2320 vs. 2520 - worth the difference?

[bxowner]

I know this is a variation of the same question, but I can't seem to find (in the archives) an answer to my question:

Is the 2520 worth an extra $2500?!

I used to own a 2320 and sold it - foolishly - because I was short on money. I loved the tractor. Now, I'm thinking about buying another one, but question whether I should spend the extra money on the 2520 to get past the one thing I considered lacking on the 2320 - the power to handle "high range."

As best as I can tell from the specs, the only real difference is the motor itself. I'm struggling to justify how 2 PTO HP is worth that much money. I'm not concerned with weight, loader response speed or the extra length.

Can owners of the 2520 tell me if there's a REAL advantage? Is it the direct-inject engine? (which I can't really understand - do you just turn the key, even in extremely cold weather?). Is it the larger tires? Or is there something more that I'm missing?

 

[BethesdaEC]

I almost bought a 2320, but the JD dealer didn't have one at the time, so I started looking at the 2520. It has much more hydro power, a little extra heft, bigger tires and can simply be refueled if it runs dry. When you are getting the loader, backhoe, front blade and box blade that $2500 dollar difference is less than 10% and I figured that this is a long term if not lifetime investment so I went for it. So far my only disappointment was the storm viered east and we only got 2 inches of snow instead of the 8 they were forcasting last night. Oh one other thing, their is very little clearance for chains on the front (see link below).

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/john-deere-owning-operating/191907-front-snow-chains-2520-a.html

 

[jcmseven]

I think it depends largely on what one is doing with the machine. I have stated in previous posts, and to the chagrin of some, that for what I do which is mostly light to moderate loader work, box blading, mowing finished grass, etc., the 2320 is a wonderful machine. I have never owned a 2520 or 2720 but demoed a 2720 on my property for a week or so before buying the 2320. I personally could tell no meaningful difference in performance between the two. Sure, the 2720 was a little bigger, and it had a little more loader speed cycling, but it did not lift anymore and would not climb my steep drive in high range any better than the 2320 and neither could do it with a bucket full of material. One thing I truly like about the 2320 is its size. It is a little shorter than the 2520 and 2720 and this equates to some additional deftness in tight areas. As you know I have mine at my dad's place now, and it mows great. The 2720 was almost as long as my 3720 without the capability and I personally have had no better luck cranking a direct injected diesel in really cold weather than an indirect injected. The caveat here is that the 2520 has more engine torque and makes it at lower RPMs. I suspect this would be noticed when doing heavy loader work or running a rotary cutter. I did not notice it mowing or doing the other tasks I mention. I can only speak to the situation I know. If one does mostly finish mowing, light/medium duty loader work and light ground engagement work the 2320 is in my mind the better choice (for the money). The 2520 would be better for heavy PTO work, and loader work that benefits from very short cycle times. $2500 over time is not that much, but I am personally hard pressed to be able to justify not going into a 3320 or something like it for the difference in price over a 2520. I know those with 2520's out there like them, but specifically addressing those areas of concern you mention, I do not think you would see much improvement over a 2320--and possibly none depending on what your plans are for the machine. One thing that probably stands out as much as anything for me is that after extensively demoing a 2720 (even more powerful than a 2520, and the same physical size) prior to committing I still went with a 2320. It is probably the first time I have ever bought a smaller machine than a larger one because I thought it was the better deal and performed similarly.

John M

John M

 

[Deadman]

I wish my 2520 had more power, so a 2320 would be even worse for me.
The slow loader speed would get annoying too.

Otherwise, they are somewhat similar.

 

[OneMarineE5]

I took delevery of a 2720 this month. I was originally looking to get the 2320. The one thing pointed out to me that is different going from 2320 to 25/2720 is the rear axle/gear assembly.

The 25/2720 assembly is significantly more heavy duty. Just look between the wheels and you will see. I'm not attempting to down the 2320 in any way at all, it is a wonderful machine and it is more than worth the price. However, when you are considering 2320 versus one of the other two, the engine power is only the icing on the cake. The cake is that rear assembly and it's much heavier work capacity.

A few of the benefits:
* Better hydraulics (as mentioned by others)
2320 = 5.6gpm total vs 25/2720 = 10.5gpm total
* Larger tires (as mentioned by others)
* Extra weight/heft is like getting additional ballast
2320 = 1660lb vs 2520 = 1865lb
* Different frame on 25/2720
* Larger alternator out-put
2320 = 20amp vs 25/2720 = 40amp
* Better/tougher rear axle

My thoughts are, the first time you need just a little more power or weight than what the 2320 can do you might second guess your decision. The first time you'd run out of power or weight with a 25/2720 you can remind yourself that...not only would you have had to spend much more, you would also need much greater storage for that next size up.

JohnDeere Media Player

Just my humble opinion regarding the machines stats. Please let us know what you do? And show pics of what ever you get. It's not like any of them would be a mistake. :thumbsup:

 

[jcmseven]

As I have mentioned, these machines are more similar than they are different. All have made valid points and I agree with them. Unfortunately, my personal experience is that some of the upgrades discussed do not necessarily equate to better performance. In the areas that the 2520 performs better, the differences are fairly small. To some of us, that makes a big difference and would be worth the money. I do not know if this is your particular case, though. This also comes at some price. The 2520, if the 2720 I tested is any indication, will likely not do as well on fuel. As mentioned, the 2520 and 2720 take up almost as much floor space in the garage as a 3000 series (this was a no-go for me) and are not quite as "compact" as they seem. The transaxle (and other components) is different, but not necessarily more heavy duty (the 3000 series certainly is). My opinion continues to be if one is planning loader work or heavy PTO work the predominance of the time he has the machine, the 2520 or up to the 2720 is certainly the way to go. These machines do produce a lot of torque for low speed lugging in hard conditions. The faster hydraulics alone make this a viable reason. But, if you do not have those things in mind and are planning to mow or do some light landscaping the 2320 is a great machine and you could save some $$$ to put on attachments. I like them both, and even though you had a 2320 in the past and know you liked it, I suspect you will like a 2520 just the same. However, if you have hills like I do and have a need to spend more time working in the high range, the 2520 does not have enough more engine power nor a better power to weight ratio to improve this over a 2320 (dry weight for tractor alone it has no better HP/weight ratio and has larger tire circumference). As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the 2720 I tested out would climb my steep drive and wooded slope better than my 2320, but it was a small difference which was negated by having a load in the bucket or pulling a trailer around. It was A range all the way, even on that 31.4 flywheel HP machine.

John M

 

[AKfish]

Is this tractor purchase gonna be a "long term" investment? Hoping to live with your final decision for a long time?

If you have concerns about loader performance or pto performance or just the overall heft of the machine for the work you have in mind?

If that's the situation --- buy the 2520 and don't look back!

Or be nagged and haggled by those concerns until you sell the 2320 (at a loss) and buy a 2520.

My $0.02; based upon my on personal "nags".....

AKfish

 

[bxowner]

Wow. All of these points are really insightful and go way beyond what I was hoping to learn. I really appreciate everyone's thoughts and time spent sharing them...

I'm in the predicament of not "having" to do anything - more discontentment with what I own now. I bought a Kubota B2920 last winter and based my decision primarily on paper specs - rather than comparing the overall tractor. Another huge mistake on my part! (the first being selling the 2320 to begin with).

Here's what is bothering me about the B-series: I simply can't get used to the pedal configuration. To make matters worse, the pedals stick when depressed either direction and it's more than a little disconcerting to try to approach an obstacle or predict stopping by backing off the throttle, only to keep going at speed. Then it's a panic choice between stepping on the other direction pedal to unstick or going for the brake - which is on the same side. Even before the sticking began, I am left wanting the brakes on the other side so I can have controlled approaches to banks to dump material over or brushhog steep slopes...

Also, the lesser issues, but on a day-to-day basis that make it add up: the 2320 has the electric PTO while my tractor requires clutch, the 2320 has position control and the 2320 has small details like the 4WD light on the dash... which to me, are important benefits that weren't considered at the time of the purchase because I was so **** focused on PTO hp and the idea that a 3-range hydro was the cat's meow. I just didn't consider that the transmission isn't as important on my property and for my applications.

Overall, it's the brake position and pedal configuration driving this conversation and effort to replace the tractor. It's another costly lesson if I follow through, but one that's worth sharing I guess to keep the next person from making a mistake (not that buying a Kubota's a mistake - don't get me wrong - more the benefit of collective stories to let people make informed decisions, rather than in the "bubble" of their own thoughts).

 

[JD755]

Since you previously owned a 2320 I'm guessing you are familiar with the discussions regarding the somewhat vulnerable fan under that tractor vs the more standard radiator on the 2520.

Can you tell me how Kubota says you are supposed to use turn brakes that are on the same side as the hydro pedal? Just something I have always wondered about. Thanks.

 

[BethesdaEC]

Since you previously owned a 2320 I'm guessing you are familiar with the discussions regarding the somewhat vulnerable fan under that tractor vs the more standard radiator on the 2520.

Can you tell me how Kubota says you are supposed to use turn brakes that are on the same side as the hydro pedal? Just something I have always wondered about. Thanks.

The 2305 has the exposed fan, not the 2320. As for the Kubota brakes, you use your right foot for the hydro pedal and your other right foot for the brakes. For those that don't have two right feet, I understand that is much more difficult. The brakes and the treadle were the big deal breaker for me.

 

[kennyd]

Since you previously owned a 2320 I'm guessing you are familiar with the discussions regarding the somewhat vulnerable fan under that tractor vs the more standard radiator on the 2520.

Can you tell me how Kubota says you are supposed to use turn brakes that are on the same side as the hydro pedal? Just something I have always wondered about. Thanks.

Only the 2305 has the fan The 2320 has a regular cooler.

 

[JD755]

Only the 2305 has the fan The 2320 has a regular cooler.

Thanks guys. My error.

 

[JD755]

The 2305 has the exposed fan, not the 2320. As for the Kubota brakes, you use your right foot for the hydro pedal and your other right foot for the brakes. For those that don't have two right feet, I understand that is much more difficult. The brakes and the treadle were the big deal breaker for me.

I've just wondered what the Kubota dealers tell their customers, and if the Kubota manual says anything. Since Kubota continues to build them this way I guess there must be some way to use them. Otherwise why even put them on there? Or maybe there really is no way to use them.

 

[glc24]

Can owners of the 2520 tell me if there's a REAL advantage? Is it the direct-inject engine? (which I can't really understand - do you just turn the key, even in extremely cold weather?). Is it the larger tires? Or is there something more that I'm missing?

I guess no "real" advantage,especially if you don't mind the slower hydraulics. A 2320 would have worked just as well as my 2520,but I went for just that little teeny bit more.
I don't regret it either. Love that 2520!:thumbsup:

Greg

 

[revitupfaster]

I got a new 2520 in October. I as well, was originally looking at a 2320. The 2320 seemed quite capeable to me, and probably would have worked fine had I went that way. There are a lot of folks here that have 2320's and are extremely happy with them.

These are a few of the things that made me go to the 2520:
I somehow felt that the 2320, since it was a much larger unit than the 2305, should have had a bigger motor. I don't know, maybe the engine in the 2305 is an overkill for that unit, and actually is appropriate for the 2320. Somehow, it just bothered me, and, for sure, that did play a role in my decision making.

I was impressed by the specs that indicated pretty much twice the hydraulic flow. Even though I have never had a loader, so I really had nothing to compare this to in the real world. To me, however, this was a significant difference, and in my opinion added real world value between the machines.

I was trading in an older Yanmar diesel, which was 27HP, and therefore a little concerned about going down in HP to the 2320, therefore the engine size, and the fact that is a "direct injected design" also added value in my mind.

I had a chance to see both a 2320 & a 2520 side by side, and to me, the 2520 somehow just had an overall appearance of a "beefier" tractor. I know there is not much real difference between the machines physically, but the 2520 to me just looked perfectly proportioned. I don't know what it was but thats the way it looked in my eyes.

Lastly, I had pretty much been given a firm quote on the 2320, which I was happy with, and thought "well just for laughs, I'll offer them another $2000 but upping the unit to the 2520, which by now was the machine I really wanted, knowing the real difference was in the $2500 range, and see what happens". Well to my surprise, my offer was accepted.

Lastly, Lastly......since this is probably going to be my last tractor purchase, I sure didn't want the old "buyers remorse" thing kicking in because I tried to save a few bucks. But like I said in the beginning, probably the 2320 would have been fine in the first place, but I also don't have any regrets going with the 2520.

Hey like a friend of mine said to me, that just spent $60 grand on a skidsteer, "I've never seen a Brinks truck following a Hearse".

REV

 

[snyder_man]

I don't know if this is true or not but when I was making my buying decision between the 2320-2520-2720, the salesman said that the 2520-2720 had greater hydraulic flow due to the pressure of two hydraulic pumps, where the 2320 only had one. Power steering, loader, transmission, 3 point duties were split across 2 pumps instead of one. I felt that was worth the extra money for the 2520 as I always had problems with other loader tractors running the power steering, loader, transmission, etc... off of a single pump.

snyderman

 

[k0ua]

I've just wondered what the Kubota dealers tell their customers, and if the Kubota manual says anything. Since Kubota continues to build them this way I guess there must be some way to use them. Otherwise why even put them on there? Or maybe there really is no way to use them.

The manual says nothing. some people are able to use their left leg. by crossing over the hump, I find that very awkward. I use the cruise control lever with left hand to keep forward direction speed going then use right foot to activate the split brakes for steering. Keep in mind this does not work in reverse, as the cruise control does not work in reverse.. I have not had to use split brakes much, as with hydro it is so easy to just reverse and see-saw so quickly. But split brakes can come in handy when pushing snow. and the cruise control method is a way to do it.
James K0UA

 

[bxowner]

Unfortunately, Kubota changed the manual/hand activated cruise to a lever you pull up on once you set the speed with the hydro pedal. So, that method doesn't apply to the current standard B-series.

 

[architect]

With my B and L Kubota's with HST I think I only ever used the brakes when loading it on the trailer, HST pedal is all you need.

 

[glc24]

I don't know if this is true or not but when I was making my buying decision between the 2320-2520-2720, the salesman said that the 2520-2720 had greater hydraulic flow due to the pressure of two hydraulic pumps, where the 2320 only had one. Power steering, loader, transmission, 3 point duties were split across 2 pumps instead of one. I felt that was worth the extra money for the 2520 as I always had problems with other loader tractors running the power steering, loader, transmission, etc... off of a single pump.

snyderman

This is true:thumbsup:

Greg