CK30 HST 3-Point PHD Operation Help

[BSVLY]

I am almost done installing the SPEECO Model 65 PHD with a 12" auger on the Kioti CK30 HST. Bought the PHD new with the tractor a year ago-but it was knocked down and I had to assemble it. Some of the hardware was apparently missing-so SPEECO is sending a kit. Seems like a good company.

Getting ready to continue with fence project and want to drill some holes for planting some trees. It will be nice to use the SPEECO.

First Off- I am fully aware of how dangerous a PTO driven PHD is. Have plenty of respect for the machine. I have read-up on this forum and the saftey threads etc. I have used a PHD/Auger on a neighbors manual gear drive tractor a few years back- so I have "some experience".

What I'd like to know is- what is the proper procedure for operating the PTO and this auger specific to the CK30 HST please? Reading the Kioti manual is just not cutting it. I'd like info on throttle settings, the sequence of pushing and pulling the levers, pedals etc. Is there someone on the board that has a similar rig that can give me step-by-step instructions? Thanks in advance for any help on the safe and proper operation of this implement.

 

[steve0413]

I have used a PHD many times on my DK45. We always run ours at a very low RPM in case it grabs a large root. Our soil here (Arkansas) is a sandy loam then red clay. The auger will do all the work. I will sometimes have to lift it from the hole to help evacuate the dirt/clay. As for the danger, I have a cousin missing a leg from using an auger. His pants leg caught on the PTO shaft. Just stay away from it while it's working. Use the MANUAL PTO switch so that you don't inadvertently lower the 3PT lift and it engages while someone is too close. It's helpful to have someone on the ground to help eyeball the vertical position. Hope this helps.

 

[KBEAT]

I've done alot of holes with my CK30 HST and can't believe how easy it has been. As mentioned above it's alot easier if you have someone else to keep an eye on the level. Just keep your foot on the clutch pedal when you're digging. I would position the tractor, drop the auger point on my mark, level the auger and engage the PTO. I would keep it turning if I was clearing the hole by lifting the auger as long as you don't pull it all the way out. The 12" auger I was using cut like butter, even in our clay. Just make sure eveyone is clear before you engage the PTO.

 

[Gil Case]

You guys are lucky that you do not have rocky soil as we do in New England. If you do not lift the PHD every four or five inches, it will grab between a couple of rocks or tree roots and screw itself into the ground. There is no reverse on those things. Somewhere on here there is a thread about a guy who spent two hours digging his PHD out the ground. However, if it does screw itself into the ground, it has been suggested that you take a big pipe wrench and turn the thing backwards and it will unscrew itself- may take awhile, but beats digging it out.

 

[BSVLY]

Thanks for the info so far. The soil where we live is sandy loam with just a tad bit of clay in scattered deposits. There is a firm crust around 9 inches deep and once you break through that-the digging is unobstructed. No rocks really. When they drilled the well, they drilled down 200 feet and did not hit a rock bigger than your thumbnail! We are located atop an ancient lakebed at 5000' in a mountain valley and the overburden is hundreds of feet thick.

Is this method right then?

1) Position Tractor
2) Place in neutral
3) Set Brake-Chock tires too?
4) Lower Auger tip to ground
5) Depress clutch
6) Engage PTO into 540 RPM Position
7) Set Throttle (How many RPM?)
8) Start drilling and lower 3-Pt lever all the way down-monitor drilling
9) Increase RPM to clear hole- do not raise auger out . Finish hole.
10) Disengage PTO (depress clutch, PTO lever back to off)
11) Raise auger out of hole

I've even seen some video demos where the tractor is moved forward as the hole is drilled in order to maintain a verticle hole. Is this a good practice or required?

As you can see-I really want the details here.

Thanks

 

[Coyote machine]

I believe your RPM gauge will have a yellow arrow pointer showing 540 PTO position on the dial- (around 2500+ RPMs).
You should be near that RPM to get 540 at the PTO shaft.
Make sure to have all PTO shaft guards on and chained as per specifications with the particular item in use.

 

[wallace]

I believe your RPM gauge will have a yellow arrow pointer showing 540 PTO position on the dial- (around 2500+ RPMs).
You should be near that RPM to get 540 at the PTO shaft.
Make sure to have all PTO shaft guards on and chained as per specifications with the particular item in use.

NO!
Post hole diggers are ment to be ran at little more than a idle!
One other thing. once the point is set where you would like to drill, move the tractor ahead aprox 3" as the auger works into the ground, the angle will straighten due to pivioting action of boom.

 

[Bigturk]

Ted at Everything attachments has some great videos. Have a look at this one

How to use a post hole digger

 

[Coyote machine]

NO!
Post hole diggers are ment to be ran at little more than a idle!
One other thing. once the point is set where you would like to drill, move the tractor ahead aprox 3" as the auger works into the ground, the angle will straighten due to pivioting action of boom.

OP asked: "6) Engage PTO into 540 RPM Position". I replied as to where the 540 mark is on the RPM gauge and how many RPMS = 540 at PTO shaft. I did NOT tell the OP to run a PHD at that speed. Ease up.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

OP asked: "6) Engage PTO into 540 RPM Position". I replied as to where the 540 mark is on the RPM gauge and how many RPMS = 540 at PTO shaft. I did NOT tell the OP to run a PHD at that speed. Ease up.

While what you say is true, I too, took your post as saying to run the PTO at 540 RPM. Other wise why even bother posting what you posted?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Is this method right then?

1) Position Tractor
2) Place in neutral
3) Set Brake-Chock tires too? No need to chock the tires
4) Lower Auger tip to ground
5) Depress clutch
6) Engage PTO into 540 RPM Position
7) Set Throttle (How many RPM?) Idle works for me
8) Start drilling and lower 3-Pt lever all the way down-monitor drilling Move the lever down as the auger digs in.
9) Increase RPM to clear hole- do not raise auger out . Finish hole. Raise the auger every 12" of depth to clear the dirt, just don't raise it out of the hole. No need to raise the RPM.
10) Disengage PTO (depress clutch, PTO lever back to off)
11) Raise auger out of hole

I've even seen some video demos where the tractor is moved forward as the hole is drilled in order to maintain a verticle hole. Is this a good practice or required? Depends on the size of the hole and what you are using it for

 

[Coyote machine]

While what you say is true, I too, took your post as saying to run the PTO at 540 RPM. Other wise why even bother posting what you posted?

When I look back at the OP's post I see that I was trying to answer both #6 & #7 at the same time- it seems the OP was asking at what position the throttle should be at and #6 was asking where PTO speed is at...
My intent was to point out that the PTO 540 position on the RPM gauge is at 2500RPMs indicated by the yellow pointer on the gauge. I was not saying then OR now that the PHD is meant to be run at that speed.

 

[BSVLY]

Thanks again to all of you. I think that I now have the info I need to give it a go. I appreciate the tips and the double checks. Always willing to learn. Any other tips and guidelines appreciated.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When I look back at the OP's post I see that I was trying to answer both #6 & #7 at the same time- it seems the OP was asking at what position the throttle should be at and #6 was asking where PTO speed is at...
My intent was to point out that the PTO 540 position on the RPM gauge is at 2500RPMs indicated by the yellow pointer on the gauge. I was not saying then OR now that the PHD is meant to be run at that speed.

Ok, no harm intended, just don't want a newbie misunderstanding and ending up in trouble.

 

[bearhawk]

I found that if I dug a little starter hole with a shovel it was easier to locate the point and not have it walk around so much.

Also be ready with the clutch, if it starts to dig it can suck down into the earth real fast. I found that when it get's stuck, and it will. Putting upward pressure while bouncing up on the clutch can help work it out.

I (now) have the largest pipe wrench I could find sitting in the corner of the shop..

And if you have any soil like we do in NH, you better have a handful of shear pins...

 

[steve0413]

If you're having trouble with it sucking down into the ground too fast, then don't put the 3pt all the way down at once. Just a little at a time will keep it from taking too big of a bite.

 

[Gil Case]

That is easy for you to say, you are in AR, here in New England you do not dig a hole, you remove rocks until you get a hole the right depth, then you use the rocks you have just taken out of your hole to build a stone wall somewhere on the property.
The BIG pipe wrench is a necessary evil.

 

[Coyote machine]

That is easy for you to say, you are in AR, here in New England you do not dig a hole, you remove rocks until you get a hole the right depth, then you use the rocks you have just taken out of your hole to build a stone wall somewhere on the property.
The BIG pipe wrench is a necessary evil.

No problem, the hole's right there, you just can't see it for all the rocks blocking it- remove the rocks- perfect hole just where you need it:laughing:

 

[steve0413]

That is easy for you to say, you are in AR, here in New England you do not dig a hole, you remove rocks until you get a hole the right depth, then you use the rocks you have just taken out of your hole to build a stone wall somewhere on the property.
The BIG pipe wrench is a necessary evil.

Sounds like a jack hammer might come in handy up there or, you can always move to Arkansas. We haven't reached our yankee quota for the year yet. :laughing:

 

[grsthegreat]

I'm adding the hydraulic assist unit that speeco sells on my model 65. hopefully it will help give me a little uMPH to get the hole started in my decomposed granite crud here in Idaho.