I found my BX BH limit

[Tommy V]

I was trying to lift a 15 foot long electric pole and put in in a hole. I strapped the pole to the bucket with chains and a strap near the bottom of the pole. The plan was to pivot the pole from horizontal to vertical and put it in the hole. The result was the pole 2 feet off the ground horizontally and a blown bucket curl hose. I guess I will need to find a different way to get the pole in the hole. The popped hose was not to too difficult to remove and the cost is not too bad, about $35.

 

[rdsaustintx]

Not sure how you can blow a hose doing anything with the BH. I use the curl to fight huge limestone ledges here. It is **** on the tractor and I can spend an hour literally flopping my tractor against the ground without hydraulic failure.

To handle a pole that size you will need a HUGE TLB, along the lines of a Ford 555.

 

[JoelD]

I would think a 15 footer to be not too bad. 30-40 footer would be another story.

Blown hose, you must've had a sudden stop or the like.

Better a hose than cylinder packing or valve, a lot more work to fix (maybe not dollars though).

Good luck with pole installation.

Joel

 

[radioman]

Thats odd. The relief should've kicked in before blowing the hose unless the hose had a problem with it.

 

[JoelD]

Thats odd. The relief should've kicked in before blowing the hose unless the hose had a problem with it.

I could be wrong, but I think if you are say lowering something fast and and let the valve snap to shut, there is no place for the presure to go as I think the relief valve is on the presure side??

Joel

 

[LBrown59]

I would think a 15 footer to be not too bad. 30-40 footer would be another story.

Blown hose, you must've had a sudden stop or the like.

Better a hose than cylinder packing or valve, a lot more work to fix (maybe not dollars though).

Good luck with pole installation.

Joel

Probably a weak spot or other defect in the hose.

Thats odd. The relief should've kicked in before blowing the hose unless the hose had a problem with it.

 

[J_J]

Of course that can happen for this reason. If you have enough weight on a mechanical device that is pushing on a ram, like in a hydraulic cylinder, the force can overcome the pressure of the system/hose and destroy something. That is similar to ramming your bucket into a load of dirt, and then wonder why the cylinder failed or the hose busted. Even the relief valve can not relieve the pressure fast enough. A hydraulic spike can be very high. You will either blow the circuit, or twist some metal. Rules are rules.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Of course...similar to ramming your bucket into a load of dirt...

I've done that over and over and over and over. Yesterday, I 'cut down' a 2" caliper maple by running into it with the FEL. Didn't come down, so I did it again. Still didn't, so I got more of a running start. STILL didn't come down so I hit it lower and curled while pushing forward in low range 4WD. Then it came out.

Such is the way of things with my tractor. I'd be a little bummed to have a hose blow just for using the BH. I guess I have close to 200 hours on the tractor with BH attached, so a hose could eventually go. And the 'bouncing' thing makes sense.

But how do you load the FEL with dirt but to drive it into the pile first? Faster the better!

Of course I'm kidding a little here, but not much. These things aren't exactly built to a 1.05 factor of safety like an airplane or something. If you compare the raw weight of weld beads on my tractor to the same on my truck, I'll bet there's 2x more on the tractor...

 

[J_J]

If the hole is big enough, you can put a 10 or 12 in board in the hole. Put one end of the pole at the hole, then hook the pole to your bucket, and lift. The end of the pole will hit the 12 in board, and as you lift, it should just slide in.

 

[J_J]

What color was the stain on the parachute, red or brown?

 

[dfkrug]

I could be wrong, but I think if you are say lowering something fast and and let the valve snap to shut, there is no place for the presure to go as I think the relief valve is on the presure side??

Except that many hoe attachments have relief valves in the work circuits,
often called shock-relief valves. Your Kioti TLB probably has them, Joel.
I suspect that many of the really small hoes, like the BT601, do not. Or
it was overwhelmed by the sudden force. On my Prairie Dog hoe, the
shock RVs are fixed at 2700psi, while the main hoe RV and tractor RV are
at 2500psi.

 

[bx24]

I have set this 30' pole several times (I use it temporarily in different spots) with the FEL. Once I have dug the hole with the BH, I drop the pole with with the butt end next to the fresh hole. From there, I just lift up the top end with the FEL and drive forwards. The teeth on the bucket keep it from sliding left or right and it drops right in the hole. I hold it there until I back fill some dirt by hand and then finish the job with the FEL.

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

 

[dfkrug]

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

That's a pretty tall pole there. I am no safety freak, but that seems like
a good opportunity to put your ROPS to use. So the pole does not flip over
the bkt and hit you.

 

[J_J]

I have set this 30' pole several times (I use it temporarily in different spots) with the FEL. Once I have dug the hole with the BH, I drop the pole with with the butt end next to the fresh hole. From there, I just lift up the top end with the FEL and drive forwards. The teeth on the bucket keep it from sliding left or right and it drops right in the hole. I hold it there until I back fill some dirt by hand and then finish the job with the FEL.

Using this technique, from start to finish I planted this class 5 pole (in the picture on the right side) in about 20 minutes by myself. Several months later, I did the same procedure in reverse and removed it in about the same amount of time. My FEL barely lifts this pole so I am guessing it comes in at around 550 lbs.

You don't have the same situation. You are only picking up one end, and the pole is sliding into the hole. His pole was chained to the bucket, and had full weight on it, and apparently it dropped or slipped for some reason, and overloaded the hyd circuit.

 

[bx24]

That's a pretty tall pole there. I am no safety freak, but that seems like
a good opportunity to put your ROPS to use. So the pole does not flip over
the bkt and hit you.

I did have the ROPS up, but as you can see from the drawing (third pic below .... it is hard to see), because:

A- having the butt of the pole in the hole
B- with the balance point in front of the tractor
C- The fact that the FEL was able to lift up the entire pole

The whole process went surprisingly well. Using the tooth bar with a chain, the ROPs and the other 3 factors, I think I was pretty safe. The FEL bucket eventually goes beyond the balance point as you push the pole vertical (this is where the ROPs is key), but by that point, the butt of the pole is wedged into the hole so it cannot come back out. The fact that the BH bucket is only 12" wide and keeps the pole from going left or right helps a bunch too. I have done plenty of things that in hind site that have pushed the safety limits of things, but I feel pretty good about this setup. Having worked around poles most of my adult life, the one thing that always surprises me is how much taller they look when they are vertical (see the light poles on the trailer)

You don't have the same situation. You are only picking up one end, and the pole is sliding into the hole. His pole was chained to the bucket, and had full weight on it, and apparently it dropped or slipped for some reason, and overloaded the hyd circuit.

Absolutely

There is no way I could have simply picked up the entire pole with the FEL and dropped it in

 

[workmytractor]

I had a hose bust on my FEL while lifting a trailer full of bricks. It busted in a spot that always had a sharp bend in the hose. I figure that created a weak spot and caused the failure. When I replaced the hose I reoriented the fitting to make more of a straight shot. Hopefully this was the cause and fix, but only time will tell.

 

[J_J]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

 

[workmytractor]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

That's good to know. I learn something new on here daily

 

[radioman]

A straight hose is not necessarily a good thing either. You need some kind of curl or bend to absorb the expansion. If a straight hose is mounted securely, it will eventually cause trouble. Sharp bends are not good either, and some hose has a better bend radius than others.

I learned something here. But gotta ask to be sure JJ- This is true with rubber hoses right ? If it metal, There no point in having curves , am I faulty in thinking this or what ?

 

[J_J]

I learned something here. But gotta ask to be sure JJ- This is true with rubber hoses right ? If it metal, There no point in having curves , am I faulty in thinking this or what ?

Here is some interesting reading. If I remember right, in aircraft hydraulic routing, you never run straight lines, because of expansion and contraction.
All hose should have room to flex, but not vibrate . You can get away with some straight lines by a short flexible ,plastic or rubber hose.

Hose routing guidelines
Always allow for expansion and contraction of the hose during operation by making the hose lengths slightly longer than the actual distance between the two connections. When pressurized, hose length can increase as much as 2% or decrease by as much as 4%.

If the replacement hose is too short, pressure may cause the hose to contract and be stretched, leading to reduced service life. But if a hose is too long, it can be damaged, pinched, or even severed if it gets in the way of moving machine members.

Also avoid positioning hose next to metal edges or too close to other hose. Continuous rubbing against equipment components, other hose, or objects in the operating envelope can wear away the hose cover, exposing the hose reinforcement. Once a hose's protective cover has worn away, the exposed reinforcement wires become susceptible to corrosion, wear, and, ultimately, premature failure.

Prevent abrasion by bundling together hose assemblies that flex in the same direction. Clamps, bent tube elbows, nylon ties, spring guards, and sleeves can be used to keep hose away from abrasion sources. Hose sleeves can be used to provide extra protection from abrasion. Major hose manufacturers also produce hoses with extra-tough, abrasion-resistant covers that last hundreds of times longer than standard rubber-covered hoses in hose-to-hose and hose-to-metal abrasion testing.

Use elbows and adapters to prevent inducing strain on hose assemblies and to provide neater installations that are more accessible for inspection and maintenance. Elbows and adapters also can prevent having to orient fittings in a specific position during installation.

If an angle fitting is required on both ends of a hose assembly, use it on one end only, then use a straight fitting and an angle adapter on the other. In general, it is better to use a straight adapter and bent tube fitting instead of an angled adapter and straight hose end. This promotes laminar flow, which reduces pressure drop.

And, finally, adapters should be permanently installed on tapered pipe thread ports as a way to upgrade connections to modern designs that are more reliable and leak-free.