Did I break it bad?

/ Did I break it bad? #1  

hudlow

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
150
Location
Western North Carolina
Tractor
John Deere 790
I guess I overloaded my FEL on my JD790. As you can see in the photo the arms on the FEL came loose. As far as I can tell nothing is broken and no hoses are leaking.

The only damage I can see is that the latch link rods are bent.

It almost looks like this was supposed to happen to prevent a major breakage...?

How do I fix this? All advice is greatly appreciated.

img0577ax.jpg


Thanks, hud
 
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#2  
Upon further inspection I think can rig a come-a-long to the ROP and pull the FEL back into place. Then I'll take the rubber shims off the brace, reseat the arms and re install the rubber shims and hope for the best.

Am I on the right track?

hud
 
/ Did I break it bad? #3  
Upon further inspection I think can rig a come-a-long to the ROP and pull the FEL back into place. Then I'll take the rubber shims off the brace, reseat the arms and re install the rubber shims and hope for the best.

Am I on the right track?

hud

Looks like you're heading in the right direction. You can't use the hydraulics at all?
Anyway, once you get it back on the mounts and the grill guard repositioned (or repaired), you can better assess the damage, if any.

Good luck!
 
/ Did I break it bad? #4  
I can't tell by the pics, is there anything that locks the rear loader frame to the tractor frame??
 
/ Did I break it bad? #5  
Were your shims loose? I am not sure how that would happen if they were tight. I think you are on the right track to get it back on. Good luck
 
/ Did I break it bad? #6  
I can't tell by the pics, is there anything that locks the rear loader frame to the tractor frame??

You can see those black parts in the loader recepticals? They're called "Wedges".
When the loader is installed, those wedges are tapped down, then the bolts are torqued.
 
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Looks like you're heading in the right direction. You can't use the hydraulics at all?
Anyway, once you get it back on the mounts and the grill guard repositioned (or repaired), you can better assess the damage, if any.

Good luck!

Thanks Roy,

Hydraulics still work. I was able to lower the bucket to the ground after I moved the tractor to an area where I could work on it better.

I might be able to use them to help get the arms back on the mounts.

It looks like the grill guard hinges with the rest of the assembly so it might just roll back into place when everything else comes up.

hud
 
Last edited:
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Were your shims loose? I am not sure how that would happen if they were tight. I think you are on the right track to get it back on. Good luck

I don't believe the shims (wedges) were loose. I think I attempted to pick up more weight than the FEL was rated. It was a chunk of concrete that the mixer left behind when he was cleaning his chute.

The way it happened - it really does look like this was engineered to do just exactly what it was supposed to do. If the weight limit was exceeded the arm torqued out from under the rubber wedge and dropped the load before steel started giving way.

At any rate I'm glad it worked that way. It probably saved me a ton of money.

hud
 
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
You can see those black parts in the loader recepticals? They're called "Wedges".
When the loader is installed, those wedges are tapped down, then the bolts are torqued.

If the loader was securely fastened with bolts I suppose something would have broken.

I had my Bush Hog on the back of the tractor and I suppose it gave me enough ballast to pick up that concrete rock and overload the FEL.

hud
 
/ Did I break it bad? #10  
I had my Bush Hog on the back of the tractor and I suppose it gave me enough ballast to pick up that concrete rock and overload the FEL.

I don't see how that could be. If you were to overload the design capacities of the loader the hydraulics have a relief valve that would kick in well before mounting points should break. Look carefully as you put things back together and make sure there is not some other problem.

MarkV
 
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I don't see how that could be. If you were to overload the design capacities of the loader the hydraulics have a relief valve that would kick in well before mounting points should break. Look carefully as you put things back together and make sure there is not some other problem.

MarkV

That's interesting.

What you say makes sense about the hydraulics - something should kick in and open a relief valve. But the FEL arms slipped over a rubber wedge that appears to have been designed to give before the arms broke.

I agree the valve should have come into play first.
 
/ Did I break it bad? #12  
That's interesting.

What you say makes sense about the hydraulics - something should kick in and open a relief valve. But the FEL arms slipped over a rubber wedge that appears to have been designed to give before the arms broke.

I agree the valve should have come into play first.

Your wedges are rubber? Odd... The wedges on my old 670 (#60 loader) were steel.

Since MarkV brought up the relief valve...good point. It should have relieved before the loader came off the mounts. That valve might be sticking. I had both rear tires (no 3PH ballast) off the ground and the loader never came off the mounts (nor did the relief valve let go...)
 
/ Did I break it bad? #13  
The next time the loader pulls out of the rear mounting brackets, it could be catastrophic. The loader is not supposed the come loose unless you intentionally release the latches. I would have a knowledgeable person come out and look at it once it is remounted. Something is not right.

After someone gets maimed, it is too late.

Green parts are expensive. Missing body parts are permanent.

A $100.00/hr service call by a competent mechanic, is a bargain by comparison.

You were lucky this time...
 
/ Did I break it bad? #14  
Something wasn't right, IMO, to have the FEL come off like that. Adjustments not done correctly, or something (the rubber in the mounts makes me a bit suspicious where they came from and what they are doint there) out of the ordinary. As said, the limit should come through the hydraulics and relief valves.
 
/ Did I break it bad? #15  
I don't believe the shims (wedges) were loose. I think I attempted to pick up more weight than the FEL was rated. It was a chunk of concrete that the mixer left behind when he was cleaning his chute.

The way it happened - it really does look like this was engineered to do just exactly what it was supposed to do. If the weight limit was exceeded the arm torqued out from under the rubber wedge and dropped the load before steel started giving way.

At any rate I'm glad it worked that way. It probably saved me a ton of money.

hud

It probably saved you from buying a new tractor. Now get out there and do it right:D
 
/ Did I break it bad? #16  
The next time the loader pulls out of the rear mounting brackets, it could be catastrophic. The loader is not supposed the come loose unless you intentionally release the latches. I would have a knowledgeable person come out and look at it once it is remounted. Something is not right.

After someone gets maimed, it is too late.

Green parts are expensive. Missing body parts are permanent.

A $100.00/hr service call by a competent mechanic, is a bargain by comparison.

You were lucky this time...

What he said. Having the loader come loose like that is dangerous and it is very unlikely that it was designed to work this way.
 
/ Did I break it bad? #17  
It is definitely not suppose to do that. If the wedges are rubber then that is the reason for the failure. The wedges need to be steel and they are not to give away like that. They are what keep the loader locked down. Any safety from overloading is done with the relief valve in the hydraulic circuit.
Glad it was not worse. It could have been deadly.:(
 
/ Did I break it bad? #18  
Could they shipped with rubber for some reason and it never got serviced by the selling dealer so the steel ones were never installed?

The bypass valve is the 'fuse' in an hydralic equipment system.
 
/ Did I break it bad?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Your wedges are rubber? Odd... The wedges on my old 670 (#60 loader) were steel.

Since MarkV brought up the relief valve...good point. It should have relieved before the loader came off the mounts. That valve might be sticking. I had both rear tires (no 3PH ballast) off the ground and the loader never came off the mounts (nor did the relief valve let go...)

I sincerely apologize to all that have attempted to advise me on this issue.

I gave you some bad information.

The wedges are indeed steel. They are flat black and look like a piece of heavy rubber. In my haste I neglected to confirm this detail.

Nevertheless this failure should not have happened, as has been pointed out, before a relief valve opened up.

I'm going to take my photo and go to the JD dealership to get their thoughts.

I'll let you all know what they have to say.
 
/ Did I break it bad? #20  
I sincerely apologize to all that have attempted to advise me on this issue.

I gave you some bad information.

The wedges are indeed steel. They are flat black and look like a piece of heavy rubber. In my haste I neglected to confirm this detail.

Nevertheless this failure should not have happened, as has been pointed out, before a relief valve opened up.

I'm going to take my photo and go to the JD dealership to get their thoughts.

I'll let you all know what they have to say.

I'll wager your wedges weren't properly adjusted. Due to loader movement, they do have to be adjusted occasionally (even if the loader isn't removed and re-installed).
 

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