CK25 Loader control and "new" cenimatic kit

[1wheeler1]

My 230hr CK25 loader control joystick had gotten so loose and floppy that it was barely usable. When I took it apart to take a look there are three nylon balls on posts that the joystick pivots on and these balls were worn out. I use the float function a lot and the fixed post/ball was really worn out causing the joystick to pop off of this pivot point. Researching on TBN it looked as thought the parts to fix it were going to be quite expensive. When I went to order the kit from my dealer I was quite happy to find out they have a new updated kit thats about $30. The new kit includes new posts/ball that look to be machined out of stainless steel and includes the new pivot part that goes between the joystick arm and pivot balls. This kit looks to be a tremendous improvement over the old design that used the nylon/plastic balls. I highly recommend the upgrade to others who's loader joystick is getting loose/floppy or uses the float function a lot. I know some people have recommended against using the float function due wearing out the joystick but I think this upgrade will correct that issue. Just wanted to let everybody know for about $30 and a couple of hours you can fix the problem and have a new improved design.

Thanks,

1wheeler1

 

[TBDonnelly]

Thanks for posting. That's good to know!

Don

 

[Dmace]

Good to know, mine's getting a little loose this year after 360 hours of frequent use. I'll check with my dealer about the updated kit, any chance you have a part number?

 

[1wheeler1]

Part Number is Daedong 26001-0090 Cinematic Kit. Since I didn't have a manual installing it the first time was a learning experience. Here's the overview of how I would do it again with what I know now.

1. Removed the seat for easy access
2. Removed the two bolts that attach the joystick assembly to the body.
3. Once the joystick it detached from the body the rubber boot can be removed.
4. Remove the joystick lever and boot.
5. Remove the allen bolt under the assembly that holds the fixed pivot point.
6. Loosen the lock nuts on the cables attached to the assembly.
7. Screw the cable adjustment threads on the cables into the assembly until the fixed joystick pivot part that attaches to the joystick assembly with the allen bolt is raised enough for the fixed post to be removed from the main assembly and removed from joystick pivot altogether.
8. Remove the pivot part from the other two pivot balls attached to the cables.
9. Pull the cables down through the entire assembly and remove the old ball/posts.
10. Install the new ball/posts on the cables and reinsert back through the whole assembly.
11. Then pretty much reassemble in the reverse order.

To clarify the "pivot part" above is the part between the joystick handle and the new balls/posts. This kit includes this pivot part along with the new steel ball/post parts.

PS - I marked my cables as "inner" and "outer" before removing from the assembly because
thet could be easily swapped during reassembly.

Good Luck,

1wheeler1

 

[ERE]

This is really timely info. Mine is getting loose also.

Rick Wallace, is this something that can be mail ordered? I don't have a dealer within 150 miles.

 

[PAB_OH]

I just replaced the pivot balls on my 400 HR CK30. Unfortunately it was not as easy as described above. The shaft that the nylon balls are attached to necks down pretty thin and one was actually bent. I had to drop the entire assembly through the bottom of the tractor and use a cut off wheel to remove the tops off the shafts. They would not pull down through the plastic housing as described above. Otherwise it would have been much simpler.

In the end, it wasn't too bad of a fix. The joystick is much more ridgid now. I do worry about the part that is the interface between the shafts and the handle itself because it's aluminum. The new steel topped shafts will wear that aluminum and it will become loose again.

 

[DrewL]

Here is my upgrade

 

[PaPaGus]

DrewL, is the picture of your upgrade and the part and part number that 1wheeler1 posted the same item? I find myself not using the float function as much as I would like so as to make it last and would love to upgrade.. Thank You.

 

[DrewL]

I installed the grease fittings. Afterall, it is metal on metal.

 

[rmahlert]

This is really timely info. Mine is getting loose also.

Rick Wallace, is this something that can be mail ordered? I don't have a dealer within 150 miles.

That's who I ordered mine from the last month.. as always great service and price from Wallace. But.. I did deal with the 'boss'.. Amy.

 

[PaPaGus]

Thanks for the reply guys...I will get in contact with Rick. DrewL that is a clever idea on the grease fittings. I had to laugh at the picture sitting there it reminds me of one of the Autobot toys my grandson has.
Again Thanks

 

[DrewL]

I liked the idea also. Thanks.

 

[dfkrug]

Here is my upgrade

And that's only $30?!

When you took apart your OEM linkage, could you tell if it was lack of
lube or dirt invasion or ? that caused the failure? I am wondering what can
be done to extend the life of the FEL control.

Anyway, thx for posting, DREW, and WHEELER.

 

[DrewL]

It was because the teflon "balls" had scored and wore out so they would pop out of their sockets easeir and easier as time went on. As you can see in my picture the replacement is metal on metal hence me adding grease fittings

 

[ma9golj]

Hi
My FEL joy stick has failed like you have indicated
I have mailed my local supplyer and they don't seem to know about the Kit
Part Number is Daedong 26001-0090 Cinematic Kit
I'm interested to see if I can get the repair kit mailed to Australia.
Can you post Rick Wallace's details so I can Mail him?
Regards
From Australia
Joe

 

[Car Nut]

Anybody know if a kit is available for my CK20 or if it's the same part? It's doing the "flops to the right" thing too. Mine was my fault. Dismounted from the right side & caught my shirt on the joystick. Pulled that sucker right off the ball. Got it wired back in place for now.

 

[ma9golj]

Hi
My tractor is the 50Hp and the kit fits fine.
It was all done in under 1/2 hour.
I greased the Detent balls with some Molly grease (it did make it smoother and lighter to release from Float),and the SS balls on the kit also.
May do the grease nipple trick a bit later
Joe

 

[MichiganIron]

Yes, the cinematic kit is also available for the CK20S.

 

[PaPaGus]

Installed the new upgrade kit for the KL 130 loader control. The job isn't bad, but be kind to yourself and take the seat and panel next to joy stick off, as it will make life so much easier. This way I could slide the block out to take apart and not fight the shift boot. I included a couple pictures, these parts have over 160 hours on them and look to be in good shape, just a few digs in the plastic. When ever I used float position, the thought of wearing the control played on my mind...not anymore. Even if the part wears out the fix isn't that bad.
I wish there was an easy way to soften, whatever mechanism that is used to hold control in float position. Still, happy with what I have and the job isn't difficult or expensive if you take your time. If I have to take apart again, I am going to drill a small hole over each Slide & ball and grease with a chain saw sprocket grease gun.

I had a guy come to the house to pick up something and he seen the tractor in the barn. He looked it over and come to find out he has a Kabota about the same size. He was surprised at the quality of the tractor and it was a good feeling to just shoot the breeze about what we do with them, instead of what we own.

 

[Tim M]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/149948-ck30-front-end-loader-joystick.html

Hey Gus,

I posted this in the above thread and I would say the fix was pretty easy.

"I tried greasing the detent mechanism but my float was still very hard to disengage. Next step I took the cable and detent mechanism off and pushed the spool out the detent side. I worked the edge that catches the detent balls (part 36 in the diagram) with a very fine file then polished it with some emory cloth. I took maybe a few thousands off and rounded it over a bit. Works perfect. Obviously you'll want to be very careful and not take too much off or you'll be using a bungee to hold the float."