DIY - 3rd function joy stick - kind of

[Couple of Achers]

After pricing a 3rd function joystick feature for my Kubota L4740, and after actually seeing it installed on one, I did not care for either the installation or the price. So I took a different path. This is not anything new here. I'm sure many of you have done a similar thing. I just thought you might be interested is seeing a picture of mine. Cause I know we all like pictures! It is much cleaner than the real thing. It maybe won't be quite as handy. But the price was right. I had most of the hoses and connectors form other projects. I just had to come up with the mounting bracket and a buy a couple quick disconnects. They are the top two connector in the picture that are mounted vertical instead of horizontal. (It was just easier that way) I plan to use this for a hyd. chute deflector on my front snowblower and I am adding a grapple to my rock bucket. Of course I still have the plumbing to run down the loader arms for the grapple, but one step at a time.

 

[kennyd]

That looks fine, JD even offers a "kit" to do the very same thing. Nothing wrong with using the rear remotes since you already have them!

 

[srs]

I just had to come up with the mounting bracket and a buy a couple quick disconnects. Of course I still have the plumbing to run down the loader arms for the grapple, but one step at a time.

Couple of Achers, Good job! I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. Where did you get the mounting bracket shown in the first pic? Can you please take a side photo of the mounting bracket? And finally, do you plan on running a solid or rubber line to the front of the tractor? I thank you in advance.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Couple of Achers, Good job! I have a couple of questions for you if you don't mind. Where did you get the mounting bracket shown in the first pic? Can you please take a side photo of the mounting bracket? And finally, do you plan on running a solid or rubber line to the front of the tractor? I thank you in advance.

I made the bracket out of some 3/16x2 flat stock. I first made a cardboard template until I got it just the way I wanted it. I had to cut some half moon shaped pieces out of the sides of the bracket to fit around the existing couplers. The two 5/16" bolts holes that hold the bracket on were already in the existing bracket, so I drilled corresponding holes in the new bracket. I used 3/8" rubber hoses. The whole size of 11/16" allows for the threads to go through the bracket. You can tighten the the joint as tight as you can and it still let's the hose turn, so it works as a pivot joint.
I cannot get any side pictures because the loader mounting bracket is in the way. I went out and took a couple of pictures of the back side of the bracket looking through the cab window. I think you can get a pretty good look at it. The sketch (no comments please) is what the bracket looks like. I think the key to it was making it out of cardboard first. Then start cutting the metal. Hope that helps.

 

[srs]

Sir, thank you for the quick reply. Photos are perfect. Again great job! Will you run a solid or rubber line to the front?

 

[Couple of Achers]

Sir, thank you for the quick reply. Photos are perfect. Again great job! Will you run a solid or rubber line to the front?

You're welcome. I enjoy telling others about this. My wife is tired of hearing about it! I plan on running 3/8 rubber hose to the front of the loader arms. Probably won't have that factory finish look to it, but I have never messed around with the steel lines. I will have to manufacture another type of terminating bracket for up front. At that point I will be switching to 1/4" pioneer couplers and then from that point run 1/4" hoses to the grapple. All this will have to wait a bit. My first goal is to finish putting a hyd. cyl. on my snow blower chute. As much as I hate to think about it, snow is just around the corner here.

 

[srs]

please keep everyone informed on your projects.

 

[gumshu]

Nice work! Clean machine.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Nice work! Clean machine.

Thanks. It should be clean. I just drove it off the lot today. Yes, I drove it home. I have the distinct advantage of being only 4 miles from the Kubota dealer. I guess that is an advatage. Depending on who you are talking to. Me or the wife.

 

[CowwFace]

Thanks. It should be clean. I just drove it off the lot today. Yes, I drove it home. I have the distinct advantage of being only 4 miles from the Kubota dealer. I guess that is an advatage. Depending on who you are talking to. Me or the wife.

Hey Couple of Achers,

Yeowzers that is one beatiful mochine! Did you have to add on the 3 rear remotes? My Kioti came with one set stock, and I can add a 2nd ... but off the lot with 3... that's like tractor ****!

We just had 41" of snow here in Colorado and I'm wishing for more already!

Phill

 

[Couple of Achers]

Hey Couple of Achers,

Yeowzers that is one beatiful mochine! Did you have to add on the 3 rear remotes? My Kioti came with one set stock, and I can add a 2nd ... but off the lot with 3... that's like tractor ****!

We just had 41" of snow here in Colorado and I'm wishing for more already!

Phill

It really doesn't "come" with any. You have to specify how many and what kind of rear remotes you want. Even tho I was able to drive it off the lot yesterday, I inked the deal a month ago. So they had plenty of time to add all the options. And option I got. It is tricked out pretty nice. There is so many levers, buttons and knobs inside the cab my nephew says it looks like the inside of the space shuttle. This isn't my first tractor, but it very well could be my last. So I wanted to get it right. Why 3 sets of remotes? Because 4 sets is not available! But in reality, I knew I was going to be using one set for a make shift 3rd function. I also have a hyd. top link. So that only leaves one set available to use for attachments. I would like to get an hyd. offset rear blade someday, so that will pretty much uses up all 3 sets.
Thanks for the kind words.

 

[Couple of Achers]

please keep everyone informed on your projects.

Time for an update. I was able to fish the two additional hoses through the existing hose protector sock and weaved them up between the existing metal pipes. I made a bracket to terminate the couplers on the front of the loader. It is mounted using existing cover bolts. I used both 3/8" and 1/4" hoses, I was able to keep the hose tight to the loader arm using the existing brackets. The 3/8" hoses fit under the first bracket but the 1/4" hoses would not fit under the other bracket. But I made a simple clamp to hold those in place. During the test fitting I made sure I ran the loader all the way up and back down. Stopping at different heights to see if the additional hoses were binding on the existing piping or pulling taught some where. All's well.

Next up. Get the hoses on my grapple.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Here's a pic of where the additional hoses connect to the additional quick connects.

 

[srs]

Jerry, thanks for the photos and update. Very nice job, professional looking! Is there any particular reason in the 3rd photo [right loader arm] you are using couplings instead of running hoses from the cab area directly to the front crossover pipe? Other then perhaps you ran out of hose????

 

[Couple of Achers]

Jerry, thanks for the photos and update. Very nice job, professional looking! Is there any particular reason in the 3rd photo [right loader arm] you are using couplings instead of running hoses from the cab area directly to the front crossover pipe? Other then perhaps you ran out of hose????

Thanks. As far as the two different size hoses go. I wanted to switch over from 3/8 hose to 1/4" couplers anyway. I could have done it at the cross over pipe if I wanted to order hoses from a mail order place or have them custom made at a shop. But to get the exact length and have them made up just to find out that they are too long or worse, to short, is a little troubling for me. It is easier for me to buy the stuff locally and if it is the wrong length, just take it back and get the next size up or down. Everything I used on this project, I either made or was off the shelf at a farm supply store. This project, like most of mine, is design as you build. I have the idea in my head, then I start building it and adapt to what makes sense along the way. One advantage to using the 1/4" hoses at the end is that they are easier to bent/form into the tighter curves. So, I didn't necessarily run out of hose. It was the longest 3/8" hose I could buy off the shelf. I don't know. It maybe doesn't make sense to everyone, but I guess it does to me. Things seem to work when I get done with a project and I guess that's what counts in the end. Thanks again.

 

[JoeL4330]

Couple of Achers wrote: "Why 3 sets of remotes? Because 4 sets is not available!"

I have six (6) on my Kubota L4330 ...just about enough when I have the rear blade on (angle, tilt, offset, and gauge wheel) along with top and tilt.

The pic is somewhat outdated because I moved the three on the left to below the crossbar, same as the three on the right ...and, changed the couplings to double-acting (push in, pull out ...no messing with the collars, which was very difficult because of the tight space behind.)

 

[Couple of Achers]

Couple of Achers wrote: "Why 3 sets of remotes? Because 4 sets is not available!"

I have six (6) on my Kubota L4330 ...just about enough when I have the rear blade on (angle, tilt, offset, and gauge wheel along with top and tilt.

The pic is somewhat outdated because I moved the three on the left to below the crossbar, same as the three on the right ...and, changed the couplings to double-acting (push in, pull out ...no messing with the collars, which was very difficult because of the tight space behind.)

SWEET.

What kind of blade do you have on your L4330? I am in the market for a hyd. offset blade but the only one I can seem to find is a great big 8' blade made for cat1/cat2 three point hitch. I've tested one out but since it is made for a taller tractor, with my 3pt. all the way up it was only 6-8 inches of the ground. I could raise it further with the hyd. top link, but it didn't work well when it was off set. I can find manual offsets ones that will work but I would like find a 7' hyd. offset for a cat 1 hitch. Not one for a cat 1 or cat 2 hitch.

 

[mcd176]

Couple of Achers,

Very nice job! and a very nice machine. One question: What is the Hydraulic connection for on the bottom right with the blue cap on it?

-Mike

 

[Couple of Achers]

Couple of Achers,

Very nice job! and a very nice machine. One question: What is the Hydraulic connection for on the bottom right with the blue cap on it?

-Mike

Good catch! I asked the dealer the same question. I ordered the L2195 front mount snowblower with the tractor. It has a hyd. motor to turn the chute. The way the dealer explained it to me was this. On the larger L series tractors, such as the L4740, you only need a fraction of the hyd. fluid/pressure to turn the chute. So on the hyd. motor there is a supply hose, a return hose, and a "bypass" line. I don't think he used the word bypass, but that is how I have it pictured in my mind. Maybe someone from the Hydraulic Section can weigh in here. In other words, only some of the fluid is actually used to turn the chute, the rest of it bypasses the motor and returns directly to the sump on the tractor. The additional coupler you mention is where the 3rd hose from the blower hyd motor attaches to return the fluid.

 

[mcd176]

Uh huh! Now that makes sense, Does the snowblower run off of a mid PTO or is it all hydraulic?

-Mike