How do you test a used machine?

[helvit]

I noticed a BX1500 with FEL and 3 pt. hitch, 234 hours on the meter, on a lot with a dozen pieces of used landscaping machines and larger tractors. Closed today.

It's something I could use around my property of five acres, 75% woods. I have a good mower. The loader is the important part here.

Primary uses would be 1)cleaning up parts of the wooded area, scraping out some briar and other underbrush, piling downed branches, etc. 2) moving logs, soil, rocks, mulch, gravel 3) snow removal 4) having one to mess with after thinking about it for 33 years.

Is the tractor and FEL a good snow removal setup, for snows between 6 inches and the occasional 2 feet?? Drive area is gravel, pretty level, only about 75 feet long, opening up to a parking/turn around area about 35 X 35 feet. I've always done it with my trusty walk behind snowblower.


The "dealer" is new in that location. It was a JD dealership, now doesn't have any manufacturer affiliation. I don't see anything new for sale. So I have no great trust in or references for them.

If the price is good ($6000?), how do I go about sounding the machine out?

 

[helvit]

He's asking for 7500. Seems high, right?

 

[dex3361]

He's asking for 7500. Seems high, right?

May not be to far off the going price. I would go to BARLOW TRACTOR and see what they have in the used realm I bought a used BX1500 from him a little over a year ago. I gave $5500 for mine with a 54" MMM and a grill guard and it had 100 hours on it. Keep in mind I bought it at the saame time as a new larger tractor.

 

[TripleR]

As to your first question, it depends on the machine. If it is a pretty good sized tractor, I have my brother who is a mechanic check it out and if he wasn't available I would pay to have someone go over it and check for leaks, "patches" etc. On a BX1500, if you are already are an owner, you should be able to tell by looking at it, ie fluid levels/color, worn areas and all the functions, hoses, belts and such. If not, get a friend who is familiar with them to go with you. I have owned two BX models and think I could spot any problem areas as there really isn't a whole lot to them.

The BX1500 should do all the the tasks you mentioned quite well.

 

[thetooth]

i did a search at Tractor House and the pricing was not that out of line . it all depends on your area prices can vary by quite a bit . also you can try checking closed ebay auctions to try and gauge pricing .

if you Goggle Tractor Appraisal i found a link to Iron Search for a free appraisal that is catered toward your specific area .

good luck

 

[helvit]

Good to hear the price isn't out of line, because it looks exellent. But I never had one, so I'm stuck so far with common sense. All hoses and fittings look clean, grease attended to. I found two dipsticks-- one near the rear "oil" filler ( transmission) and one on the right side of the front axle. Fluids marking those sticks were midway bewteen the lines and so clear that I needed my glasses and a touch test to make sure it was there at all. So they were just recently changed and not run, I guess. I'll run it for 20 minutes or so and look again. And try and locate an online operator manual to read.

Didn't open the hood... the place was closed and I can get back. Felt a little like "tampering" with the man's goods. Bar-type tires look good, I can't judge the amount of wear. 234 hrs. No leaking fluid anywhere and it has sat right there in the lot for maybe a month. No ballast box. Just scratches on the bucket.

Other threds here mentioned the exposed transmission filter. Definitely needs a heavy skid plate there. Pretty complicated shape to get it properly bolted in place. 1 bend, at least two welded flanges, four holes drilled... or something else maybe. But a surprisingly rugged looking little thing, my wife is for it, and I ought to spring for it. So I guess the idea is to test operate it, listen, watch, move everything, put the bucket down and lift the front end ( I take it that pressure tests the hydraulics). I know some guys with tractors but their not great tractor mechanics either.

Bucket good enough for snow? Why bother with a snowblowing attachment?

Hey-- thanks.

 

[thetooth]

if you are buying from a dealer try and get some type of warranty even for 7 days . if the dealer is confident in their used product it should not be a problem . you may also try and get a "free" service out of them .

 

[thetooth]

Used Tractors at TractorHouse.com: John Deere Tractors, used farm tractors and farm equipment, Case IH, New Holland, Agco, Caterpillar.

free appraisal

Official Farm Equipment Guide

here are the links . if this is not appropriate ( to link other sites ) i apologize and please delete .

 

[BXpanded]

I found two dipsticks-- one near the rear "oil" filler ( transmission) and one on the right side of the front axle. Fluids marking those sticks were midway bewteen the lines and so clear that I needed my glasses and a touch test to make sure it was there at all. So they were just recently changed and not run, I guess.

It's pretty normal for the hydraulic oil and front axle oil to be clear after many hours.

 

[dex3361]

If you start the BX1500 do not be alarmed if it shakes a lot at idle. these have a 2 cylinder diesel and all you have to do is bump up the throttle a bit. I would drive it around a little and see if the HST is smooth. Try out the PTO in the rear and also try out the MMM, it runs off of the mid PTO. Note how easy or hard it starts. I usually turn the key to the glow plug direction for a few seconds on cold start even if the temp is 70 degrees or better. Check the fluids before you start it up the rear diff dip stick is behind the seat. I would check the front axle oil as well.

 

[helvit]

Done deal. And she runs like a fine watch, to me. I'm taking a quick coffee break at the keyboard before going back out to the shop-- but I'm paralyzed without the manuals right now. Seller thought he had them (seems like a trustworthy soul), is working on it.

Meanwhile, I'd like to at least change the engine oil, which looks dark.

I could use some instruction.. how do I know which filter, capacities, recommendations for viscosity ( brand? synthetic or no?) etc.

She's a beautiful little thing! Yes indeed.

 

[sweettractors]

I noticed a BX1500 with FEL and 3 pt. hitch, 234 hours on the meter, on a lot with a dozen pieces of used landscaping machines and larger tractors. Closed today.

It's something I could use around my property of five acres, 75% woods. I have a good mower. The loader is the important part here.

Primary uses would be 1)cleaning up parts of the wooded area, scraping out some briar and other underbrush, piling downed branches, etc. 2) moving logs, soil, rocks, mulch, gravel 3) snow removal 4) having one to mess with after thinking about it for 33 years.

Is the tractor and FEL a good snow removal setup, for snows between 6 inches and the occasional 2 feet?? Drive area is gravel, pretty level, only about 75 feet long, opening up to a parking/turn around area about 35 X 35 feet. I've always done it with my trusty walk behind snowblower.


The "dealer" is new in that location. It was a JD dealership, now doesn't have any manufacturer affiliation. I don't see anything new for sale. So I have no great trust in or references for them.

If the price is good ($6000?), how do I go about sounding the machine out?

If the seller has nothing to hide, you should be able to get on the tractor and drive and try out every feature until you are satisfied. After warming the tractor up for about 30 minutes while checking all the gears and guages.Put the loader up against something that is solid and try to push it. That will check out the clutch. Try to lift a few hundred pounds with the loader, that will check out the loader hydraulics. Back 1 arm of the tractor 3 point under something solid like the bumper of another tractor and try to lift up, the front of the 1500 should come off the ground or you will lift the tractor. This whole process should take about a hour. We let our customers see the tractor on the Dyno if they request it. That is how we buy tractors and sell them. Ken Sweet

 

[helvit]

Uh oh. Thanks sweet... but I brought it home already.

Now for the uh oh part... seems to me I did the front end hydraulics test by lifting the front end like on all the youtube videos. But maybe I didn;t do it high enough? Because now in the shop I can hardly get the front wheels off the ground. Is this signifiicant, or could there be a stop set up somewhere? How warmed up does it have to be?

 

[sweettractors]

Uh oh. Thanks sweet... but I brought it home already.

Now for the uh oh part... seems to me I did the front end hydraulics test by lifting the front end like on all the youtube videos. But maybe I didn;t do it high enough? Because now in the shop I can hardly get the front wheels off the ground. Is this signifiicant, or could there be a stop set up somewhere? How warmed up does it have to be?

I don't know of a stop. 30-45 minutes of driving and cycling the loader up and down should warm up enough. You should be able to raise the front end 2 ft off the grond, even after 3-4 hours of use.

 

[helvit]

Well thanks again. The downpour here let up enough to go out and do a little of what you first suggested and I think evrything is probably ok. Just a lot to learn and a touch of paranoia buying a used machine and not really knowing what I'm doing--- not used to that vulnerability. Anyway, I picked up some soaked soil, some pretty big rocks with no problem, started getting used to the loader controls, etc. and, like I said. probably OK. Just came out of the rain and read your latest--- haven't tried the " 1/2 hour/2 foot " test--- I'll get to it Friday. Much obliged, I'll get back to you here with my newbie stuff, if nobody minds. When I take the time to do decent searches, there's usually a thread around here somewhere that handles it. Amazing forums, amazing little machine. Testing..one...two....

 

[sweettractors]

Congratulations on your purchase. I could use a rig like that myself. Ken Sweet

 

[wvpolekat]

Uh oh. Thanks sweet... but I brought it home already.

Now for the uh oh part... seems to me I did the front end hydraulics test by lifting the front end like on all the youtube videos. But maybe I didn;t do it high enough? Because now in the shop I can hardly get the front wheels off the ground. Is this signifiicant, or could there be a stop set up somewhere? How warmed up does it have to be?

Was your foot on the brake? That will keep it from lifting the front end.

 

[Harvey9]

Helvit, a loader is "ok" for moving snow, a back blade on the 3 point works well and is relatively cheap. the BX are great machines.

Harvey

 

[dex3361]

Well thanks again. The downpour here let up enough to go out and do a little of what you first suggested and I think evrything is probably ok. Just a lot to learn and a touch of paranoia buying a used machine and not really knowing what I'm doing--- not used to that vulnerability. Anyway, I picked up some soaked soil, some pretty big rocks with no problem, started getting used to the loader controls, etc. and, like I said. probably OK. Just came out of the rain and read your latest--- haven't tried the " 1/2 hour/2 foot " test--- I'll get to it Friday. Much obliged, I'll get back to you here with my newbie stuff, if nobody minds. When I take the time to do decent searches, there's usually a thread around here somewhere that handles it. Amazing forums, amazing little machine. Testing..one...two....

What all did you get with the BX1500?

 

[bxkubota]

I had a BX1500 prior to my current BX25. With the buck in the near level position the front wheels will only come off the ground a few inches when the loader is in the down position. If you roll the bucket so the cutting edge is perpendicular to the ground and put the loader all the way down the front wheels should come off the ground about a foot. With the smaller engine on the BX1500 you should also have the throttle up as this will make everything work faster. Hope this information helps...