4310 brakes hanging

[chickenman]

Part #2 is the cam shaft?

Why not take it apart and fix it? There isn't all that much to it according to the tech manual.

that's not my major problem at the moment

and to fix it you have to take the side of the transaxle off, a lot of work

usually they free up with a little travel, you wouldn't accept that in a car

 

[arrabil]

I guess I don't see that as a lot of work.

Good luck with the electronics. There were a lot of problems with them initially. I specifically bought a model without them even though I hear the eHydro is very cool. It'll probably last you a long time after you get it repaired with updated parts.

 

[dfkrug]

They don't seem strong enough to disengage a stuck brake.

I don't think they are strong enough to disengage a stuck brake. There
are a lot of places where you get friction in the whole linkage system....
I have had EVERYTHING apart, including the friction discs and plates inside
the axle housings. Especially trouble-prone are the greasable pivots inside
the bell housing, IMO. Even a slight bit of additional dragging caused by the
bellcrank not returning to the not-engaged position can be a performance
problem.

BTW, the brakes on my 4300 work very well now, despite the hours and
the previous hard rental life.

 

[arrabil]

Especially trouble-prone are the greasable pivots inside the bell housing, IMO. Even a slight bit of additional dragging caused by the bellcrank not returning to the not-engaged position can be a performance problem.

I very much agree with that. I had all the linkages apart and made sure they worked like they should before I could get the brakes adjusted properly.

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

 

[chickenman]

I very much agree with that. I had all the linkages apart and made sure they worked like they should before I could get the brakes adjusted properly.

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

and my question is would someone buy a new car like that?

other design deficiencies I think are the steering wheel tilt, the trans range shift, wiring, and that silly little green piece of plastic on the front underside stuck on with double sided tape that fell off not to mention the exorbitant prices for parts.


and the manual I bought to work on the tractor that doesn't cover the electrical system on my tractor because changes were made not in the manual

do you hear that jd, you owe me a new manual so I can fix my tractor

 

[arrabil]

And you didn't buy a new car. You bought a used 4310. And you have all the known problems. Much like every used car I buy winds up with most of the known problems for that model and year.

Besides, I don't operate my car in a field most of the time. And actually, the car I do operate in a field needs more maintenance than my tractor does to keep it running in top shape. Exposed disc brakes and flexible hydraulic lines in a tractor/farm environment would be a non-starter for most people.

It sounds like you should buy a different brand of tractor. It'll make you happier.

 

[chickenman]

And you didn't buy a new car. You bought a used 4310. And you have all the known problems. Much like every used car I buy winds up with most of the known problems for that model and year.

Besides, I don't operate my car in a field most of the time. And actually, the car I do operate in a field needs more maintenance than my tractor does to keep it running in top shape. Exposed disc brakes and flexible hydraulic lines in a tractor/farm environment would be a non-starter for most people.

It sounds like you should buy a different brand of tractor. It'll make you happier.

I bought the tractor new, went in asked how much and paid my money, sometime later I bought the manual thinking it covered my tractor, now I find out it doesn't and I have a tractor sitting there while I learn the electrical system and figure out what I'll need to get it moving again.

I have been to the dealer for info several times and have a mountain of paper print outs that still don't cover the electrics on the tractor

anyway I'm close to a solution, bad drive controller but I want to eliminate every other possibility before i spend that kind of money

it appears that i now know the electrical system better than the dealership

 

[dfkrug]

Did you notice any binding inside the housing like Chickenman is describing?

No. Once I got the brake bellcranks off (VERY HARD, see story), and the
axle housings separated, I could easily see that the plates and friction
discs were pristine and barely worn at all. I don't see how they can
lock up or stick together bathed in oil like that, unless left unused for
a long long time. (M/C clutches can stick, but they use many more plates.)

What I did notice is when everything was reassembled, and working very
smoothly, even the weight of components without any springs attached
could cause the brakes to drag. That's why I think that JD added the
ROPS bracket spring as a helper. If the brakes drag just a bit, I noticed
that turning the trans gears by hand was quite a bit harder.

The 4310 added lots of electrics, and lots of challenges, I am sure. I
have never driven the eHydro, or used the ePTO, but JD was sure
trying to innovate.

 

[arrabil]

What I did notice is when everything was reassembled, and working very
smoothly, even the weight of components without any springs attached
could cause the brakes to drag.

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot? I don't have any binding at all now that I've got them adjusted per the tech manual. I only bought new springs because I was already buying the valve adjustment parts. I will consider myself lucky then.

Chickenman, why don't you buy the right manual then? My TM1985 Dec 2002 doesn't split your tractor by serial number like the manual for my 4200 does. Though this website hints at there being a split at 139001. And JD Parts seems to split at 234502 for the controller. Either way, you should be able to get the right manual....

 

[chickenman]

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot? I don't have any binding at all now that I've got them adjusted per the tech manual. I only bought new springs because I was already buying the valve adjustment parts. I will consider myself lucky then.

Chickenman, why don't you buy the right manual then? My TM1985 Dec 2002 doesn't split your tractor by serial number like the manual for my 4200 does. Though this website hints at there being a split at 139001. And JD Parts seems to split at 234502 for the controller. Either way, you should be able to get the right manual....

when I bought it I thought it was the right manual

it was the only one at the time as the manual was behind the on tractor changes

i was not told of any changes

so I want the updates

I want what I thought I was getting, a manual for my tractor

the dealer said they would send in the request to jd but that was a week ago and no word

what does it cost to spin a cd ten cents?

 

[dfkrug]

You noticed dragging even with the 1" of free play for the rods in the crank slot?

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that
you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of
lever movement.

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

 

[chickenman]

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that
you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of
lever movement.

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

i dropped the link to the brake and still had to pound on the bell crank

 

[arrabil]

At rest, you want the brakes fully disengaged. In the inch of free play that you have the wet brakes start to resist at only the slightest bit of lever movement.

The lever/pedal/cam/whatever has 1" of free play on mine. As per the tech manual. Before the brakes begin to engage, you have to move all that at least an inch. Once you hit the end of that inch, its like you're saying, they start engaging immediately. Mine do not engage from linkage friction as far as I can tell (had the kid operating the pedals while I was under the tractor).

BTW, my 2 4300s have each of the 2 parking brake systems, hand lever, and
dash knob.

You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.

Once I got the brake bellcranks off (VERY HARD, see story)

I was looking at that today on my tractor. You have/try a slide hammer? I wonder if that makes it any easier?

i dropped the link to the brake and still had to pound on the bell crank

I would be pulling the final drive housing to repair that. Your brakes are alway on then and I can't see that being good for your wallet let alone the tractor. Those parts in there are very expensive.

 

[chickenman]

The lever/pedal/cam/whatever has 1" of free play on mine. As per the tech manual. Before the brakes begin to engage, you have to move all that at least an inch. Once you hit the end of that inch, its like you're saying, they start engaging immediately. Mine do not engage from linkage friction as far as I can tell (had the kid operating the pedals while I was under the tractor).


You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.


I was looking at that today on my tractor. You have/try a slide hammer? I wonder if that makes it any easier?


I would be pulling the final drive housing to repair that. Your brakes are alway on then and I can't see that being good for your wallet let alone the tractor. Those parts in there are very expensive.

first I have to isolate the electronic problem and get it going, it's looking more and more like a bad drive controller

 

[dfkrug]

You added that I take it? Thats pretty cool. What was required to add the dash knob? I have the lever. And I have a hole for the dash knob since I have new cowl panels and JD only sells the ones with the hole now.

JD changed from the early hand brake lever to the dash knob parking
brake latch in about 2001. That is just one of the many differences
between my rebuild project tractor, a 2000 model, and the later one.
Yours is much like my 2000.

Fortunately, I did not need to buy any brake parts from JD.....it would
be bad if you can not get the early parts any more.

I kinda like the hand brake. This and the Bolens-Iseki G274 are the only
tractors I have seat time on that have hand brakes. One problem is
that the JD handbrake takes some care to fully disengage. Maybe that is
why it was discontinued?

As for the bellcranks, they get a bit of corrosion between them and the
shafts. Both of mine required drilling for my strongest gear pullers.