New (to me) stick welder: Persistance pays off

[Ursa Major]

I have been interested in learning welding and have read many of the informative posts here. Around a year ago I got a Oxy Acetylene set up and have dabbled in that. I will continue to do more.

I've wanted a stick welder as well and decided to use the advice I've seen here regarding looking for a good used one. It took some time and I was close to purchasing new but a used one finally turned up.

I found a Lincoln AC/DC unit for a great price. I was further happy to find out that it came with some consumables and other extras. Here are some pics.

I have been reading about the different types of stick electrodes such as 7018, 6011, 6013 etc. But, some of these sticks that came with it I've not heard of before. Can anyone identify them and their specialties, if any. Also, the seller gave me some nice scrap metal that I can use to practice on.

 

[Ursa Major]

Here is a pic of some of the sticks. I also picked up some new sticks at my welding shop for both my arc and Oxy units. Sorry about the inverted pic, I was able to rotate it but it seems to invert back to original when I post it.

 

[k0ua]

Dont know anything about those electrodes, but you got at least 100 bucks worth of metal, You can try AC, but you will like DC better, IMHO. And go buy yourself a good Auto Darkening Helmet, It will help your welding tremendously, especially as a new welder. Scratching around in the dark is no fun, and the Auto-darkening helmet solves that. I highly recommend it:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[Ursa Major]

James, I nearly picked up an auto darkening helmet today. I looked at the Miller helmets and some others there. I wanted to research them a bit more but I agree with you that it may be a purchase soon down the road.

 

[cowski]

looks like you have some 7018, stainless? and cast iron rods. the 7018 look like 1/8 rods.i would set the welder on dc+ on about 130 and weld with the 7018 on some of your flat plate.millers are good helmets ,i have a jackson nexgen.on a helmet spend enough to get one with changeable batteries.the cheaper ones i have been around only last a few years ,then you have get another one.

 

[Ursa Major]

Thanks Cowski, I appreciate the input.

 

[GLyford]

Here is a pic of some of the sticks.

The 308-16 is for "18/8, 301, 302, 304, 308 grades of stainless steel." Stainless rod is sometimes used to weld dissimilar metals (like mild to stainless) too.

 

[Ursa Major]

Thanks GL, how concerned about the rods age and lack of proper storage should I be? I doubt I'll be doing any repairs/fabrication of any critical assemblies at this point, but for normal everyday stuff I hope the rods will be fine.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

That is the exact same welder that I have. I've found that I need to set it on the high end of recommended settings for best results. I like the DC arc Quality, though. If your settings are right, it's hard to stick a rod.

Learn to be patient. The biggest problem I have with my welds is that I go too fast.

I see you got a few boxes of 6013. You'll like how that welds. If you get into more critical stuff, consider 7014.

Burn both those boxes of 6013 completely up welding scrap to scrap. You'll have the hang of it by then, and you can move on to building stuff.

 

[JB4310]

Don't even bother using AC unless you learn enough to know what process requires it. Just stick to the DC. For me 7018 has been the go to rod lately.

I use to think I couldn't live without 7024 for flat work but the 7018 works just as good since I got my DC stick

Don't use that nice flat stock to just practice with, find some junk. some of those pieces are prime repair/ fab stock.

One thing I don't get about the Tombstones is the leads go into the machine, all my millers had jacks, which make it simple to change leads/ use longer leads etc. How do you do it with the Lincolns, cut and splice? or go into the machine?

JB.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...One thing I don't get about the Tombstones is the leads go into the machine, all my millers had jacks, which make it simple to change leads/ use longer leads etc. How do you do it with the Lincolns, cut and splice? or go into the machine?

JB.

I think the manual for my machine recommend putting a different end on the cable that can accept an extension. If I ever get longer leads, I'll likely just go into the machine.

 

[Shield Arc]

If I ever get longer leads, I'll likely just go into the machine.

Why not just go with Tweco connectors?
Right side of picture.

 

[hawkeye08]

My welder is on wheels and if I can't reach the material, I move the welder closer. I have 30ft extension cord for welder I can use also.

 

[Tobias Dunlap]

It looks like you've a good start on your equipment. Those lincoln cracklers are the way to go for a good low cost shop unit.
If you want an auto darkening lens. I would go to your local welding supply store and order a Rador Autolens in whatever shade you want.

I'm a professional welder and use a hood exactly like the one you have setting next to your machine. Fibre Metal hoods like that one are tough as nails and will hold up to anything you can dish out. Those hoods with an autolens are a very potent combo.

If you need any help or would like some pointers, PM me and I would be glad to help.

The best advice I can give to a beginner is practice practice practice and protect yourself.

Good welding

Toby

 

[flusher]

I have been interested in learning welding and have read many of the informative posts here. Around a year ago I got a Oxy Acetylene set up and have dabbled in that. I will continue to do more.

I've wanted a stick welder as well and decided to use the advice I've seen here regarding looking for a good used one. It took some time and I was close to purchasing new but a used one finally turned up.

I found a Lincoln AC/DC unit for a great price. I was further happy to find out that it came with some consumables and other extras. Here are some pics.

I have been reading about the different types of stick electrodes such as 7018, 6011, 6013 etc. But, some of these sticks that came with it I've not heard of before. Can anyone identify them and their specialties, if any. Also, the seller gave me some nice scrap metal that I can use to practice on.

Get yourself and autodarkening helmet--the $50 one at Northern Tool is pretty good.

Northern Industrial Solar-Powered Auto-Darkening Welding Helmet | Welding Helmets | Northern Tool + Equipment

Get 5 lb boxes of 7014 and 7024 rod 1/8" size. Run these on DC positive. These rods are called drag rods (strike the arc, angle the rod at 30 deg or so, and drag the rod along the weld line) and are good for learning stick welding. Just concentrate on moving the rod slowly along the weld line and watch the edges of the puddle to be sure you're getting good tie in with the base metal.

As you become better, you can try some of the more difficult rods like 6011 and 7018.

 

[deereman75]

very nice find, I have an AC 225, love it

 

[eastexan]

very nice find, I have an AC 225, love it

Me too. :thumbsup:

I learned how to weld on one in high school, back in the 60's.
Also learned how to use the arc torch with it to heat and braze metals. A lot of the AC welding machines came with them back then.
My friend and I made a boat out of 2 old car hoods as a project in that class. We brazed the car hood seams together and welded the two hoods and seats in using 6011.

My job for 40 years consisted of welding part of the time, using mostly DC shop welders and Miller Bobcats, Lincolns, & Hobarts on the company trucks.
But when I retired, I bought a new AC Miller Thunderbolt and have really enjoyed using it. The DC machines may run the bead a bit smoother with a little less spatter, but I don't care. And I really havent noticed a big difference between them as some claim. But, to each their own.

The AC works fine for me, but I wish the arc torch was still available for them. I have an O/A set-up, so I really don't need it. But would still like to have one.

 

[chad22]

I'm sure you'll love that lincoln. I was gonna purchase a new lincoln AC/DC 225 welder from home depot. That was until a member on here "Travelover" I think that's who it was.

Spotted me a 180 amp lincoln on craigslist for $100.00 I went not to long after and picked it up.

Been a great welder since I've had it and I haven't regretted that purchase. I'm sure I'll have this welder for the rest of my life and my kids "If I have any" will be using this one as well.

I've burned holes through some pipe and even cut some bed rail angle with it.

Chad

 

[GLyford]

how concerned about the rods age and lack of proper storage should I be? I doubt I'll be doing any repairs/fabrication of any critical assemblies at this point, but for normal everyday stuff I hope the rods will be fine.

As far as I know, for anything other than 7018, as long as they're clean and dry you're usually OK for average everyday stuff, I wouldn't stress over it much.

How do you know if they're bad? Well, if the flux coating is starting to fray and get "fluffy" looking or fall off in chunks, also if you bend a rod in the middle so the flux falls off and the metal inside under the flux is rusty. If you can't get a rod to weld right, but you grab one of the same type out of a new box and it runs fine then the old ones are probably junk. Usually, though, if they look OK and weld OK, they usually are.

The special deal with 7018 "low hydrogen" rod is that water from the air trapped in the flux cancels out the "low hydrogen" properties. The hydrogen will get trapped in the weld when you run a bead, and that causes high strength, high carbon steels to get brittle over time. Mild steel is usually not affected (much?).

So if all you're welding is mild steel and structural stuff (regular angle, channel, and tube aka "A36") then there's not much cause to worry, and 60xx or 7014 stored almost anywhere will usually be fine. If you're welding stuff up out of a lot of high carbon old mower blades, grader edges, rebar, tool steel (A1, O1, W1, ...), 4140, saw blades, old bed frames, and truck springs then you'll need to start thinking about switching to 7018 and learning about rod ovens and such...or call it "art" and not put a lot of stress on it.

Also, note that some steel has a little bit of lead & sulfur in it to make it easier to drill, cut, and such: 11L17, 11L18, 12L14, "free machining", etc. This stuff is often considered difficult or impossible to weld--but it is usually only in rods and plates, I've yet to hear of anyone making angle iron out of it.

--Glenn

 

[Ursa Major]

Thanks Glenn, appreciate the post and knowledgeable information.

I'm getting the supplies I need to add 220 service to the garage. I picked up a 50 amp circuit breaker and the outlet box.

I need to get wire and wanted to get some input on wire gauge size. I have to run about 75 to 100 feet of wire. Is 8 gauge sufficient or should I get 6? The welder is rated at 50 amps.