I plan on getting a new(one trip) 40' standard or high cube grey or beige sae container. Now I am wondering how level do these things have to be for the doors to work correctly because where I will be putting it at first isn't completely level? Also would solid concrete blocks be strond enough without breaking to put on the corners on the container? I figuered if I can get it on the blocks that will give me a few inches to get a jack under it to maybe level it up some. Another question it will be sitting near hard packed gravel from our semi's packing it down the past 30 years. Will it hurt the container on its bare bottom if we use a 850d case dozer or 380c skidder or even a 90hp kubota tractor to pull the container around on the hard packed gravel if later on we want to move it around on the lot? Do you guys think this new container will be good and secure to keep my atv's and other valubles in that I am araid id going to get stolen? THANKS!!!
Getting a new 40' shipping container need advise!
- Thread starter 04honda
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Willl
Elite Member
Level doesn't matter, it's a end to end twist that will mess up your door alignment.
They're designed to be supported on the corners only, I would suggest doing so.
Crossmember design will be the factor in if any damage will accure from dragging.
Plan on redoing the door lock design.
They're designed to be supported on the corners only, I would suggest doing so.
Crossmember design will be the factor in if any damage will accure from dragging.
Plan on redoing the door lock design.
DanD78
Platinum Member
Corner only support is correct. Make sure you have it up off the ground so it won't rust out. The two I have helped with we used solid concrete blocks and they have been there for several years.
Dan
Dan
kenstrac
Platinum Member, RIP
What I do is get 10' 8x8 PT 1 under front center and back I place them under when they deliver,I level the container by placing blocks under the PT directly under container.
Using the bucket or RR jack lifting the 8x8's out at furthest point after its level I cut the excess off and I use the 8X8 to nail the ramp to.
Using the bucket or RR jack lifting the 8x8's out at furthest point after its level I cut the excess off and I use the 8X8 to nail the ramp to.
J_J
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04honda
What do the 40 ft containers cost in your area? Here, they run about $2200. A 20 ft is about $1200
Rail road ties work out well, with shims.
A laser works real good at leveling. Set it up on a corner.
What do the 40 ft containers cost in your area? Here, they run about $2200. A 20 ft is about $1200
Rail road ties work out well, with shims.
A laser works real good at leveling. Set it up on a corner.
Well the cheapest new(one trip)standard 40' I have found so far would be coming from cincinnati. It is a gray one and it would cost $3900+800 shipping= $4700. I really woould like to have a high cube but they are hard around here to find new. Another place close to me sell used 40' standard for $2500 and $2800 for a high cube!
We use many of them for storage where I work. We found moisture build up in them was a problem with rust and corrosion building up on the parts stored within. We solved the problem by putting a wind turbine vent on one end and an intake hole on the other end. We covered the intake vent with rat wire to keep out birds and rodents. We also had some of the wood floors rot out before we started putting them up on blocks to allow ventilation under the container.
SPIKER
Elite Member
I would also check on insulated cold storage ones that way you get them with double walls and insulation between them. much better than the uninsulated ones I'm told...
You said coming from Cincinnati are you in ohio or ? I'm northern ohio and Cleveland is probably the closest but I have not seen much this way on buying them.
Mark
You said coming from Cincinnati are you in ohio or ? I'm northern ohio and Cleveland is probably the closest but I have not seen much this way on buying them.
Mark
Stimw
Elite Member
I've worked on them, in them, drove them down the road, picked up and delivered them with a 48' Landall trailer, moved them with a 15,000lb. forklift and a four high stack packer. Oh, and I own a 20'er!
They are strong enough to place with blocking at the corners. The doors can "rack" if not close to level. You don't want dead level, water can stand on the roof. The packers pick them up with the 4 corner pockets only. You can use logs under some of them to roll them, depends on the crossmembers, some stick down past the side rails. They actually move around pretty easy even though the 40'ers weigh a little ove 10,000lbs. You don't want a reefer, they are narrower inside with the insluation and you DON'T WANT ONE WITH FIBERGLASS SIDES!!! The caulking always leaks and the wood center rots big time.
They are secure right back to the doors. They sell a "C" lock/clamp that goes around the lock rods on both doors but a sledge hammer can bend the rods toward the center and it can be removed. The best bet is bolt a lock assembly to each door solidly and have a padlock inside a piece of pipe when it closes. The only way to open one of these is with a key or torch!
They are strong enough to place with blocking at the corners. The doors can "rack" if not close to level. You don't want dead level, water can stand on the roof. The packers pick them up with the 4 corner pockets only. You can use logs under some of them to roll them, depends on the crossmembers, some stick down past the side rails. They actually move around pretty easy even though the 40'ers weigh a little ove 10,000lbs. You don't want a reefer, they are narrower inside with the insluation and you DON'T WANT ONE WITH FIBERGLASS SIDES!!! The caulking always leaks and the wood center rots big time.
They are secure right back to the doors. They sell a "C" lock/clamp that goes around the lock rods on both doors but a sledge hammer can bend the rods toward the center and it can be removed. The best bet is bolt a lock assembly to each door solidly and have a padlock inside a piece of pipe when it closes. The only way to open one of these is with a key or torch!
JB4310
Super Member
I've got a twenty footer, I just leveled and raised the ground with road base. Expect all kinds of critters to make the underside of that thing there home 
I've got a wood chuck living under mine that had a liter last year.
Around here the 40 footers are only a tiny bit more expensive than the 20's. seems more people want the 20 footers. For the 40 footer try and get the midway door, tend to pack stuff in the back of the longer ones and have trouble getting to it.
I ran 3 foot deep pallet racking down 1 side, floor to ceiling.
The closer to the ports you are the cheaper the price obviously, I paid $2400 for mine that looked almost new at the time.
Oh yeah, they do get hot!
JB.
I've got a wood chuck living under mine that had a liter last year.Around here the 40 footers are only a tiny bit more expensive than the 20's. seems more people want the 20 footers. For the 40 footer try and get the midway door, tend to pack stuff in the back of the longer ones and have trouble getting to it.
I ran 3 foot deep pallet racking down 1 side, floor to ceiling.
The closer to the ports you are the cheaper the price obviously, I paid $2400 for mine that looked almost new at the time.
Oh yeah, they do get hot!
JB.
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Wis Bang
Gold Member
Most containers are not 'one trip' units. They are leased to the various steamship companies for 5 years. I worked for an intermodal motor carrier and have been involved in the claims for stolen units. They are valued by the remaining depreciation yet the insurance comes up w/ ACV [actual cash value] and $3,900 is the value of one a few years old...
They are frequently stolen; we had one recovered after 10 months. The insurance had paid it off and we decided not to buy it for the salvage value so it was sent to a junkyard. The chassis was only a year old and was worth 3x more than the box.
Super Cubes
New member
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I sell containers and I'd recommend that you use cut up wood for blocking. A previous person suggested cutting up an 8"x8", which is exactly what I'd recommend. Once the container is relatively level, you can test the doors. As you load the container, it may shift a little further. If you're having problems with the doors, I'd recommend getting a car jack out for the problem corner and reblocking that corner.
If you want to move it around, you can drag it, but like a previous poster, make sure you don't snag the cross-members on anything or that will compromise the integrity of the box.
I also agree - skip the refrigerated/insulated containers. They are far more hassle than they are worth and if you ever want to modify the container, it will be a complete headache. Oh, and you get to pay about 4 times as much for a refrigerated container than you do for a regular one.
Once you get your container, if you want to add in venting (or windows, doors, etc), I have kits for installing those yourself. They have a frame designed to fit in the corrugation of containers and are easy to install.
As far as pricing goes, it really depends on what part of the country you are in and how far you are from the nearest city with containers. But as a general rule, the new 40's are well over $4000, but a good, used 40' or 40' high cube run around $2000 plus delivery. (Note, if you're in the Mountain time zone, those numbers are completely different.)
If you want to move it around, you can drag it, but like a previous poster, make sure you don't snag the cross-members on anything or that will compromise the integrity of the box.
I also agree - skip the refrigerated/insulated containers. They are far more hassle than they are worth and if you ever want to modify the container, it will be a complete headache. Oh, and you get to pay about 4 times as much for a refrigerated container than you do for a regular one.
Once you get your container, if you want to add in venting (or windows, doors, etc), I have kits for installing those yourself. They have a frame designed to fit in the corrugation of containers and are easy to install.
As far as pricing goes, it really depends on what part of the country you are in and how far you are from the nearest city with containers. But as a general rule, the new 40's are well over $4000, but a good, used 40' or 40' high cube run around $2000 plus delivery. (Note, if you're in the Mountain time zone, those numbers are completely different.)
Frankdozer
Silver Member
Super Cube,
How can I contact you for the windows and vents you sell?
How can I contact you for the windows and vents you sell?
2manyrocks
Super Member
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- Jul 28, 2007
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- 9,528
HOw do you determine if a container is stolen? Is there a way to check before you buy?
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