4310 brakes hanging

[chickenman]

does any one have a problem with brake lockup?

 

[Brimstone10x]

hi chickenman . yes the brakes have been known to become stuck on 4310s but Im pretty sure it would drive thru the brakes or at least lug the engine down. I dont know if the park brake switch would disable the drive or not.

 

[chickenman]

hi chickenman . yes the brakes have been known to become stuck on 4310s but Im pretty sure it would drive thru the brakes or at least lug the engine down. I dont know if the park brake switch would disable the drive or not.

unfortunately I'm trying to do a calibration on the electronics and I need the wheels to spin freely

so I have to get the brakes loose to calibrate the controller, until then it's a paper weight and going nowhere

 

[Brimstone10x]

you may have to disconect the brake rods at the arm that is on the sides of the axle housing and knock the arms back toward the rear if they are sticking . when the cal is sucsesful the rear wheels will just move slightly at forward and revese bottom of travel then the lite should stay off. yes i have been through all this before so just hope Im being helpful .

 

[chickenman]

you may have to disconect the brake rods at the arm that is on the sides of the axle housing and knock the arms back toward the rear if they are sticking . when the cal is sucsesful the rear wheels will just move slightly at forward and revese bottom of travel then the lite should stay off. yes i have been through all this before so just hope Im being helpful .

that is what i thought i'd have to do

take the rubber hammer i carry on the tractor to them

what model did you have to calibrate, did it have the flywheel sensor?

 

[jdgreg]

One brake stuck on my 4210. After working it loose with a hammer, wrench, and a lot of penetrating oil, I hooked a ver strong bungee to it and to the back of the tractor. This helps to disengage it. Everytime I hop on I would also give the shaft a good coating of penetrating oil.

 

[dfkrug]

There are helper springs on each side's brake bellcrank. They attach to the
bottom ROPS brackets. The springs are quite strong, but can rust up
or get knocked off. Are they missing?

 

[arrabil]

I just bought new ones last week. I wouldn't call them "quite strong." I was disappointed in the strength of them. I think they're just there to reset the 1" of free play you're supposed to have. They don't seem strong enough to disengage a stuck brake. I spent a lot of time on the brakes that last couple weeks.... I wouldn't expect them to solve any problems with the brakes except making the pedal feel good during initial engagement and at the end of release. Sorry for disagreeing with you dfkrug!

 

[chickenman]

I just bought new ones last week. I wouldn't call them "quite strong." I was disappointed in the strength of them. I think they're just there to reset the 1" of free play you're supposed to have. They don't seem strong enough to disengage a stuck brake. I spent a lot of time on the brakes that last couple weeks.... I wouldn't expect them to solve any problems with the brakes except making the pedal feel good during initial engagement and at the end of release. Sorry for disagreeing with you dfkrug!

along with the tilting steering wheel the brake design is less than stellar

I'm thinking of putting something to assist in unsticking them, I have a couple things in mind

 

[arrabil]

I can't agree with that either. They are somewhat complicated from a linkage standpoint but they are effective and highly adjustable. When I finally figured out how it all worked together it only took an hour to get everything back to factory specs.

They are obviously complicated enough that many people just shouldn't touch them. Mine were way off in their adjustment. Someone had spent a lot of time screwing them up. Makes you wonder whether they are too complicated for the average assembly guy at the service shop too as I don't know why you'd ever touch them after they were set at initial delivery.

 

[chickenman]

I can't agree with that either. They are somewhat complicated from a linkage standpoint but they are effective and highly adjustable. When I finally figured out how it all worked together it only took an hour to get everything back to factory specs.

They are obviously complicated enough that many people just shouldn't touch them. Mine were way off in their adjustment. Someone had spent a lot of time screwing them up. Makes you wonder whether they are too complicated for the average assembly guy at the service shop too as I don't know why you'd ever touch them after they were set at initial delivery.

the rotating plate with the ramping balls in my opinion is a source of friction lock

 

[arrabil]

I don't know what ramping balls are. Which parts in the diagrams are you referring to?

I would think its shaft #10 that sticks against the housing because the brakes are used so rarely on an HST. The range shift sticks there from many previous posts, my mid-PTO used to stick there, and I'm guessing its just a common problem when the linkages aren't used often. I've gotten into the habit of operating every knob and lever every time I use the tractor (mainly because I store it outside).

 

[chickenman]

I don't know what ramping balls are. Which parts in the diagrams are you referring to?

I would think its shaft #10 that sticks against the housing because the brakes are used so rarely on an HST. The range shift sticks there from many previous posts, my mid-PTO used to stick there, and I'm guessing its just a common problem when the linkages aren't used often. I've gotten into the habit of operating every knob and lever every time I use the tractor (mainly because I store it outside).

the part marked 17 the left most plate and the star shaped plate

the plate with the lug is rotated by the cam the star shape is stationary in between them are balls in machined ramps as the plate is rotated the ramps force the balls up and increase the spacing between the plate and the star, this movement squeezes the friction plates between the no rotating disks

this whole chain of events is subject to friction, from the rotating cam against the lug to the balls ramping

a better word would be stiction, a real word by the way

 

[arrabil]

Isn't all of that submerged in fluid?

 

[chickenman]

Isn't all of that submerged in fluid?

yes but thats not always a cure all especially on something used as seldom as the brakes on the average ehydro

the cam i think would be the worst offender

 

[arrabil]

Yeah I guess it isn't. Sounds like you got it all figured out though. Take some pictures. I'd like to see the details.

 

[chickenman]

Yeah I guess it isn't. Sounds like you got it all figured out though. Take some pictures. I'd like to see the details.

I'm not taking that apart

 

[arrabil]

How did you determine thats the problem if you didn't take it apart?

 

[chickenman]

How did you determine thats the problem if you didn't take it apart?

I had to hammer on the cam shaft to free it even after I removed the linkage

and years ago i had a motorcycle with a similar arrangement for the starter motor that was troublesome, only its problem was slipping

it's not a brake system you'd want in a car

but then It's a good thing I don't have to use the brakes a lot

 

[arrabil]

Part #2 is the cam shaft?

Why not take it apart and fix it? There isn't all that much to it according to the tech manual.