grapple do they make 12v electric drive ram

[badbowtie]

I have a small old b7100 gear drive so not a bunch of lifting capacity but would like to beable to reach into down trees with the bucket flip a switch and have the grapple come down and grab the log against the buck and let me back out and cut the log up easier. I don't have external hydraulics any were or any of the controls to add a hyd ram. I was goig to get 1/2 steel and make my grapple but just trying to figure out ram options. I have a bushog front end loader and don't have any extra ports on the joystick to do anyting there. I don't hve any block on the side of the tractor the controls for the front loader go down and hook straight to the metal line with fittings. The only electric ram thing I can think of is like a 12v trailer jack but that ain't going to work what else has anybody seen.

 

[zman007007]

The only 12 volt I know of is the kind like used on tailgates which is pressurized when you raise them, but actually weight is what brings them down, or makes them return. The only way you could use it is if you had heavy duty springs to help them return, to push the pistons back in. If you click on search above and type in my screename you will be able to see a post where I added a FEL to my B7100HST-E you will see the plate where you can add hydraulic attachments. Mine I had to drill and tap, but you can also buy the plate already made. If I can help you let me know. zman Pete

 

[Don87]

Check on 'electric over hydraulic' cylinders.
Northern tool has them, and the Cub Cadet 2160 I sold used one for the rototiller.

 

[Willl]

You could also do a electric hydraulic diverter like many of us have done. :thumbsup:

 

[vpd66]

A Linear actuator might work for what your talking about doing. Surplus Center has 2 pages of them ranging from 100lbs of lifting force up to 1000lbs. Basically they are electric driven screw jacks.

 

[jinman]

A Linear actuator might work for what your talking about doing. Surplus Center has 2 pages of them ranging from 100lbs of lifting force up to 1000lbs. Basically they are electric driven screw jacks.

Linear actuators will work, but they are much slower than hydraulics. Think about a Mighty Mule gate opener. If all you want is a stabilizing thumb type grapple, this might be a satisfactory method.

 

[badbowtie]

I am gong to take a couple pictures tomorrow t show you guys how my loader was plumbed i by previous owner and was searching arround o here and seen were peopled plumbed a single spool valve on the bottom of there joystick just ran inline with the feed hydraulic line and could do it that way. I am just trying to figure the best economical way of adding a grapple. On this size tracter shuld I still go 1/2 tines or just 3/8 with cross bracing.

 

[smiley]

If you can find one cheap enough, you might think about a electric snowplow lift with angle capability. That would give the open and closing potential. Although they're used with 2 single acting cylinders, I don't know why it wouldn't work with a double. You might even be able to adapt the valve from a hyraulic plow lift to work with your hydraulics.
Smiley.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOs7YieFax4

12v to power the pump to open/close the grapple they sold so you did not have to tap into the tractor's hydralics.:thumbsup:

 

[kennyd]

You could also do a electric hydraulic diverter like many of us have done. :thumbsup:

Yup. Search the term "diverter" in the hydraulics forum for hours of reading.

 

[badbowtie]

Thats same 12v ram they used on youtube is what I was trying to find and figure out how much they are and decide which way to go. The 12v Linear actuator I have searched for a 400.00 so I would be cheaper to by a single spool valve and go that way once it gets day light I will post some pictures.

 

[badbowtie]

Okay I have pictures to describe the way the hydraulics are all hooked up.
This picture is of the back of the joystick for the front end loader.

It looks like to me they just cut the metal line that runs to the back and added the two lines right in which are my feed and return for my front end loader.

Here is the picture were that hard line that I think they cut to add the front end loader line comes back to under the seat.

Here is a port that I have on the side of the joystick there is one on both sides. Not sure if they would do me any good to add a single spool valve in somewere.

 

[crazyal]

Yes. This is a (used) Western snow plow pump. It uses a starter moter to power the hydraulic pump and has an internal hydraulic ram that extends about 12" and I'm guessing is anywhere between 12 to 20 tons. The oil is stored inside the base.

I don't think it would run upside down so you would have to mount it to the FEL in a way that it would be facing sort of upright. The internal hydraulic ram would not be of use but it also has two hydraulic lines coming out of it that feed the angle cylinders. Those lines could be easily set up to operate a duel action cylinder for a grapple. All you would need to do is provide heavy guage wire for both power and ground, a wire to activate the electronic selenoid, and a couple of wires for the operation of the cylinder.

 

[badbowtie]

I am really thinking I may be better of just adding a single lever spool valv under my joystick if I can figure out how to plump it all up instead of adding all the extra weight or like a snowplow pump.

 

[jinman]

It would seem you've not come full circle to the point where most of the rest of us would agree. Just because you can do something a certain way doesn't mean you should. The diverter valve and a separate remote valve for a grapple is the best way to go for cost, convenience, and versatility. If you had a whole box of linear actuators bought at salvage to play with, that would be a fun project. But, if you have to go out and buy/build from scratch, hydraulics is the way to go.:thumbsup:

 

[tglass]

problem with that jinman is I think he is trying to run two remotes at the same time, which even the jd 3320 with power beyond will not do (it is not a true power beyond because the hyd. to the rockshaft (3-point hitch is where the hyd pressure is coming from, not like a normal power beyond)). Alot of equipment I take for granted will do two things at one time, but alot of newer equipment will not. power beyond will move two sep. hyd. cyl. with the same pressure or movement. Which brings up the mechanical aspect which I will not get into. I have tried to run a hyd cyl with a hyd. motor at the same time and the motor stops and guess what? no pressure to the motor. Not a true power beyond. The spool valves are not made to do so and at so little extra cost for the manufacturer. Another loss to a good company, but to address the problem, and I have too is there a simple quick and heavy duty long reach electric without a hyd pump (screw type) avaliable?

 

[danktx]

Do a search for "Hydraulic Actuator Snow Plow Tilt 12V Electric." Price is $71+$15. Specs says it will move 800# and has 8" stroke. Actuator is made by MARADYNE in Ohio. The division within MARADYNE is Hydramotion but when you click the link it errors out. They make a number of sizes and capacities.

Hope this helps and good luck.

 

[jinman]

If you want a compact electro-hydraulic actuator that is heavy duty and will work in all kinds of conditions, buy a boat motor power trim assembly from CMC manufacturing. I have one of these units that is converted to a bedlift for my Kawasaki Mule and it is a "hoss." I can dump 1200 lb easily.

 

[Zick]

Nice thought jinman, never would have thought about using a boat trim motor.

 

[badbowtie]

Okay guys I still have not done anything I am still looking around and not sure If I need to install some sort of hydrualic splitter to run line from. I was even searching to see if someone has added rear hyd lines on a older b7100 gear drive. Since they did not have rear factory lines I was looking to see what I could find and have not had great luck yet.