Buying Advice Yanmar YM1700

[careyo63]

If it's has the same Overun clutch as I do there is a ( PIN) still in the shaft. The same length as the inner portion of the overun clutch so the outer part will spin around it.Look hard at the pic and you can see the O/C that is attached to the shaft and guessing it's the same. I bought my Ym 2000 as is also an now that I have it in good working condition I've started to work on the cosmetics. Just using spray paint that Hoye has also it's starting to look pretty good.

Carey

 

[branman1971]

If it's has the same Overun clutch as I do there is a ( PIN) still in the shaft. The same length as the inner portion of the overun clutch so the outer part will spin around it.Look hard at the pic and you can see the O/C that is attached to the shaft and guessing it's the same. I bought my Ym 2000 as is also an now that I have it in good working condition I've started to work on the cosmetics. Just using spray paint that Hoye has also it's starting to look pretty good.

Carey

It looks the same as far as I can tell. I guess I will leave it on, but I do want to know how to get it off. Your cosmetics look terrific Carey. What do you do to prepare the parts before you spray em? Any sanding or priming?

 

[careyo63]

No just cleaned it real good. It was the same old faded red and white as yours was. Looking at your pic. your probably going to have to do some sanding.I would put the pressure washer to it and see how much of the Grn. comes off. If you have a Harbor Frieght nearby they have a El Cheapo small sand blaster that would probably work great for your needs. For what you have in it you can't go wrong fixing/cleaning it up.What a Deal!!!It would be well worth it even if you had to Sand it by hand. :thumbsup:

Carey

 

[Neat 1500]

either that or you can get it soda blasted which will remove the puke green and not damage the red underneath

 

[branman1971]

If you have a Harbor Frieght nearby they have a El Cheapo small sand blaster that would probably work great for your needs

Carey

Like this? http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-30979.html

 

[clemsonfor]

Like others said thats the oerrun clutch. you will have to push the release button on the drive shaft, thats kind of under the colar. To remove the overrun clutch with the shaft still connected (what you were trying to do) you will have to drive that roll pin out.

 

[YanmarEd]

Well, I did it. I tested it out best I could, every gear and in high and low, PTO, brakes, etc. No issues with anything until I got it home. Once home I had to raise the mower deck all the way up to get the tractor off of the trailer and then it wouldnt go back down. I tapped on the solenoid under the seat and down it came. Aside from that, it doesnt need much I dont think. The temp light stays on from even cold start up so I will need to figure that out. It has always been like he said. I got the headlights to work, cool. The left brake is disconnected under the floorboard so I will need to connect it and see why it was disconnected. Back tires show some dry-rot but hold air. Tractor came with a new operators manual that says these were built between 1975 and 1977 and says that the manual is for a gray market tractor, so i guess mine is gray? Decompression lever was seized I thought at first but it moves now. The guy i bought it from knew nothing about the lever. 694 on the hour meter but havent noticed it working yet. Radiator has a neat-o bug screen on the front of it, full of bugs of course. This is my first tractor so im pretty excited.

I have one almost Identical even the green paint I have had 1 prob in 3years that was a broken shifter fork and I work mine pretty hard

 

[branman1971]

I have one almost Identical even the green paint I have had 1 prob in 3years that was a broken shifter fork and I work mine pretty hard

That is definitely good news to hear my friend.

 

[deepNdirt]

Did you get your 3-pnt lift problem resolved?

 

[branman1971]

Did you get your 3-pnt lift problem resolved?

No, I left it on there for the time being. I do not understand how to get the O/C off and havent had time to get a good look at it yet but will get on it when i get back in town. I guess there is a release of some kind under the collar?

 

[careyo63]

I'm guessing this is what you have. If so Your going to need a alan wrench to remove the alan /screw cap and remove the Grease Fitting/Zerk. After you remove that use a 1/4 Drill Bit and line up the outer holes to the Roll Pin or the inner part of the O/C. It goes through the PTO shaft. Use the drill bit to tap the Roll Pin through the outer part of the O/C. Pull it out and it should slide right off Here a better pic and the alan cap the Grease zerk is already off on the other side

 

[branman1971]

Yep, thats what I got. Ok so I will take out both the allen screw and the grease fitting and then drive out the roll pin that is inside the O/C until it comes through the outside of the O/C. I think I understand.

 

[careyo63]

Good wasn't a waste of time You should only have to remove 2 either 2 alan or 1 of each which ever ones are directly across from each other so your punch can go in one and the pin comes out the other. It can be a PITA. getting them lined up so do yourself a big favor and clean it up good so you can see the holes next time

Carey

 

[California]

Is there any reason to take it off?

 

[branman1971]

Is there any reason to take it off?

Nope, no reason to take it off except that I just think for some reason I should know how to do it. :confused2:

 

[careyo63]

Your just about have to and or get use to shortening Pto shafts. I've had to on every one of my Imp. My Tiller that is the only one I have to remove it for and not going to cut up another PTO Shaft and go through all of that BS. again. It still was to long having to cut both sections. They finaly sent me another shaft after makeing the one in the pic. fit but still without the O/C which I can live with not really needing it with the tiller so I just keep everything handy to remove it. If I tilled much more than our garden probably be doing it anyway to try and add a slip clutch. I'm not sure this is the correct one either :confused2:

carey

 

[deepNdirt]

No, I left it on there for the time being. I do not understand how to get the O/C off and haven't had time to get a good look at it yet but will get on it when i get back in town. I guess there is a release of some kind under the collar?

actually I was referring to when you stated the Lift wouldn't come back down
if this happens again you might as well replace the O-ring inside on the plunger/Piston...or it could happen when least expect it and get where it won't come back down at all, (like mine did)

No issues with anything until I got it home. Once home I had to raise the mower deck all the way up to get the tractor off of the trailer and then it wouldn't go back down. I tapped on the solenoid under the seat and down it came.

......................................................................
and also as mentioned there should be no need to remove the Overrun clutch (although good to know how to) our Cut Tractors have a Non-Live PTO and needs this type clutch to relief stress on the transmission/rearend while a cutter is in use, I read lately about someone "snapping off the PTO shaft" due to most likely the drive shaft not being correctly shortened to account for the OR-clutch thus causing it to be too long when in full lift, although not sure of the exact circumstances on that incident, and to also mention the OR-clutch helps with allowing the tractor to be stopped easier with less stress and wear on the brakes:thumbsup:

 

[careyo63]

Hey California, What do you use on your RS1400 a Slip Clutch. If your able to HOW??? Last time I used it I bent the short top Link not the bracket on a stump that was missed and buried. Still CRS sometimes getting better but I don't believe I can shorten the smaller shaft enough either

carey

 

[California]

I'm running the RS1400 tiller without a slip clutch, which is probably not a good idea.

 

[careyo63]

I had a feeling you was going to say that and I'm running the long arms also. Not much of a doubt now when your going to have to remove the O/C.

Carey