What is needed hydraulically for a grapple?

[/pine]

FWIW...I got this Prince valve (Wolverine series) for $75...I got a set of new "loader" hoses (a steal) on e-bay for $50...

 

[tr11439]

Not bad. Did you do the same setup as me? Was fairly easy and works great. I tried to keep it looking as factory as possible.

 

[tr11439]

FWIW...I got this Prince valve (Wolverine series) for $75...I got a set of new "loader" hoses (a steal) on e-bay for $50...

Saw your pictures. Basically same concept. Saves a lot of money and has same functionality. I just put QC on my lines in order to remove the loader.

 

[/pine]

Saw your pictures. Basically same concept. Saves a lot of money and has same functionality. I just put QC on my lines in order to remove the loader.

You did a really nice job...if my machine was a newer model I might have done more to make it look more "OEMish"...but I didn't want it to look entirely amateurish either...figuring where and how to put the valves/QD's was harder than the actual fab work...

I used the PB port on the FEL and "Tee'd" the return at the FEL valve...

I can remove the FEL without disturbing anything other than a couple of plastic straps securing the hoses...I can easily remove the grapple bar and or the cylinder (independently) when I have FEL work and don't need the grapple...there are QD's up front for the grapple cyl....

I also added a PB adapter to the rear (3ph) and added one single and one double spool valve at the rear... I really like the 'Wolverine' series valves that Prince makes for low GPM systems...can't beat the price and the quality is valid IMO...

 

[tr11439]

I just put my valve in line on the pressure line. Didn't have to use PB port or run another return. It uses the return on the FEL valve. I have a complete grapple that uses a skid steer attach. I upgraded the loader to the skid steer in order to change out faster and easier. All in all we saved money and got the job done. Looks goo too.

 

[radioman]

I have pondered the same thing. I bought a single spool valve and haven't gotten around to installing it for my BX24. sigh. I had a busy summer so haven't had time. I like the idea of a divertor using the FEL ports since it would stay on the tractor all the time due to design of BX24 and up. If I use the rear remotes, and need a hydraulic option in front, I would have to run steel lines inside of fender along the side of the rails to front.

 

[tr11439]

I have pondered the same thing. I bought a single spool valve and haven't gotten around to installing it for my BX24. sigh. I had a busy summer so haven't had time. I like the idea of a divertor using the FEL ports since it would stay on the tractor all the time due to design of BX24 and up. If I use the rear remotes, and need a hydraulic option in front, I would have to run steel lines inside of fender along the side of the rails to front.

I just ran my hoses along side the factory fel lines to the cross bar at the bucket and put QC on the ends to detach from the grapple lines. I used heavy duty zip ties to secure the lines to the factory ones.

 

[tr11439]

Pics of hoses

 

[dstig1]

Looks good, and a lot like what I did. I used a heavy (3/8" thick) alum angle section for the quick connector mounting plate. I got what I could find for that and then cut to fit - mainly I just cut off a good chunk of one leg. I re-used the screw holes that hold the hydraulic line cover in place, but with longer screws.

Routed the hoses up along the lines, and secured with UV-rated zip ties. I used 90deg fittings at the bracket to avoid a sharp bend in the hoses. That worked well. At the valve i also used 90 deg fittings (different style) to send the hoses in the right direction. The hoses going to the dump/curl circuit attached to the inputs of the valve, and 2 short hoses splice into the old dump/curl hard lines, where the hoses had attached.

Bolted the valve to the loader arm with a couple alum plates and screws. Screwed the valve to a thicker plate so I had enough thickness to tap the plate and get a good thread depth (plus loctite).


PS:
It turns out to be a good thing I used such a heavy mounting bracket for the quick connects. First off it does not flex when I push like the dickens to make the connections (very hard to do - and yes I have been through all the ways to relieve pressure from the circuit...including several discussions in this forum) but at one point in my first day of using the grapple it popped off the SS QA mounts when I slammed it up high to dump some stuff that wouldn't fall off. It popped off from 10' in the air and was hanging by the hoses and that bracket! Needless to say I was not pleased. Been trying to work with the manufacturer to fix it but we have not found a good solution quite yet. Improved it a bit, but I can still make it come off in certain situations.

 

[tr11439]

That looks very good. I really like the QC bracket on the front. Nice job.

 

[/pine]

This is what I did:

 

[IslandTractor]

This is what I did:

Why did you mount it to the grill guard rather than torque tube? Doesn't that require you to have extra long and potentially more vulnerable lines to the grapple?

 

[/pine]

Why did you mount it to the grill guard rather than torque tube? Doesn't that require you to have extra long and potentially more vulnerable lines to the grapple?

I got a complete set of Kubota Loader hoses (5) on e-bay for less than $50 ( a steal)...the lengths worked out perfectly... I did not use QD's at the valve so If the QD's were mounted on the loader it would create problems if I remove the loader...have not had any problems...

 

[ovrszd]

I see the advantage of Pine's method because of only needing one pair of QDs. But what I can't picture is what you do with all the extra hose needed to lift the loader to maximum height??

 

[ovrszd]

Not bad. Did you do the same setup as me? Was fairly easy and works great. I tried to keep it looking as factory as possible.

Can you go thru the plumbing for me one more time??

Here's what I have grasped so far. You disconnected the input pressure hose from your FEL valves and ran it to your new grapple valve. You plumbed two QDs to the grapple valve to hook your grapple hoses into. You built a short pressure hose that runs from the return/output of your new grapple valve to the input of your FEL valves.

So when the grapple valve isn't being used the pressure goes straight to your FEL valves as before. When using the grapple valve it's return goes to the FEL valves so you don't need a second return line.

To do this you have to use an open center valve for the grapple valve.

Only limiting factor is that you can't operate the grapple valve and the FEL valves at the same time because of limited flow capacity of the tractor.

This frees up the PB outlet on the FEL valves to be used for something else such as rear remotes or whatever.

Did I get it right?? Thanks for your clarity!!! :thumbsup:

 

[tr11439]

Can you go thru the plumbing for me one more time??

Here's what I have grasped so far. You disconnected the input pressure hose from your FEL valves and ran it to your new grapple valve. You plumbed two QDs to the grapple valve to hook your grapple hoses into. You built a short pressure hose that runs from the return/output of your new grapple valve to the input of your FEL valves.

So when the grapple valve isn't being used the pressure goes straight to your FEL valves as before. When using the grapple valve it's return goes to the FEL valves so you don't need a second return line.

To do this you have to use an open center valve for the grapple valve.

Only limiting factor is that you can't operate the grapple valve and the FEL valves at the same time because of limited flow capacity of the tractor.

This frees up the PB outlet on the FEL valves to be used for something else such as rear remotes or whatever.

Did I get it right?? Thanks for your clarity!!! :thumbsup:

You got it. That's exactly right.

 

[tr11439]

A pretty easy setup really

 

[Jay4200]

Rear remotes are about $750 from kubota. And that's not installed.

Each. I got quoted $1400 for a dual-remote kit (non-installed) for my L4200 from the dealer. My tractor is barely worth that. I'm going with a $200 2-spool valve set and a couple of $10 hoses instead .

JayC

 

[srs]

I just use one pair of my rear remotes... KennyV

Like others I used the rear remotes. I ran the lines under the tractor and to the left side of the engine. It got very tight on the right side that is why I went to the left side. I fabricated the metal brackets after I made a cardboard template, added quick disconnects, and fastened the hoses to the loader arm. Pictures might explain it a little better. I was waiting for one disconnect in the third photo so it is missing one QD. I use this (so far) for the angling of my loader snow plow.

 

[tr11439]

Each. I got quoted $1400 for a dual-remote kit (non-installed) for my L4200 from the dealer. My tractor is barely worth that. I'm going with a $200 2-spool valve set and a couple of $10 hoses instead .

JayC

Yea. That price was one set of remotes. Ridiculous