Wanting first impact wrench

[dstig1]

Anyone ever try to take the crank bolt off a 3.0 SHO engine? Or worse yet, a weenie little 1.6l I4 Honda? Good gawd they're on there to beat the band. I found time is your friend. Keep pounding at it even with a good impact wrench, sometimes up to 15-20 min of pounding - with breaks to let the compressor recover. But then I fixed that with a much bigger 2-stage compressor. I don't run out of air anymore

But then I've also found that some things just work better with a breaker bar. Sometimes the slow steady pull will loosen something the impact won't. It pays to have choices. My IR 2135TI is great - much lighter than the old 231 IR and more power. But sometimes the 24" breaker bar is the solution. We won't get into cheaters...

 

[deereman75]

But sometimes the 24" breaker bar is the solution. We won't get into cheaters...

Whats wrong with a 5 foot snipe?

 

[5030]

It amazes me that every picture I see of a compressor, shows the compressor still mounted to the shipping pallet instead of properly sitting on the concrete floor, on machinery pads.

 

[wedge40]

It amazes me that every picture I see of a compressor, shows the compressor still mounted to the shipping pallet instead of properly sitting on the concrete floor, on machinery pads.

There was long conversation about this on here a while back.. Most people leave them on the pallet and after many years of use have never had any problems. I haven't got a large compressor yet, so I dont know the answer to this, but does the instructions say you must bolt it to the cement. Seems to me the wood in the pallet would absorb some of the vibration.

Wedge

 

[deereman75]

I wish my compressor was as big as those ones, mine is "only" 220v 3hp (quite good for someone who is 14 though)

 

[Bird]

It amazes me that every picture I see of a compressor, shows the compressor still mounted to the shipping pallet instead of properly sitting on the concrete floor, on machinery pads.

I guess it depends on who is right when you say "properly.":laughing: When I bought a 60 gallon compressor from a business that specializes in building, selling, and servicing compressors and associated accessories, they specifically recommended leaving it on the pallet. And in my opinion, as with the experts I spoke with, they are "properly" sitting on the pallet.:laughing:

I cannot imagine any advantage to removing one from the pallet to mount it to the concrete unless you have a problem with vibration causing it to move around. Mine never moved at all. And one big advantage to leaving it on the pallet is in case you ever have to move it. In my case, when I sold the farm, the realtor bought the compressor; sure glad it was still on the pallet.

 

[Whatswrong]

Tell me I'm nuts but this is compact tracor forum if the 1/2 inch won't do it you need a swing handle and a snipe to loosen it and retorque it or you guys have a lot more money than I have .I believe I have 1.25 " socket from Sears,that is a fair size. Just my 2 cents.

 

[RobertBrown]

I have used several name brand air impact wrenches over the years. Got tired of dragging the air hose around and went with an 18 volt Milwaukee model 2662-22 M18.

This thing has all the torque I could ask for. Very portable.

Just sayin....

I've used this an found it to be quite adequate and a lot more convienent.
I guess I'm wondering why you would need a 3/4" Impact wrench? Are you changing semi truck wheels?

 

[orezok]

Anyone ever try to take the crank bolt off a 3.0 SHO engine? Or worse yet, a weenie little 1.6l I4 Honda? Good gawd they're on there to beat the band. I found time is your friend. Keep pounding at it even with a good impact wrench, sometimes up to 15-20 min of pounding - with breaks to let the compressor recover. But then I fixed that with a much bigger 2-stage compressor. I don't run out of air anymore

But then I've also found that some things just work better with a breaker bar. Sometimes the slow steady pull will loosen something the impact won't. It pays to have choices. My IR 2135TI is great - much lighter than the old 231 IR and more power. But sometimes the 24" breaker bar is the solution. We won't get into cheaters...

Years back, I wanted to change the timing belt on my Acura (nee Honda engine). Got out the IR2131 and tried to spin the nit on the dampener off and it just sat there and rattled. I decided that the torque was not being transmitted as the dampener rotated slightly with each hit thereby reducing the force. I built a steel "strap" wrench with a bolt to tighten it and a bar to brace against the ground to keep it from turning.

I hit it again and again with the IR and it refused to budge. Got out the 24" breaker bar and put a 4' cheater on and even with a little jumping on the bar, it would not budge. Strap wrench would slip.

The next day I went down to the bus barn and borrowed a 3/4" gun they use for bus maintenance. Put it on the nut and I swear I heard one click and the nut spun off.

Sometimes there is only one right tool for the job.

 

[wedge40]

The next day I went down to the bus barn and borrowed a 3/4" gun they use for bus maintenance. Put it on the nut and I swear I heard one click and the nut spun off.

Sometimes there is only one right tool for the job.

Thats because like the jar lid, you had loosened the day before.

Wedge

 

[LD1]

I guess I'm wondering why you would need a 3/4" Impact wrench? Are you changing semi truck wheels?

I dont have a 3/4", but I do have the 2135TiMax, which is almost as good as a 3/4" gun. And I can think of several things CUT related that would require an gun more powerfull than a cordless, like a stout 1/2" or 3/4" drive.

Like older Bushhog blades and stump-jumper nuts/bolts

Older implement 3PH pins

Nut on the 2-5/16 ball in my hitch I tow the tractor with.

There have been times when even my 2135 has let me down. but usually when it does, it requires at least a 4' cheater pipe. I cannot imagine the # of times that a little ~250ft-lb cordless would let me down.

 

[ModMech]

Im in the planning phase of purchasing my first impact wrench. I want a good one made in the USA. Im considering an Ingersoll Rand. I dont know much about impact wrenches and dont know whether to get a 1/2 or 3/4.

1/2" drive is ALL you will need unless you are swinging tires on heavy trucks or removing bolts with heads larger than 1.25".

What will a 3/4" do that a 1/2" will not.

Break anything that is stuck......

When do you need the added "power" of a 3/4?

Removing 3/4" and LARGER bolts that are stuck/rusted. Note: that is THREAD diameter, not "hex" diameter.

Also, what is the upper limit "nut size" that can be had in a 1/2 " socket.

That is a loaded question. For a GOOD wrench (IR231) and decent threads, they will do 1.5" ok but not "fast". Anything smaller than 7/8" "nut size" is a walk in the park for them.

I have been using air tools for 25+ years, professionally as a HD mechanic and on heavy equipment. One REALLY good 1/2" is all most people will ever need or even want. There is nothing on a hobby farm you can't fix with a good 1/2" impact, unless you need a 10 Ton jack as well.

I have an IR 231 with the extended anvil for use on "Dayton" type (spoke) truck wheels, it has changed THOUSANDS of tires and has only been tuned up once in 15 years. It is, to this day, THE wrench I grab out of the box for almost everything bigger than a 3/8" diameter bolt (9/16" socket).

I also own the Composite version of it's big brother, the 2141 and that monster will BREAK anything that the 231 cannot loosen, this is not always a good thing It also works the compressor to death, even with a 1/2" hose.

 

[5030]

John...

You ought to try running my Gardner Denver Belly Bumper with coring bits. It takes every bit of my 175psi/30cfm IMC with 1" jackhammer hose....

 

[dstig1]

Yep, a very common method is leaving it on the pallet. You should not tightly secure a compressor to the floor as it needs to expand and contract freely as it will with pressure changes. The pallet provides enough give to allow for that. If you secure it to the floor you need to tighten down one bolt and leave the others snug but not tight so it can move a bit. It is possible to crack a foot or even the tank if the unit is over-constrained. In my case, the pallet allowed me to move it into place easily and will allow me to move it to our new house easily, when we get there.

And the manufacturer I bought it from said this is perfectly acceptable too.

 

[crazyal]

My 60 gallon Speedair was bolted to the cement, never again. The bottom of the tank started rusting like crazy. After removing the rust, making sure the metal is sound, and painting it I now have it mounted about 8 feet up out of the way.

The reason for removing them from the shipping pallet is that the vertical ones are top heavy. If not bolted down they can fall over very easily, I've seen people pull on the air hose and knock them over. Plus if you live in earthquake country you would not want to find it on it's side.

 

[crazyal]

Yep, a very common method is leaving it on the pallet. You should not tightly secure a compressor to the floor as it needs to expand and contract freely as it will with pressure changes. The pallet provides enough give to allow for that. If you secure it to the floor you need to tighten down one bolt and leave the others snug but not tight so it can move a bit. It is possible to crack a foot or even the tank if the unit is over-constrained. In my case, the pallet allowed me to move it into place easily and will allow me to move it to our new house easily, when we get there.

And the manufacturer I bought it from said this is perfectly acceptable too.

I have my compressor mounted to a wood frame with rubber isolators between the legs and the wood. The through bolts have nylon lock nuts on the bottom and are only tightened up just beyond finger tight.

 

[5030]

The proper way actually is to mount the compressor on machinery isolation pads (under each foot) and physically isolate the air piping from the outlet with a steel braided isolator. That allows the hard piping to be rigid but the thermal expansion and contraction as well as the inherent vibration from the compressor itself to be isolated from the hard line.

I guess that leaving a compressor on a shipping pallet is acceptable but it looks tacky. My unit is on the concrete shop floor, on pads and isolated from the dryer.

 

[Bird]

Daryl, I think now we're just taling about opinions or personal preference. You think leaving a compressor on the pallet is not the proper way while I know people in the business who say it is the proper way. You think leaving it on the pallet looks tacky; I think it looks sensible. Now in a big shop that you know isn't going to change, never need to be moved for any reason, including if you sell the property, then I'll agree that your way is just fine, although I see no advantage to it. Of course, whether mounted to the floor or left on the pallet, if you're going to use any rigid piping, I'd want a flexible connection from the compressor outlet to the rigid pipe. Personally, I used a rubber hose.

My current compressor is an upright 30 gallon portable, although it's never moved. But the prior owners of this place were into woodworking and there are a couple of bolts sticking up out of the concrete floor. I'd rather they weren't there, but located where they are isn't a real problem. Maybe that's the reason those darned bolts are there. They may have had an air compressor and didn't leave it on the pallet as they should have.:laughing: