Oil & Fuel Starting after fuel filter replacement

[MHarryE]

My newer Kubota (newer meaning purchased new in April) has a bleed vent on top of the filter housing. Sounds like they made an improvement since the older models. I was 8 miles from home the other day when my panel read low fuel. I was about 1/2 mile from home when I ran out and had to call my wife to bring fuel and the manual. I thought I would have a big problem but it started quickly, then stopped. Started quickly again, sputtered a few seconds, and then ran smooth. It said to close the bleed valve after 30 seconds so I did and it was run fine ever since. Lesson learned - the gauge on my tractor means empty when it says empty, and doesn't give a lot of reserve like all of my other vehicles.

Different engines have different bleed techniques. The newest common rail systems with extremely high pressure are generally self priming. I know on some of the engines you are required to replace any of the injector lines if you take them loose because they will never reseal for the 30,000 psi seen on some of the new systems. I wonder what will happen on those systems in 30 years when the manuals have been eaten by mice and somebody has to figure out how to bleed a system.

 

[Tx Jim]

An over the road truck driver taught me a lesson on filling fuel filter upon replacement of fuel filter to just fill the filter or filters with trans fluid. It's worked for me since the 1970's. Pouring trans oil out of a qt bottle into a filter is much easier than diesel out of a can.

 

[SalisburySenior]

SUCCESS! I was only able to bleed 4 of the Kubota recommended 7 places because of congestion around the engine, but that was enough to get the engine started again.

 

[bironacad]

Good stuff my engine is the same for getting at if there was no loader it would be easier access, go figure.

 

[leonz]

My newer Kubota (newer meaning purchased new in April) has a bleed vent on top of the filter housing. Sounds like they made an improvement since the older models. I was 8 miles from home the other day when my panel read low fuel. I was about 1/2 mile from home when I ran out and had to call my wife to bring fuel and the manual. I thought I would have a big problem but it started quickly, then stopped. Started quickly again, sputtered a few seconds, and then ran smooth. It said to close the bleed valve after 30 seconds so I did and it was run fine ever since. Lesson learned - the gauge on my tractor means empty when it says empty, and doesn't give a lot of reserve like all of my other vehicles.

Different engines have different bleed techniques. The newest common rail systems with extremely high pressure are generally self priming. I know on some of the engines you are required to replace any of the injector lines if you take them loose because they will never reseal for the 30,000 psi seen on some of the new systems. I wonder what will happen on those systems in 30 years when the manuals have been eaten by mice and somebody has to figure out how to bleed a system.

All the more reason for Kubota to buy the AVCO/Duetz engine patents and start making air coolled diesels as they are the least troublesome to
own and operate.

 

[JoeL4330]

I am guessing that your tank is above your filter and pump, so getting fuel to it is not problem, but you might file away a solution I came up with on my VW Jetta TDI: rather than try to draw a vacuum from the tank to the filter, I used a shop vacuum in reverse--with a rag around it to seal it--and then gently pressurized the fuel tank, which sent a good flow of diesel up to the filter.

Should also mention that I had an out-of-fuel condition on my Kubota but I knew to immediately shut it down and not try to restart a few time (despite the temptation) until I refilled the tank...and, it self-primed.

Another time, my dealer-mechanic changed the filter and lost the prime and it required all the tricks mentioned above: cracking the injectors and opening the bleed valve and cranking away a number of times ...REMEMBER not to crank the starter continuously for too long a time...honoring the recommended duty-cycle is the key to not burning out the starter motor

 

[SalisburySenior]

I am guessing that your tank is above your filter and pump, so getting fuel to it is not problem, but you might file away a solution I came up with on my VW Jetta TDI: rather than try to draw a vacuum from the tank to the filter, I used a shop vacuum in reverse--with a rag around it to seal it--and then gently pressurized the fuel tank, which sent a good flow of diesel up to the filter.

Should also mention that I had an out-of-fuel condition on my Kubota but I knew to immediately shut it down and not try to restart a few time (despite the temptation) until I refilled the tank...and, it self-primed.

Another time, my dealer-mechanic changed the filter and lost the prime and it required all the tricks mentioned above: cracking the injectors and opening the bleed valve and cranking away a number of times ...REMEMBER not to crank the starter continuously for too long a time...honoring the recommended duty-cycle is the key to not burning out the starter motor

Joel - Your are correct, the tank is above the pump and filter. The shop vacuum in reverse is certainly one way to move the fuel to the filter. The owner's manual I have recommends pressing on the lever on the fuel pump to manually pump diesel to the filter and beyond (with vents cracked). It seemed to work.

I agree on not trying to restart the engine without first purging the air after changing the fuel filter. Unfortunately I learned the hard way and did try to start the engine right after installing the new filter. The engine started and ran for about three seconds and then quit. I just made my purging job a little more difficult.