FEL control valve on YM1900

[Gary Sweat]

Looking good! I don't think your arms are any closer than my bulldog loader arms. It has tubing with short hoses coming off for joy stick and cylinders. Not near as neat as I have seen on other tractors but it's ok.

My biggest problems have been from making it convenient for me and strength at the points I thought it needed. The joystick is mounted 50 degrees to the upright arm and that has caused problems getting the hoses to flex without stretching the hose or stressing the connectors. It would have been much easier to put hoses on if the joystick had been straight up or horizontal but more of a stretch for my arm to operate.

The other is the sharp angle of the arms. I wanted to use this mostly for scraping and cutting down high spots around my place and thought the greater the angle the less stress on the arms. Problem is, it caused me to have to reverse the bottom cylinders to get the connectors to clear at the extreme up or down position. I may have to eventually settle for swivel connectors to clean up the routing. For now, I just want to get it going to see if it actually does what I hope it will.

If you have any photos of your loader, I would like to see them. Maybe I can get some ideas on how to make mine neater.

 

[winston1]

Here are some pictures. Not very good and as I stated, this installation is not all that neat. Might give you an idea or two anyway. Good luck to you.:thumbsup:

 

[Gary Sweat]

Here are some pictures. Not very good and as I stated, this installation is not all that neat. Might give you an idea or two anyway. Good luck to you.:thumbsup:

Thanks for the photos, they showed me some things I did wrong. I should have mounted the loader valve sideways like yours. Would have made putting the hoses on a lot easier. I will use them for reference this winter when I change the routing to a simpler and cleaner run. I can see also that I should have ordered 90 degree fittings for the pump lines. Maybe I can find them locally.

 

[deepNdirt]

Gary, here is the way Buhler rout their lines

 

[Gary Sweat]

Gary, here is the way Buhler rout their lines

Thanks for the photos. Between yours and Winston1's I have some ideas on how to get these lines finished. I see the loader valve is mounted horizontal. I probably should have done that instead of the 50 degree angle mine is set at. Would have made the hose bend radius work with shorter hoses.

I also like the line clamps they use. I've got some thin material that I think I can bend to the same shape. After wasting about 12' of steel line, I think I finally got the tubing bender figured out. When I get ready this winter to replace them, I'll have the lines and hoses made locally for me with different ends than what I'm using right now to clean it up.

The lines and hoses were the one thing I never gave much thought to when I decided to build the loader. Big mistake!

 

[Gary Sweat]

Yeee Hawww! The loader works! Still working on getting the air out of everything but it's getting better and so far, no leaks. That may change after it's been run a while but for now I'm happy. I'll put up some photos after I get through playing in the dirt.

 

[stormpetrel]

Nice!! Great job!!! )))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

 

[Gary Sweat]

Here are some pics of the finished loader. Keep in mind this is my first (and last) attempt at building a loader. I plan on reworking the lines and hoses this winter but first I wanted to play with it to see what breaks or isn't right. I still have to machine the bucket pins for it to be complete.

I do have a question about the working pressure. The relief doesn't kick in until 2,200 lbs on the gauge. Since this loader isn't going to be used for heavy work, should I lower the pressure down on the loader valve and would there be any benefit? Don't have any leaks yet but it seems high for what I will be needing it for. I just stuck the gauge on it while I'm testing it. I really like the joystick valve. Very smooth and you can move the loader and bucket extremely slow if you want.

 

[winston1]

Never put a gauge on my loader relief valve but I have on my 2002d 3 point relief valve. Relief valve goes off on it at about 2100#. I would imagine your 1900 is pretty close to that. I wouldn't think your loader relief valve should be any higher than your 3 point relief valve. If you have a repair manual that setting is probably in it. Loader looks good!

 

[deepNdirt]

good job :thumbsup: would you mind sharing with us how much you have invested in the FEL you built? we all know these cost new 3k+ and if one is lucky as I was can pick up a good used one for half cost of a new one, although I haven't a clue as to how much it would cost to build one?

 

[Gary Sweat]

good job :thumbsup: would you mind sharing with us how much you have invested in the FEL you built? we all know these cost new 3k+ and if one is lucky as I was can pick up a good used one for half cost of a new one, although I haven't a clue as to how much it would cost to build one?

The decision to build verses buying one for me was based on two things. 1) I wanted to build it as small as possible (and still be useful) so as not to overtax the tractor frame and steering and 2) I just wanted to see if I could do it. The only part I did not build (other than the hydraulics) is the bucket. I had that made.

I have learned over the years that you can build some things cheaper only if you do not factor in the labor, material waste, and you take a lot of time laying out everything. You are still going to miss something that will show up at the worst possible point in the build and have to rework something you have already put hours into. Here's how it breaks down.

Steel - $199.00
Bucket Fab - $550.00
Fabrication of steel plates - $180.00
Hydraulics - $1,302.00
Misc hardware - $26.00
Paint & primer - $41.00
Welding costs - I have no idea what the wire and electricity cost.

Total $2,298.00
Subtract from that about $80.00 in wasted steel, fittings and lines (learning to use the tubing bender) and you wind up with $2,218.00

It can be built cheaper and I would do a few things differently if I were to build another one (which I don't plan on) but the first one is a learning process. I did the machining on my lathe and milling machine and believe me, there are more small parts than you would think.

Overall, if you take the time and money to build a professional looking loader, you are not going (IMO), to come out ahead. Can't wait to start on the backhoe project

 

[Gary Sweat]

Finally found something to make the extended dipstick with. I settled on a piece of 8-32 brass all thread. Drilled and threaded the cap and used Vibra-TITE to lock it in. At least if it falls in the tranny, the gears should have no problem chewing up the brass:licking:

 

[Gary Sweat]

In regards to the transmission dipstick, I have a question:

Do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just set it on top of the hole to check the level? I ask this because it makes a difference of 1/2" on the stick. I can't find any reference to this in my service manual and I did search a bunch of posts but didn't find anyone asking about it. I never thought to check this in the past as I just put in the 4 gallons and left it at that.:ashamed:

Now that I have added the loader and made the longer dipstick I don't know which reading is correct and I would rather not have to take the lines off and put the original dipstick back in just to find out.

 

[careyo63]

Just came up on another forum. Just in to the Threads better to have a little to much then not enough.

Carey

 

[deepNdirt]

In regards to the transmission dipstick, I have a question:

Do you screw the dipstick all the way in or just set it on top of the hole to check the level? .

Gary, I've read that if the dipstick is the threaded type it should be removed and wipe the stick and then set it back in on top of the hole ( do not thread back in ) to get an accurate reading, although if it is a push in type stick then it should be pushed all the way in for the correct reading,

 

[Gary Sweat]

Thanks guys. I just never thought about how to check it. I always change the tranny oil every year and just pored in the 4 gallons as it was always the same amount when I drained it. The oil is always a tan color when I change it and assumed it was getting condensation in the the case from being hot and cold.