Building a retaining wall...by hand.

[N80]

I recently moved into my grandmother's house in town. The back yard is long and narrow and has three terraces. The top terrace is the largest and is probably 4 feet higher than the top of the one below it, the next one is maybe 2-3 feet high. The bottom one is pretty much just a small slope. Each one slopes down to the next.

I would like to build a retaining wall for the top two terraces. My plan would be to start at the bottom of the slope, build the wall up to the right height and fill it in. I would like to use pre-fab cement landscape blocks.

The problems are: 1) I've never done this before and do not know what I'm doing and I don't want this thing to be falling over in a year. 2) I will have to do it by hand. There is no good access for my tractor into this back yard. Stone and fill dirt will have to be dumped in the driveway and taken back by hand/wheel barrow. A very small skid steer might fit back there. 3) I will need to build a set of stairs going down for both terrace....but I'll worry about that later.

On the positive side, there is no time limit for this. It could be a long term project.

Has anyone done such a thing themselves? Any tips or pointers? Any resources I need to look up?

I'm very much in the planning/feasibility stage with this at this point. If it looks too daunting I'll just save money for a while and get a pro to do it.

 

[massey990]

I don't want this thing to be falling over in a year

Don't build it plumb, build it so it angles back into the slope. Start low enough to prevent undermining.

 

[turnkey4099]

I recently moved into my grandmother's house in town. The back yard is long and narrow and has three terraces. The top terrace is the largest and is probably 4 feet higher than the top of the one below it, the next one is maybe 2-3 feet high. The bottom one is pretty much just a small slope. Each one slopes down to the next.

I would like to build a retaining wall for the top two terraces. My plan would be to start at the bottom of the slope, build the wall up to the right height and fill it in. I would like to use pre-fab cement landscape blocks.

The problems are: 1) I've never done this before and do not know what I'm doing and I don't want this thing to be falling over in a year. 2) I will have to do it by hand. There is no good access for my tractor into this back yard. Stone and fill dirt will have to be dumped in the driveway and taken back by hand/wheel barrow. A very small skid steer might fit back there. 3) I will need to build a set of stairs going down for both terrace....but I'll worry about that later.

On the positive side, there is no time limit for this. It could be a long term project.

Has anyone done such a thing themselves? Any tips or pointers? Any resources I need to look up?

I'm very much in the planning/feasibility stage with this at this point. If it looks too daunting I'll just save money for a while and get a pro to do it.

Research the project before starting. Perhaps a stop at the dealers selling those blocks will yield a "how-to manual".

Lots and lots of labor. I spent a couple years building 300' of retaining wall that varied from 5' down to 1' using RR ties.

Harry K

 

[AchingBack]

George here is the most important part of retaining wall building. Installing a deadman.
Retaining wall - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1118.html

 

[forgeblast]

Picture would help. I have done the prefab brick retaining wall thing.
1. they are set up to set back, so you dont have to worry about doing it yourself. The pin system is just stacking your block and dropping a pin down, some are pinless.
2. The base is your most important item, get that right your just stacking big heavy legos.
(the base goes to your frost line, and then use compacted modified fill to create a level base). Put a drain tile behind your wall and slope to where you want it to drain to. back fill with as much gravel as you can to avoid the slope pushing on the wall.
3. plan and do your walkway at the same time. The bricks being modular lend themselves to stairs.
4. capstones can be cut with a diamond blade in an angle grider(so can the blocks). Then you just use block adhesive to hold them(the caps) in place.
5. think low voltage lighting, you may want to run that when you do it so you can light up the stairs. Also will you flatten an area for planting, patio? etc.
6. Take your measurements to the brick place and they will help you out they also have install guides. Take a walk and look at the colors too, lots of choices.

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. Great advice. I'll try to get some pictures posted later today.

I did a little reading and some of the stone companies make a mesh called geo-grid which you put down in layers under and behind the stone and then fill on top of it to help diffuse pressure on the wall. This sounds like a good idea to me.

In looking at this project it probably would make sense for me to do the low wall first since this will be my first attempt at this sort of thing. It would also prevent me from having to hual material over the new top wall if it was done first.

 

[RobertN]

Here is one I did. Has step. Part of wall is built in to hill, part of it stands out from the wall. Spent a lot of time with a transit getting everything true and level. http://webs.directcon.net/renielsen/patio.html

- Go to the Keystone website. They have all kinds of info on how to PROPERLY build walls. Here is Keystone Country Manor; Keystone has lots of other block styles on thier site though...
http://www.keystonewalls.com/media/Construction_details/CM_Reinforced.pdf
http://www.keystonewalls.com/media/CADD_details/cadd_pdfs.pdfs/KS_CM.detail.pdf
http://www.keystonewalls.com/media/Literature/CMtech.mktg.pdf

- There should be a base of level compacted gravel or DG 6-12" deep under the the first course. The foundation is the most important part of the wall.

- For a 3' tall wall, your first block course will be mostly below grade. No setting the blocks on top of the ground; they'll shift.

- The wall should have a drain pipe near the base

- There should be 12" of drain rock behind the wall. The dirt should only touch the top 4-6" of the wall.

- I use a 2' and 6' level, a string line, and a transit if needed. Always double check level of the base, and then keep checking as you start your courses of block. If you get the base level, the rest is easy. If you don't, well, just do it right and make sure your base is really level...

- Keystone Legacy, and similar products from other companies are nice blocks, but they look best in commercial applications. Look at some of the other blocks, like the Country Manor by Keystone(or other companies). They look SOOOOOO much better in a residential environment.

- Bobcat has a skidsteer that is only 36" wide; I have rented those before because of very limited access...

It cost more and takes more time to build a wall properly. But the results are worth it.

Has anyone done such a thing themselves? Any tips or pointers? Any resources I need to look up?

 

[RobertN]

Geogrid is usually only used on tall walls. Walls less than 3 or 4 feet tall do not need it typically.

Check local regs; if you have to go over 3-4' tall, it usually requires an engineered drawings ect. That is why most block companies make wall supplies for homeowners, to work up to 3' tall...

There are setbacks between wall too. Typical 2:1. If you have a 3' wall, your next wall should be 6' back. I think that is shown in some of the Keystone links I posted.

I did a little reading and some of the stone companies make a mesh called geo-grid which you put down in layers under and behind the stone and then fill on top of it to help diffuse pressure on the wall. This sounds like a good idea to me.

In looking at this project it probably would make sense for me to do the low wall first since this will be my first attempt at this sort of thing. It would also prevent me from having to hual material over the new top wall if it was done first.

 

[N80]

Thanks for those links Robert, those are excellent.

 

[RobertN]

If you poke around the Keystone site, you'll find lots more info too.

There are a lot of companies that make block; a lot of them are regional; shipping gets expensive...

Thanks for those links Robert, those are excellent.

 

[LoveTheSmellofDiesel]

Make sure to compact material behind wall at no more than 8" of back fill at a time. Otherwise it will settle and bad things start to happen. All good links!

 

[N80]

Here are a couple of pics. This one is from the bottom of the second terrace looking upward. The wide angle lens makes the second terrace look larger than the top one but it is not:

This one is looking up the two sets of stairs:

I underestimated the height of the first terrace. It is probably at least 4.5 feet high. The second one is probably about 3 feet high. Both would be about 40 feet long.

The first terrace might be biting off more than I can chew. But what has me really concerned is just the cost of back fill material. I know the stones will be way more but I kind of figured that. Just eyeballing the back fill volume seems pretty daunting.

 

[dmccarty]

What Robert and others have said.

I built a small retaining wall to level out some land for our "barn." I read the manual/instructions per the maker of the blocks I bought. My wall is only 14-30 inches tall.

The blocks I use have a ridge on the back so that as they are stacked the will move back into the hill. I back filled with ABC road base and nothing has moved in 6 years.

The blocks are heavy though and I re-injured my back.

The hard part is the first layer. That has to be level. Period. Getting it level is the hard part. Then it goes up really fast.

Later,
Dan

 

[kenmac]

I built 1 by hand a few years ago.. There's alot of difference in landscape block & retaining wall block. I used this product. http://geostone.com/wallpage1.htm
landscape isn't heavy enough for a retaining wall. My highest point of the wall is 6' The lowest row of block that I used weight 110 # each. the other smaller block weight 85# ea. This was what the people at geostone recommended I use

 

[RobertN]

Landscaping block will make a fine retaining wall up to 3' depending on the type. See my previous post... Most walls over 3' have to be engineered. They will include deeper bases, geo-fabric, and typically larger blocks. Keystone Country Manor is a rally nice looking pinned block syste. It will make walls well over 36", if engineered properly.

There are a lot of variations; some block is only good for 18" walls, some for 36". Some that will work for 36" walls will also work for taller walls, with the proper foundation, fabrics, and engineering. Keystone Country Manor for example, is a really nice looking pinned block system. It will make walls well over 36", if engineered properly.

I built 1 by hand a few years ago.. There's alot of difference in landscape block & retaining wall block. I used this product. Retaining Walls - GeoStone
landscape isn't heavy enough for a retaining wall. My highest point of the wall is 6' The lowest row of block that I used weight 110 # each. the other smaller block weight 85# ea. This was what the people at geostone recommended I use

 

[kco]

I realise this isn't likely suitable for your application but I am posting some pictures of my retaining wall that I had built to replace a rotten landscape tie wall that was ready to collapse. We built the new wall in front of the old one using boulders dug from the property. The small wall goes from about 2' to 4.5' high. The longer wall is about 6.5' high by the yellow bush.

I built the steps using flat rocks I found elsewhere.

 

[kenmac]

GEO GRID wasn't required for my wall at 6' or engineered as per the block manufacture. I'm no expert by any means. I'm an HVAC/Plumbing guy. I did ask alot of questions ( from people that make the block) b-4 I built the wall

 

[forgeblast]

To plan it out, take some spray paint and put some lines down where do you want it to start and then you can get a rough estimate on the lenght.
It looks like a great spot for the retaining walls, will make some nice usable space for you once done.

 

[Egon]

You are looking at a lot of manual labour for those two retaining walls.

Just wondering why you need the retaining walls?

That backyard looks pretty nice as is.:thumbsup:

 

[N80]

You are looking at a lot of manual labour for those two retaining walls.

I need the exercise. I'm rapidly approaching the 185 pound weakling phase. I got sand kicked on me at the beach this year!

Just wondering why you need the retaining walls?

Minor reasons. Some of the hill slopes are starting to erode a little. They are a pain to mow. And the walls would give some extra space for the top terrace which is the 'backyard'. We added a screen porch which made the top terrace a little tight.

That backyard looks pretty nice as is.:thumbsup:

The backyard is nice. Before she got real old my grandmother kept it as a garden. Lots of great plants, camelias, azaleas, hydrangeas, dog woods, perennials ect. But it has got a bit overgrown and wild.

So my wife and I are considering bringing it back as a semi-formal garden. The retaining walls would give it a bit more structure and new steps would provide better access. The current ones look kind of cool and old but they are a bit treacherous.

The local garden club has asked to help out and wants to get it up to the level where it could be on their garden tour. Their help would be primarily design and some labor....no money .

Anyway, its all just in the dream phase right now. We're pretty much tapped out on disposable funds with the renovation and a child headed to Clemson eek in a year. So whatever we do will be mostly DIY....or DIM.