Loader Wheel Horse Loader, install on Yanmar

[mtm88001]

I bought a Wheel Horse Loader I would like to install on my yanmar F15D. I want to use a pump attached to my fan belt instead of tying into my existing system. Any suggestions on what pump to get and any information on this loader would be helpful.

 

[YannyMan]

I'd try the wheelhorse forum......

 

[winston1]

I don't know how you would mount a fan belt driven hydraulic pump and if you could I don't think you could get enough oomf with a fan belt drive to turn a hydraulic pump.

 

[mtm88001]

I don't know how you would mount a fan belt driven hydraulic pump and if you could I don't think you could get enough oomf with a fan belt drive to turn a hydraulic pump.

Your are probably right,
I think I will go ahead and use the tractors hydraulics, looks easier to do since I was able align the loader up easily.

More pics ...

 

[winston1]

At first look it would seem that bucket is way out front a long ways. Maybe that will change with bucket curled the other direction.

 

[deepNdirt]

Yes Winston I agree, the loader arms do send the bucket way out front, or at least the picture makes it look that way, I notice the alignment of the rear mount of the loader looks as though it would have to sit on the running boards in order to pull the tractor on up into the loader far enough,
I'm not one to be saying! being I have such a oversize loader on my tractor and all but I would be very surprised if this loader will work without having make some serious modifications first, and where is the sub frame? the part that mounts up on the bumper.
Perhaps it was removed to make it easier to pull into?

 

[California]

Do you have room to tilt the hood forward with the bucket on the ground?

 

[Gary Sweat]

To make it fit the tractor he will have to shorten the lift and bucket arms. Easiest way would be to cut them back at the support brace and weld in new brace plates. The lift cylinders will have to drop down a little on the upright arms and the bucket cylinders will need to ride up a little higher on the top of the arms. Will also need a sub frame. Sounds like a lot of work but a welder can do that pretty easy if he does not weld himself. That would make the loader a lot more functional and let the loader lift more weight with less stress on the tractor.

 

[Gary Sweat]

mtm88001 - Here is a picture of what a sub frame is if you aren't sure what we are talking about.

 

[deepNdirt]

mtm88001 - Here is a picture of what a sub frame is if you aren't sure what we are talking about.

Gary Sweat, I may be wrong with what I was refering to as a subframe if this is what you are calling a subframe, I was thinking more of the frame that connects and braces the loader to the front bumper, and runs along side of the tractor connecting back to the upright part of the loader, I always refered to the pix your showing as the mounting bracket/frame,
as I said I might be wrong,

 

[deepNdirt]

mtm88001 - Here is a picture of what a sub frame is if you aren't sure what we are talking about.

Gary Sweat, I may be wrong with what I was referring to as a sub-frame if this is what you are calling a sub-frame, I was thinking more of the frame that connects and braces the loader to the front bumper, and runs along side of the tractor connecting back to the upright part of the loader, I always referred to the pix your showing as the mounting bracket/frame, Perhaps what you are showing plus what I am talking about both parts included make up the sub-frame,
as I said I might be wrong,
BTW that is some great looking welding and fabricating you've done,

 

[California]

Here are some more subframe pictures.

 

[Gary Sweat]

Gary Sweat, I may be wrong with what I was referring to as a sub-frame if this is what you are calling a sub-frame, I was thinking more of the frame that connects and braces the loader to the front bumper, and runs along side of the tractor connecting back to the upright part of the loader, I always referred to the pix your showing as the mounting bracket/frame, Perhaps what you are showing plus what I am talking about both parts included make up the sub-frame,
as I said I might be wrong,
BTW that is some great looking welding and fabricating you've done,

It's kind of a terminology thing. Usually the frame under the tractor is referred to as the sub-frame and the piece running to the front is just called a brace arm. The strength of the loader is actually the brace arms running to the front of the tractor. They take all the load forward and backward that is placed on the loader by the bucket and pushing/back grading. The sub-frame holds the loader and is usually designed to spread out the stress on the tractor.

I probably over designed the sub-frame on mine but so far nothing has broken. I still have to run the braces from the sub-frame back to the axles but that will be done when I can get the time. So far it's not showing a need for them but at some point I could over do it and cause a problem.

 

[Coldwater]

this loader is too long and too narrow.i have made a lot of loaders.that tractor takes a wide short loader.now you can cut it and make it work.but if you can do that you can make a new one.

 

[Gary Sweat]

this loader is too long and too narrow.i have made a lot of loaders.that tractor takes a wide short loader.now you can cut it and make it work.but if you can do that you can make a new one.

You can shorten and widen (if needed) much easier, quicker and cheaper than you can build one from scratch.

 

[Coldwater]

You can shorten and widen (if needed) much easier, quicker and cheaper than you can build one from scratch.

you can i can't.in 12yr of loader making i my have done 20 f15 yanmar.sell the loader for $1500 and go buy 2 14"x2" and 1 10"x2 cylinders. a 2 spool valve.take a look at a loader on the web to see how it go on a f15.

 

[Gary Sweat]

you can i can't.in 12yr of loader making i my have done 20 f15 yanmar.sell the loader for $1500 and go buy 2 14"x2" and 1 10"x2 cylinders. a 2 spool valve.take a look at a loader on the web to see how it go on a f15.

I don't doubt you could build one easier than modifying one but that is a different story for someone with no experience and working from a home shop or garage doing it. I built my loader and know what it took in time, money and trial and error. He has the complete loader except for the sub-frame and braces. It is a smaller job to cut the arms and re-weld the plates back on than building a complete loader from scratch. The sub-frame is not that hard to build either.

If I had known about your loader, I would have bought it instead of building one.

 

[Coldwater]

I don't doubt you could build one easier than modifying one but that is a different story for someone with no experience and working from a home shop or garage doing it. I built my loader and know what it took in time, money and trial and error. He has the complete loader except for the sub-frame and braces. It is a smaller job to cut the arms and re-weld the plates back on than building a complete loader from scratch. The sub-frame is not that hard to build either.

If I had known about your loader, I would have bought it instead of building one.

nice job on the loader gray looks good.if he can fab as good as you he will do fine.you just need time to make it fit.

 

[mtm88001]

Thanks for the picks of the sub frame, I am currently trying to fabricate a frame to hold the front end loader. one obstacle currently is the darn drive shaft for the 4wd is right in the way of bolting a 1 piece sub frame. I am going to make a frame that bolts together, around the drive shaft. I will also have to fab the support arms that run to the front of the tractor.

I will update in a day or two with some pics when I get the frame bolted on.

Edit: Looking at the pics from Coldwater's site of his loaders gives me a better Idea of the sub frame construction for my 4wd loader.

 

[mtm88001]

Do you have room to tilt the hood forward with the bucket on the ground?

The hood doesn't tilt forward, the hood opens from the front like a truck or car hood. Shouldn't be any problem opening the hood after the loader is installed.