Massey Ferguson 35

[Creekside Quarters]

Anyone have any experience/knowledge about these tractors? How much they may be worth? It is a gas engine model in decent shape with good tires and average hours. Has been barn kept.

Thanks alot for any info.

 

[Soundguy]

priced a lil higher than an 8n.. you see 35's in good shap going for as high as 3500 around here.. say 1500-3500 as a range depending on condition.. etc. If it was a 135.. it'd fetch a bit more

soundguy

 

[flusher]

Anyone have any experience/knowledge about these tractors? How much they may be worth? It is a gas engine model in decent shape with good tires and average hours. Has been barn kept.

Thanks alot for any info.

I paid $3600 in Jul06 for my 1964 MF-135 diesel. It runs OK (needs a water leak fixed now), but was pretty dirty and the front grill was beat up.





The MF 35 is an earlier model, gas. So if it's in really, really good condition, maybe $2500-3000.

 

[Creekside Quarters]

Thanks alot for advice. We were looking for a smaller/mid size tractor for our raking and tedding work instead of putting so many hours on our main tractor. It appeared to me that this tractor might be a little heavier than a 8n and might have little more hp. Am i correct in thinking that? Not sure if it is a TO-35 or standard 35 yet, haven't had a chance to get the serial number off of it. Would that make a difference in the price? What would be the easiest way to tell the difference between two? Any real problems with that model that I should be concerned with? Thanks alot.

 

[flusher]

Thanks alot for advice. We were looking for a smaller/mid size tractor for our raking and tedding work instead of putting so many hours on our main tractor. It appeared to me that this tractor might be a little heavier than a 8n and might have little more hp. Am i correct in thinking that? Not sure if it is a TO-35 or standard 35 yet, haven't had a chance to get the serial number off of it. Would that make a difference in the price? What would be the easiest way to tell the difference between two? Any real problems with that model that I should be concerned with? Thanks alot.

According to TractorData.com, that MF35 can weigh anywhere between 3000 and 6000 lb.

TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 35 tractor informationhttp://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1846565

My MF135 weighs about 3100 lb without loaded rear tires and about 3600 lb with fluid in the rears.

You can check the serial numbers on the TractorData link above.

The TO-35 was manufactured between 1954 and 1961. The MF35 ran from 1960-64. So the price on the MF35 might be a little higher.

 

[Soundguy]

the mf35 will be more desireable than the to-35

soundguy

 

[Creekside Quarters]

Thanks for information, going to look at it on Saturday, let you know what happens. Maybe get some pictures too.

 

[Soundguy]

we love pics!

soundguy

 

[Creekside Quarters]

According to TractorData.com, that MF35 can weigh anywhere between 3000 and 6000 lb.

TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 35 tractor informationhttp://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1846565

My MF135 weighs about 3100 lb without loaded rear tires and about 3600 lb with fluid in the rears.

You can check the serial numbers on the TractorData link above.

The TO-35 was manufactured between 1954 and 1961. The MF35 ran from 1960-64. So the price on the MF35 might be a little higher.

Flusher, I noticed on your profile that you have a MF 124 baler, I have a MF 12 baler. Have you ever had any problems with mistying on one side? Also, what do you do annually for maintenance on it? Just starting out haying on our farm and looking for some helpful advice. Thanks.

 

[flusher]

Flusher, I noticed on your profile that you have a MF 124 baler, I have a MF 12 baler. Have you ever had any problems with mistying on one side? Also, what do you do annually for maintenance on it? Just starting out haying on our farm and looking for some helpful advice. Thanks.

I just planted my first hay crop last Oct (Kanota oat hay, dry land farmed) so I don't have much hands-on experience with that 124 baler yet.

I did check it out last April and the knotters did OK. However, the slip clutch facings are pretty worn so I have to get those refurbished or replaced.

We harvest here in early May. So between now and then I'll go through the complete checkout and alignment procedure on the pickup, packer, plunger and knotter mechanisms. The drive chains need to be cleaned, lubed and re-tensioned for sure.

The guy I bought it from recommended spraying the knotters with WD-40 every few weeks to keep the rust down (I keep the baler in a shed).

The knotters on your MF12 baler are quite a bit different from the ones on my 124 shown here.





I don't have a photo of the MF12 knotters, but, IIRC, they look more complicated than the 124 knotters you see here.

Do a TBN search on "baler" and you'll get a lot of good advice on baler maintenance.

 

[Creekside Quarters]

Yea, the #12 baler looks alot more complicated than yours. Seems that you have plenty of room to work on knotters and see if there is a problem without disassembling alot. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Soundguy]

I did check it out last April and the knotters did OK. However, the slip clutch facings are pretty worn so I have to get those refurbished or replaced.

I've seen some guys use masenite cut out on a jigsaw or bandsaw to make clutch plates before.. not sure if it would work in your application or not.

soundguy

 

[flusher]

I've seen some guys use masenite cut out on a jigsaw or bandsaw to make clutch plates before.. not sure if it would work in your application or not.

soundguy

SG: thanks for that info. It's really timely since today I disassembled the slip clutch on the MF124 baler.

The pto shaft plugs into the sprag clutch inside the hub of the slip clutch.





There's supposed to be two friction discs (#6 and #8) sandwiched between the drive/driven plates. Those discs have been worn down to nothing.









With nothing left between the plates, I could do short bales (24" long or so) OK. But when I tried to do a full length bale (~45" long), there was so much resistance in the baling chamber that the slip clutch started slipping.

I think I have a vendor for new friction discs. Hope to hear from him tomorrow. If not, I'll try the MF dealer in Chico. Don't like to do this because prices are high.

I may be using your suggestion if nothing else pans out.

 

[Soundguy]

seen it and it worked.. plus it's cheap though no doubt a less durable fix than oem parts.

soundguy

 

[Specop_007]

Funny, thats exactly what I have. a 35 Delux gasser. I love it. Am very, very happy. I dont know what else to tell you really. The one thing I dont care for is no power steering. Outside of that, well, it starts, it runs, I like it.

 

[Soundguy]

deluxe... nice..

soundguy

 

[JoeinTX]

Good little rig.

If as decribed....no serious leaks/issues, airable tires, starts/runs fine, and no weird noises out of the clutch/tranny while operating? I'm all over $3500 or so. If less, get it.

The obvious value of a gas 35 is simpler maintenance/monkey-wrenching for the average schmoe. Diesel versions can be better on fuel costs but a pain for non-mechanic types.

I love the older Ford/MF tractors for miserly fuel consumption but understand the added value of later improved models in terms of hydro and tranny and so on.