kenstrac
Platinum Member, RIP
I just went back and checked your old post is your pump mounted on the front of engine crankshaft if it is it's a closed system most older JD tractors are
JD Log Splitter SAGA Continues !!!
- Thread starter Thom2
- Start date
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kenstrac,
I was told since I was using the SVC lever pulled to the rear, it opened the flow, so I should use the control valve as an open center.
I have a plug where I can make the valve a closed center.
See Attached:
Still confused. ---Thom
I was told since I was using the SVC lever pulled to the rear, it opened the flow, so I should use the control valve as an open center.
I have a plug where I can make the valve a closed center.
See Attached:
Still confused. ---Thom
kenstrac
Platinum Member, RIP
Let go to the other board tom I think rick is there now
Leejohn
Elite Member
Thom did you check the #'s on that valve pr page 2 of your pdf file. Make sure it's the RD2575-T4-ESA1 and not RD2575-T3-ESA1. If its the T3 some one has taken the plug out and it got stocked as a T4.
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
I was think'n the same thing, but it kinda dont make sense either, the way it acts now....
But I'm ready to take the spool out and take a picture of it and post it here.....
See symbol drawing on this pdf....
Leejohn
Elite Member
I wonder with that valve if you remove the fittings on the A & B ports if you can see the spool. Boy if you can that should tell you something. Well lets see what Thom checks out next.
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
See if you can see the narrow part of the spooland the wider lands on both sides when moving the lever.....
Btw the work port B should be connected to tha capped area....and should there fore be named A to follow indusrty std...
This cross section is from a another Prince valve...
Diamondpilot
Super Star Member
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
If your hoses are getting warm that quick in that temp you have a blockage somewhere. I would start by taking off all the QC on both the remote and the hoses and cleaning them and putting them together with nothing hooked to them and visually check them.
Also sometimes its a good idea to get someone else who is handy with these types of things take a look at it. We can only help so much here and I know I get tunnel vision sometimes. It could be your pump, tractors pressure relief valve, ect, ect, ect. You have spent a bunch of time on this and spent some money on parts that may not be necessary.
I would also try to hook up the gauge temporarily directly to each remote and check the pressure when you move the lever for the remote.
Chris
Also sometimes its a good idea to get someone else who is handy with these types of things take a look at it. We can only help so much here and I know I get tunnel vision sometimes. It could be your pump, tractors pressure relief valve, ect, ect, ect. You have spent a bunch of time on this and spent some money on parts that may not be necessary.
I would also try to hook up the gauge temporarily directly to each remote and check the pressure when you move the lever for the remote.
Chris
Thanks Chris,
I'll keep fighting this. If I find any resolution, you can bet I'll post it here.
I spent over a week trying to figure this out. I don't give up easy. At least I'll have plenty of info when I talk to to my JD Dealer on Monday.
There's a company about 25 miles from me that sells hydraulic hoses and fitting, I'll see what they know.
Thanks to everyone, ---Thom
PS: If anything new come to anyone I'll be checking the site all weekend.
I'll keep fighting this. If I find any resolution, you can bet I'll post it here.
I spent over a week trying to figure this out. I don't give up easy. At least I'll have plenty of info when I talk to to my JD Dealer on Monday.
There's a company about 25 miles from me that sells hydraulic hoses and fitting, I'll see what they know.
Thanks to everyone, ---Thom
PS: If anything new come to anyone I'll be checking the site all weekend.
Willl
Elite Member
Little dark, but do you have the handle/lever removed.
Just curious, I don't see it.
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
Disconnect hoses, soak up the oil from the ports, use flash light and look down the port hole to try to see the spool.....moving the lever both ways, can you see if there is a narrow, about 3/8 - 1/2" diameter, (light blue on my pic) part on the spool?? The spool diameter should be about 3/4" diameter i assume.
This is what a 3way spool for a single action cyl would look like....It should have been drwa on the A port though....but it doesn matter ...check'em both A and B
Last edited:
I found the Q&A on justanswer.com. Does this tell us anything? ---Thom
QUESTION:
Have a John Deere 2355 with 4000 hrs. The hydraulics got slow, replaced the relief in the pump, it had a bad seat, set pressure to 2300psi checking it at the rear remote. Now it works good until it warms up then the front loader chatters and is slow the rear lift does the same thing. Sounds like cavitation but the oil is not foamy. Here's a kicker. While lifting the loader and it is slow and chattering (most of the time) if I move the rear remote lever (with nothing hooked to the remote) the loader immediatly starts working correctly.
ANSWER:
Your John Deere uses a closed center hydraulic system. That means that when no hydraulic functions are used, the control valves in the system block of the pressure port coming from the pump. The pump will sense this and 'goes in neutral' The symptoms you are describing make me think that the control valve that feeds oil to the back remotes is bypassing internally. when you stroke one of the levers the oil gets directed to the remote, but since nothing is hooked up the oil cant go anywhere. this will make your loader work proper. I would remove the valve and have it looked at at a John Deere dealer. They have the knowledge to fix it right.
QUESTION:
Have a John Deere 2355 with 4000 hrs. The hydraulics got slow, replaced the relief in the pump, it had a bad seat, set pressure to 2300psi checking it at the rear remote. Now it works good until it warms up then the front loader chatters and is slow the rear lift does the same thing. Sounds like cavitation but the oil is not foamy. Here's a kicker. While lifting the loader and it is slow and chattering (most of the time) if I move the rear remote lever (with nothing hooked to the remote) the loader immediatly starts working correctly.
ANSWER:
Your John Deere uses a closed center hydraulic system. That means that when no hydraulic functions are used, the control valves in the system block of the pressure port coming from the pump. The pump will sense this and 'goes in neutral' The symptoms you are describing make me think that the control valve that feeds oil to the back remotes is bypassing internally. when you stroke one of the levers the oil gets directed to the remote, but since nothing is hooked up the oil cant go anywhere. this will make your loader work proper. I would remove the valve and have it looked at at a John Deere dealer. They have the knowledge to fix it right.
AKKAMAAN
Veteran Member
Not really if you describe symptoms right....I works one way, 2000psi, and not the other....
If the below was the issue it shouldnt work any direction huh?!!!
and the old valve was opeen center right!!!?
I think you should take a break, and let some one else take a look at it....some times that helps......;-)
I am out!!
soulasphil
Platinum Member
I don't know your type of JD or the way your rear SCV is plumbed, so it's difficult to have an opinion. I use a splitter on a JD 3520 using the factory mounted third SCV and rear QCs (the idea is not mine, it came that way with the new tractor). There is no detente so that I must use a bungee or small chain to keep the valve open (not the best of designs). When the lever is pushed forward, the output is the bottom QC, when it is drawn back, the output is the top one. In both cases, all other hydraulic appliances (such as the FEL) are dead. My first idea for your problem if your system is somewhat like mine was swap the two hoses or change the lever position. But from what i've read since, it seems more tricky than that. Hope you can make that valve work properly. I think I would try operating the cylinder from the tractor without the splitter valve to make sure.
