4WD not engaging?

[brunswick000]

I have a Kubota L245DT and when I was pushing back some snow banks this morning I think that the 4wd might not be engaging. In my pickup if you're in 4wd and you get stuck, and you're giving it gas it will jump around a bit as all 4 wheels are trying to move you. But with the tractor, if I get up against the snow bank and it doesn't want to move the tractor just stops. I can rev it till the cows come home, it just doesn't seem to even try to move any more. I haven't owned any tractors prior to this, so maybe this is normal? Im thinking not. Does anyone have any advice?

 

[arrow]

I have a Kubota L245DT and when I was pushing back some snow banks this morning I think that the 4wd might not be engaging. In my pickup if you're in 4wd and you get stuck, and you're giving it gas it will jump around a bit as all 4 wheels are trying to move you. But with the tractor, if I get up against the snow bank and it doesn't want to move the tractor just stops. I can rev it till the cows come home, it just doesn't seem to even try to move any more. I haven't owned any tractors prior to this, so maybe this is normal? Im thinking not. Does anyone have any advice?

First thing to do is to see if your suspicions are correct. With the tractor simply in the driveway with no load on it whatsoever, put the tractor in 2wd. Do you move? If not, does the tractor move in 4wd? If it only moves in 4wd, then your rear differentials are indeed not engaging.
If the tractor does move in 2wd, jack the front end up with the loader and engage 4wd. See if the fronts are moving as you skid along being pushed by the rears. If you do not see the front tires rotating while suspended in the air, then you know its the fronts not engaging. I do not know how the Kubotas engage in the front so it could be a switch or something like a shaft spline or a front housing gear if indeed the fronts are not moving.

 

[kebo]

Not quite sure what you mean by this statement: " if I get up against the snow bank and it doesn't want to move the tractor just stops. I can rev it till the cows come home, it just doesn't seem to even try to move any more."

Are you saying that neither the front tires nor the rear tires will spin??? Or do you mean that only the rear tires spin? Is that a gear drive or HST drive tractor??? If the rear tires were spinning, you need to jack the tractor up on blocks, put in 4x4, and give it some slight throttle and see what happens. If the fronts don't rotate then you have problem in the driveline obviously. That would be the best way to try and narrow down where the problem is. Good luck.

 

[machmeter62]

I have the L295DT of the same vintage, that I purchased new in Jun.'78! It has been trouble free, and spent most of it's life in 4WD, without any problems; also the 4WD was engaged on hard surfaces too. The owners manual states no restrictions on the use. I also purchased a loader with it.

They are a tough tractor, and very well engineered. But, if your tractor prior life was in a rental yard....they can destroy anything there!

If the 4WD isn't working properly, I would contact "TRACTORSMART.COM." They are a good group of guys selling parts only, and manuals too,... I think, for Kubota Tractors. They also won't sell you anything you don't need, and are very helpfull also.

 

[brunswick000]

I guess ill have to put the whole tractor up on heavy axle stands to check if the 4wd is working or not as I don't have a loader......yet. What I meant by the tractor not moving is that I was surprised the tractor didnt give me any "feedback" if you will when it got up angainst a snow bank it couldnt move. I just figured in 4 low, the tires would bind or spin. Well not spin, but I thought that I would at least see that it was trying to do something it couldnt. I dont know if you'll all understand that, cause its confusing to me. Ill check once I have some spare time and post back. Still a great tractor irregardless.

 

[MikeInEburg]

You haven't mentioned what type of transmission is in the tractor. Although I'm not sure that I totally understand, it sounds like you didn't see the wheels spinning. If they did not spin then you're right, you have some type of trouble. A tractor in "4 low" will generally have one rear and one front wheel spin when traction is lost. If you engage the differential lock, you'd have both rear wheels and one front wheel spin. If manual transmission, likely a clutch issue. If hydro, I don't really know where to point.
Mike

 

[Carl_NH]

L245DT is 4 hi/lo so 8 speeds with a clutch. Sounds to me you have a clutch issue.

Push in the clutch, put it in the highest gear - 8th, tach around 1200 RPM, and foot on the brake and let the clutch out - it should lug down and stall the tractor. If it doesn't bad clutch.

If I recall you recently purchased this unit also? Did you test this out plowing? The only other thing is if you are off balance one wheel on both axles will spin and the other one wont - this happens to me in snow.

The other test - find a patch of ice and put the back wheels on the ice and raise the front end off the ground with the loader then let the clutch out - the fronts should spin along with the back wheels.

Good luck and I hope for your sake its not the clutch, but they are not too complex to split.

 

[kebo]

L245DT is 4 hi/lo so 8 speeds with a clutch. Sounds to me you have a clutch issue.

Push in the clutch, put it in the highest gear - 8th, tach around 1200 RPM, and foot on the brake and let the clutch out - it should lug down and stall the tractor. If it doesn't bad clutch.

If I recall you recently purchased this unit also? Did you test this out plowing? The only other thing is if you are off balance one wheel on both axles will spin and the other one wont - this happens to me in snow.

The other test - find a patch of ice and put the back wheels on the ice and raise the front end off the ground with the loader then let the clutch out - the fronts should spin along with the back wheels.

Good luck and I hope for your sake its not the clutch, but they are not too complex to split.

I was leaning towards the clutch slipping as well, at least when under heavy pushing/pulling, if it was a gear drive model. The OP stated he didn't have a loader, see post #5.

 

[brunswick000]

posted this on OrangeTractorTalks too and they are all saying its a clutch issue. So pissed right now. I did plow with it when I tried it out. It will plow, its only when im pushing right into a bank of snow, putting a lot of load on the tractor that it stops. Then i raise the blade a bit to take a bit of load off and it starts pushing again. Must be a clutch issue in the works. Snow was light where I tried it. Pushed the banks there no problem. Still has a lot of ummphh in it but it is definitely going to need addressing this summer. Bummer

 

[sunnyside360]

I'd say your clutch is slipping and either needs adjusted or replaced. Try adjusting the clutch (adjusting rod) and if that doesn't fix it is the clutch disc. The pressure plate may need to be replaced also. I once owned the same tractor. Bought the L245DT new in 1979 and had it for 12 years. Never had an ounce of trouble --- great tractor for it's size.

 

[brunswick000]

Its my first tractor and despite the issue so far I love it. These issues are more of an excuse to just overhaul the tractor. Might as well if im splitting it in half. Can anyone suggest how I should support the two halves of the tractor when it is split? This wont happen until warmer weather fyi.

 

[brunswick000]

Question. When adjust the clutch "free play" is it measured by the free play in the pedal? If so, the shop manual staes that it should be between 1 & 1 3/8". If the clutch is in fact slipping and the free play is already 1" does this mean I cant go any less? Or rather, do I have any room to play? Tightening the bolt reduces free play, and lossening it increases free play, correct?

 

[RalphVa]

I'd stay within the free play stats on your clutch adjustment. Funny they still have this on tractors. It's gone by the wayside with cars. I haven't adjusted a clutch free play on a car/pickup in eons, and that's all we've owned except for a 1957 Chrysler I had once.

A clutch will slip less in lower gears. That's my experience anyway.

In 4wd, without the differential lock on, one wheel can spin like crazy, and none of the others will move. Locking the differential (most have this as a manual lock) locks up the non-spinning wheels.

Also, it's tough to get into and out of 4wd on pickups/SUVs and tractors that have a plain mechanical engagement. The lever just won't move unless stress is removed from the drive train. On my tractor, it goes in/out best when rolling on a flat surface going slightly downhill. Had a horrible time getting a friend's old Blazer into 4wd when she skidded it (in 2wd) crossways on the road.

Ralph

 

[brunswick000]

Well I managed to adjust the clutch by trial and error. I mean its one bolt for crying out loud. Seems to have fixed the issue. It had too much play actually. No problem moving snow tonight, and the snow has been sitting for a few days with time to settle. Also the wheels acted more as I thought they would. I could see the front wheels attempting to gain traction so im pleased. Man im impressed with how much power such a small tractor has. Soooo glad I finally bought one. Thanks to everyone on here for all your advice. I think the reality is that it is nearly 30 years old, and there is no definitive way to know how well it was cared for over that time. There is obviously an issue with the clutch and who knows what else, so im just going to start another tractor fund for implements and maintenance. Plus as its my first tractor I need to giver the tlc I think she deserves. Thanks again.

 

[jimmysisson]

Glad you're able to use the tractor. Too much free play means (to me) your clutch engages early, pedal closer to floorboard, clutch won't DISengage. Too little is when you get slipping from linkage problems, clutch won't engage fully. See how it goes, and take it easy on heavy loads until you're sure it's good.
Jim

 

[brunswick000]

Glad you're able to use the tractor. Too much free play means (to me) your clutch engages early, pedal closer to floorboard, clutch won't DISengage. Too little is when you get slipping from linkage problems, clutch won't engage fully. See how it goes, and take it easy on heavy loads until you're sure it's good.
Jim

Yes, you are right. The whole thing confuses me to be honest. I layed under the tractor staring at the adjusting bolt trying to figure it out, and finally just tried one way and then the other :confused2: The first time I tried I must have over tightened as the clutch wouldn't fully disengage. Anyway I guess the positive is that it is working now. Im still not sure ive written it out right. It works so who cares. Perhaps on that note I should be glad I don't have to split it half.

 

[Denwa]

Its my first tractor and despite the issue so far I love it. These issues are more of an excuse to just overhaul the tractor. Might as well if im splitting it in half. Can anyone suggest how I should support the two halves of the tractor when it is split? This wont happen until warmer weather fyi.

When I got my B20 last year I had to rebuild the PTO gear train in the transmission. LOTS of bolts to remove, but pretty straight forward.

I got several jack stands, mostly 3 ton, to hold the thing up while working on it. The jack stands worked nicely. Easy height adjustment and removal, and very stable. As with firewood, you just can't have enough jack stands. Handy for all sorts of things. You will also want to get a large garage style floor jack to do the lifting.

A couple of small jack stands worked well to keep the FEL off the floor during the overhaul process. I put them between the frame and the bottom of the bucket. This allowed me to move the tractor without dragging the bucket on the ground and made walk around easier. This was mostly because I started the project outside, but later wanted to move indoors for the "split".

As some told me when I was contemplating my overhaul, "it will make you one with your tractor" ;' >

Have "fun",
Dennis

 

[crazyal]

I would think about replacing the clutch this summer when it's warm. Since it was slipping there's no telling how much wear it has on it and unless you have a nice warm place to fix it in the winter. Like you said, it's a good excuse to take it apart and go through the tractor.

 

[brunswick000]

Wellllllll, ok I guess. Ive made a list of the stuff ill need to get the job done. It will have to be done in spring / summer despite the fact that ill be siding, insulating, and heating my garage for this next winter. I got it for my laneway, and ive got to be able to use it for that. Im shelling out an average of $1000 / yr to have it cleared for me, and thats at $40 a pop, not including sand. BIG LANEWAY AND YARD.

Thanks for the advice on the jack stands. Also as I asked earlier, is there any other "you might as well do this" stuff that I "might as well do" while I have it split? Depending on parts cost im up for replacing any major components that may be worn. Lets make an overhaul list and ill start buying up the parts.

 

[Ford tractor]

Clutches do wear and need to be adjusted. You may not need to do anything besides adjust for a number of years.

Also, your operational technique can cause rapid clutch wear. Using the clutch to modulate speed (like when plowing into a snow bank) can roast a brand new clutch in a day in the worst cases. So, don't do that!