Rear ballast when using box blade

[Mechanos]

I'm wanting to experiment with rear ballast for added traction when using the box blade on my 955. Obviously, adding weight the box blade does nothing for traction when the BB is on the ground. My first thought was to attach a weight bracket to the drawbar, but I don't really like the idea of a lot of weight bouncing around on the drawbar... potentially cracking the transaxle housing.

I have liquid filled rear tires, but no wheel weights (which are crazy expensive). Has anyone else hung additional weight on the rear of their tractor... not using the 3pt?

 

[dsmau]

Hi Mechanos,
In my experience, using a 5ft BB on my 855 with 4wd, rear chains and loader, the engine would slow down before traction would become a problem. Of course, your 955 has many more horses but if you notice how the blade is curved on the BB, it actually pulls the rear of the tractor down quite a bit when driving forward so might actually act the same as having weight on the rear. This is why you can pull a lot more going forward than backing up. At least that's my theory
BTW, Did you get your front wheel drive-shaft in place? You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

 

[glc24]

You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

:thumbsup:

Greg

 

[Nick359]

I have a 5 foot box blade for my 755. I have ag tires no wheel weights. I don't know if they are filled, the previous owner couldn't tell me.

Two wheel drive is fine for grading the driveway. Four wheel drive is necessary for digging in dirt. I also make sure the loader is on. I saw little difference in the performance with a full or empty bucket.

My engine isn't stock, so I run out of traction before HP now.

If you want more weight, suitcase weights mid mounted off the loader frame, or some type of custom mount, might be an option for you. Last time I went to the truck pulls, one guy was cheating putting weights under his floor mats.

 

[North Country]

I don't know if they are filled, the previous owner couldn't tell me.

Drive until the valve stem is low. Press in the center of the valve with a key. Liquid=filled, air=not filled.

Or, you may not care - I suspect you don't.

 

[Nick359]

Drive until the valve stem is low. Press in the center of the valve with a key. Liquid=filled, air=not filled.

Or, you may not care - I suspect you don't.

I guess I should have figured that out. The fronts are not loaded. I had to fix both of them. I just figured I would have to take the back ones off one day and if they were heavy I would know they are loaded.

I am out of town for work, so I will be checking when I get home.

Anyways loaded or not. It doesn't pull the box blade in 2 wheel very well. You need to have 4 wheel to pull a five footer.

 

[Mechanos]

...BTW, Did you get your front wheel drive-shaft in place? You really need 4wd to use the BB in my opinion. The FEL weight also helps...

Not yet... I finally got a chance to work on the tractor tonight, though. I got the front spindle shaft seals replaced on one side done before it got dark. The other side should go faster now that I've done it once. Once I get the other side done, I'll refill the front axle and re-install the front d-shaft. Then I've try out the BB again with 4WD.

 

[Redgoatea]

I run a 6' BB on my 870 and it works like a charm. As long as I'm in 4WD. Good luck hope yours works for you.

 

[Mechanos]

Getting closer. Got the spindle shaft seals replaced in the other side last night. I'll have to say that the engineering that went into this tractor is befuddling. I find excellent design features right next to completely ignorant design features. For example, the spindle shaft seals' mating surfaces are replaceable oil seal wear sleeves.... excellent design! The worn out rod end on the steering cylinder is made onto the cylinder shaft so only way to replace the rod end is to replace the entire steering cylinder.... ignorant design!

 

[Mechanos]

Finally got the front axle back together and front d-shaft installed. Had a chance to play with the box blade breifly today after I got done mowing. I had the rippers all the way down and box set at a fairly high angle of attack. Trying to rip through some well established Kentucky 31 sod, I could still stop the tractor with 3 wheels spinning once the blade started to dig in. If I lifted up on the box blade a little, I could rip through the sod. That's about all the time I had to mess with it. I haven't had a chance yet to try it in just dirt... just the tough sod.

 

[cttractor]

Mechanos, What size is the box blade you're using? Thanks!

 

[Mechanos]

Mechanos, What size is the box blade you're using? Thanks!

It's a Frontier BB2060... 60". I have an area that I need to dig out a couple feet deep to make a parking area for a trailer. I'm trying to use the box blade to bust up the sod to make digging with the FEL easier. Another thing I was going to try, but did not have time today, was to put some weight in the bucket of the FEL.

 

[dsmau]

With my 855 I take one layer at a time. These things are not bulldozers but if you break the dirt loose, you can then scoop it with the box and eventually fill the box over a 10-20ft pass. Next pass you go down a bit more and so on and so forth. This is how I am working it anyways...
I usually put the rippers at the same height as the blade and use the top link to switch between more rippers or more blading.
Hope it make sense and it helps! It takes some getting use to. Good luck!

 

[Mechanos]

Yeah, that I plan to do it as well. I just need to get the sod busted up before I can see how it's going to do in the dirt. This stuff is well esstablished and has a dense root system.

 

[cttractor]

It's a Frontier BB2060... 60". I have an area that I need to dig out a couple feet deep to make a parking area for a trailer. I'm trying to use the box blade to bust up the sod to make digging with the FEL easier. Another thing I was going to try, but did not have time today, was to put some weight in the bucket of the FEL.

Without FWD, weight in the loader would reduce your traction. But you do have FWD, so some weight may help. My experience when pulling heavy loads has been to "experiment" with the weight in the loader. If I put too much, the smaller front wheels keep turning, but they just don't have the area of the larger rear wheels and will dig themselves into a hole. I've often found that half a load works better than a full bucket. Of course, it also matters what you're placing in the bucket.

Please let us know how you make out.

 

[jenkinsph]

Yeah, that I plan to do it as well. I just need to get the sod busted up before I can see how it's going to do in the dirt. This stuff is well esstablished and has a dense root system.

In a nutshell the sod can be tough to dig through but just keep at it. It won't take very long to get it loosened up. You will then be able to proceed at a more rapid rate moving the dirt. If your rear tires are filled you should be okay with 4x4 and an empty to half full loader bucket.

I would loosen all the material with the boxblade and rippers then use the fel to scoop and transport. Should be faster than digging with the fel and less wear and tear on the machine.

 

[foggy1111]

I hang 6 suitcase weights on my box blade, which adds about 300 lbs of extra ballast for FEL work. (800 fluid rears + 400 BB + 300 weights)

With the extra weight carried on the box blade I realize improved performance from the BB when working on my gravel road or when using my scarifiers. The scarifiers really penetrate with the suitcase weights hanging on the blade. Likely would work better in sod too. :thumbsup:

 

[Mechanos]

...I would loosen all the material with the boxblade and rippers then use the fel to scoop and transport. Should be faster than digging with the fel and less wear and tear on the machine.

That is exactly my plan. Even once I get the sod removed, I'll take a couple passes with the box blade to let the scarifiers break up the top several inches of soil. Then scoop and transport. Actually for this particular task, I kind of wish I just had a bar with the scarifiers hanging from it without the box around it.

I hang 6 suitcase weights on my box blade, which adds about 300 lbs of extra ballast for FEL work. (800 fluid rears + 400 BB + 300 weights)

With the extra weight carried on the box blade I realize improved performance from the BB when working on my gravel road or when using my scarifiers. The scarifiers really penetrate with the suitcase weights hanging on the blade. Likely would work better in sod too. :thumbsup:

The scarifiers have no trouble penetrating the sod as is. Once they're buried and the blade comes in contact with sod, forward progess stops with both rears (diff lock engaged) and one front sprinng. I'm sure added weight to the BB would be beneficial to FEL work, but I don't currently have a penetration problem with the BB.