place spraying water on the building. I was a little farther off, watching around the corner of another building. One explosion sent a "mushroom" up that looked like a miniature atomic explosion. And bottles came out of there like rockets. One cut the power line almost over my head without even slowing down.

 

[puckgrinder85]

That IR pictured on the first page is a good one, very light and powerful. My father has one (we are both professional mechanics) and I have a snap on. They both work well but his is def. lighter..

 

[SPYDERLK]

No starrett?? Brown&Sharpe?? Fowler?? Lufkin? Tesa?

Good names, but Ive got a story. I have a set of Ultra Precision Starrett parallels. From 1/2 to 2" by the sixteenth. Each // is marked Starrett Ultra Precision with the size laser etched. Theyre all 0.003" undersize. ... Precisely
larry

 

[LD1]

Good names, but Ive got a story. I have a set of Ultra Precision Starrett parallels. From 1/2 to 2" by the sixteenth. Each // is marked Starrett Ultra Precision with the size laser etched. Theyre all 0.003" undersize. ... Precisely
larry

kinda odd that they are all Exactally the same undersized.:confused2: It is a wonder they got past quality control

 

[Ruark]

Remember that a bigger compressor needs a 220V outlet, which you may or may not have, and you may or may not be able to explain the electric bill hike to your wife, depending on how much it runs.

Also, be VERY careful about tightening nuts and bolts with that thing. Even a cheap one will get them so tight they'll break off or you'll have to break them to get them off later. I learned this the hard way when doing a tire rotation on my wife's car... :confused2:

 

[lostcause]

Remember that a bigger compressor needs a 220V outlet, which you may or may not have, and you may or may not be able to explain the electric bill hike to your wife, depending on how much it runs.

Also, be VERY careful about tightening nuts and bolts with that thing. Even a cheap one will get them so tight they'll break off or you'll have to break them to get them off later. I learned this the hard way when doing a tire rotation on my wife's car... :confused2:

torque sticks, torque limit extensions, etc. they're you're friend for frequent tire changes. sometimes you can get lucky and buy one in the size/strength you want on ebay for a cheap price. if you have multiple vehicles it may be worth the $50-$100 for a set of varying sizes.

edit: oh yeah. got sidetracked. ir2135 for 1/2" and ir 2115 for 3/8" i love the 2115 for dismantling smaller stuff and getting in tight areas.

 

[Ruark]

torque sticks, torque limit extensions, etc. they're you're friend for frequent tire changes

Never heard of torque limiting extensions. Checked it out, and that's exactly what I need. Thanks for the piece of education!