Kubota drawbar hole diameter??

[beppington]

Went to pop in 2" ball with a 1" shaft into my Kubota drawbar ... & it doesn't fit. Dangit!

It's not like it doesn't fit by a lot, like a 7/8" shaft is needed. It's very close. It seems to be the thickness of the paint inside in the hole plus maybe a sliver more of metal.

Am I missing something? Do I need to sand the hole to get rid of the paint?

Is there actually a ball shaft with a diameter of like 31/32"??

 

[asylum575]

I'm pretty sure it's 3/4"

Hitch balls normally come in 3/4" and 1" shank for the 1 7/8 and 2" balls.

The smallest shank for the 2 5/16" is 1"

The 2 5/16" ball may have a larger shank for the 10K rating.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Try this. FYI, install nuts before using. Philip.

 

[thetooth]

I just bought a 2" ball 1" shaft from home depot yesterday it fit fine on my new to me B7500 . I measured the 2nd hole behind the large hole and it measured 3/4" .

 

[beppington]

Try this. FYI, install nuts before using. Philip.

Why did you have to go to this length? Is there some reason not to just put a ball right into the Kubota bar? (besides my little hole-too-small issue)

 

[rjkobbeman]

Try this. FYI, install nuts before using. Philip.

I would be worried about reduced tongue weight because of you effectively increasing the length of the draw bar. There is more leverage to lift the front end off of the ground. You also made it easier to bend your draw bar on the tractor (or damage related components).

I would think you vastly reduced the tongue weight your tractor can now safely carry. I'm sure an engineer can chime in with numbers, but I think those few extra inches equates to a lot of leverage.

Even if you have a load balanced so that there is not too much tongue weight, you also introduced leverage to move your rear end sideways easier. This can cause the rear end to slide when turning -- either pulling or slowing the load.

 

[beppington]

I'm pretty sure it's 3/4"

I'm talking about the biggest hole at the end of the Kubota draw bar. Definitely not 3/4". The 1" shafted ball almost fits, just not quite, & seems like probably a hair more than just paint removal would be needed.

I was think maybe it was metric :confused2:

I'll just take my circle template & measure it & see what's going on.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Why did you have to go to this length? Is there some reason not to just put a ball right into the Kubota bar? (besides my little hole-too-small issue)

I can use different drawbars to move ball height up and down. I can also quickly switch between ball diameters. Philip.

 

[PHILIP8N]

I would be worried about reduced tongue weight because of you effectively increasing the length of the draw bar. There is more leverage to lift the front end off of the ground. You also made it easier to bend your draw bar on the tractor (or damage related components).

I would think you vastly reduced the tongue weight your tractor can now safely carry. I'm sure an engineer can chime in with numbers, but I think those few extra inches equates to a lot of leverage.

Even if you have a load balanced so that there is not too much tongue weight, you also introduced leverage to move your rear end sideways easier. This can cause the rear end to slide when turning -- either pulling or slowing the load.

I have had 750 pounds tounge weight on this without a problem. Seriously now, we are moving a trailer from the back of the shed to the front of the shed at 4 mph, not going down the highway at 70 mph.

I normally use this set up so I don't have to mess with the trailer jack. Again, I have had up to 750 pounds tounge weight on this many times without a problem. Philip

 

[rjkobbeman]

I have had 750 pounds tounge weight on this without a problem. Seriously now, we are moving a trailer from the back of the shed to the front of the shed at 4 mph, not going down the highway at 70 mph.

I normally use this set up so I don't have to mess with the trailer jack. Again, I have had up to 750 pounds tounge weight on this many times without a problem. Philip

Fair enough.