New MF 135 owner

[Sam in TN]

Well I just got my new acquisition home. After a little online research it appears as if I am the proud owner of a 1973 industrial mf135. It has a 3 cylinder Perkins gas engine, and a 3 speed tranny with high/low. The tractor was originally yellow and has a hand and foot throttle. I know nothing about the recent history of this tractor, or even the last time it ran.

The tach does not work and shows 6000 hours. It does not appear to be burning any oil. There are no leaks anywhere which really surprised me, and all fluids are full and clean. The main problem is it sputters when i apply throttle and sometimes backfires when i take it back to idle. Also blows quite a bit of grayish white smoke while reving. If I pull the choke lever about half way out it runs allot better, almost normal. A full tune up is in order as well as draining replacing all fluids but I wanted to concentrate on this problem first.

I uploaded a video so you could hear what it was doing and maybe offer a starting point on troubleshooting this issue. Here is the link:YouTube - MF 135

 

[flusher]

Well I just got my new acquisition home. After a little online research it appears as if I am the proud owner of a 1973 industrial mf135. It has a 3 cylinder Perkins gas engine, and a 3 speed tranny with high/low. The tractor was originally yellow and has a hand and foot throttle. I know nothing about the recent history of this tractor, or even the last time it ran.

The tach does not work and shows 6000 hours. It does not appear to be burning any oil. There are no leaks anywhere which really surprised me, and all fluids are full and clean. The main problem is it sputters when i apply throttle and sometimes backfires when i take it back to idle. Also blows quite a bit of grayish white smoke while reving. If I pull the choke lever about half way out it runs allot better, almost normal. A full tune up is in order as well as draining replacing all fluids but I wanted to concentrate on this problem first.

I uploaded a video so you could hear what it was doing and maybe offer a starting point on troubleshooting this issue. Here is the link:YouTube - MF 135

Nice tractor. Nice paint job. My MF-135 diesel is a 1964 model.
Yeh, looks like you'll be rebuilding that carburetor. Have fun.

 

[whistlepig]

Nice tractor! Sounds like either a vacuum leak or carb problem. Perkins engines are very good motors. I bought a used 1964 MF 135 Perkins diesel with 1,300 hours in 1980 and worked it for 27 years. Ran like new when I sold it. I also had an Oliver OC-3 track loader with a Perkins gas motor for a few years. Perkins motors are ruff and tough. Spend a couple of dollars and rebuild the carb and do a tune up. You will love the 135. There is no other tractor like it.

 

[Sam in TN]

Thanks for the reasurance. I was hoping it would be something simple. Just didn't want to spend more money if it was a lost cause. So where do I find a rebuild kit and instructions to do it? I've done a few holley's and edelbrocks in my time but never a tractor. Can I download a manual for this or do I need to buy one off ebay?

Edited to ask if this carb rebuild kit will work. It's one of the cheapest I have found yet and I can pick it up localy. It says it is for 50, TO35, MF35, MH50, MF50, MF135, 150, 202, 204, 2135 so should work. What do you all think? http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay_10551_10001_33732_-1______14345%7C14397%7C14413%7C33732?listingPage=true&Special=false

Or this one from eBay, which is about the same price just have to wait on delivery.http://cgi.ebay.com/Carburetor-Repair-Kit-TO35-F40-MH50-MF50-MF135-MF150_W0QQitemZ290314311985QQihZ019QQcategoryZ71374QQssPageNameZWD4VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em124

 

[flusher]

Thanks for the reasurance. I was hoping it would be something simple. Just didn't want to spend more money if it was a lost cause. So where do I find a rebuild kit and instructions to do it? I've done a few holley's and edelbrocks in my time but never a tractor. Can I download a manual for this or do I need to buy one off ebay?

Check this website for 135 parts

Discount Tractor Parts and Manuals for Older and Antique Tractors

You can get manuals from several sources:

Massey Ferguson Farm Tractor Repair, Shop, Service and Maintenance Manuals

Tractor Manual Shop - Service, Repair & Owners Operators Manuals

You'll find I&T manuals from almost every vendor. These are OK, but IMHO it's better to get
genuine MF service and parts manuals. eBay is a good place to start.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Carb rebuild, and also, check the gas in the tank....Old gas'll make 'em run snotty too. Check air filter as well as hose from filter to carb. Seen 'em with mouse nest's, ect,....

Perkins engines are tougher'n a $2 steak! Get it running right and you'll love it!

As mentioned, get the MF/AGCO manuals. (Owners, Service, and parts) I&T manuals for the Masseys are lacking in information as well as I've found some inaccuracies. The parts manual is as handy as the other two. (Exploded views of sub assemblies)


I just caught up on a few other threads.....I see where you posted about a successful haul home! Glad that worked out.

You asked a question in THAT thread that I'll try to answer here....You inquired as to live power or not. The "econo" version available WITHOUT live power came ONLY with the Continental engine models earlier in the production. Those tractors came with a Continental Z134 and the live power versions came with Continental Z145's. Once Perkins gassers were used, the single stage clutch version was discontinued. So....You have EITHER a 2-stage clutch OR independent PTO. For the most part, ind. pto's came only with tractors equipped w/MultiPower.

 

[Texas Blues]

Nice tractor Sam! If you have rebuilt carbs on a car than that carb will be a breeze, there is not much to them. The kit is a minimal cost, mays well get the OEM Ferguson kit. If that current problem is all that is wrong with it, you have it made! Again, nice looking 135, maybe post some pictures from both sides? Thanks, TB

 

[Egon]

The main problem is it sputters when i apply throttle and sometimes backfires when i take it back to idle.

Check out the timing and ignition system.

 

[jamesgpeck]

Do the MF135 live power versions that came with Continental Z145's have an independent PTO option or was it only 2-stage clutch?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Do the MF135 live power versions that came with Continental Z145's have an independent PTO option or was it only 2-stage clutch?

Depends.....Most 3X2 speeds, and the 4X2 speeds have 2-stage clutch. SOME MultiPower have 2-stage, and many have independent. I've never seen a non- MultiPower 100 series w/independent pto, and my manuals don't list them as available in that configuration, but anything is possible I suppose.

 

[Sam in TN]

Just got a repair kit for the carb. Will drain the tank while I have the carb soaking. Do have a couple more questions though. I have also included pics of the areas in question.

Next to my hydraulic dipstick there is a mystery lever. Anyone know what it is and it looks like that area is supposed to be covered by a panel. Will it hurt anything by not having that covered up?

Went to check my timing and I found the pointer but can't seem to find any timing marks on the flywheel. Can someone give me an idea on what to look for?

Last question, my pto has ground and engine options. Engine setting works fine but ground setting does nothing, whether I am sitting still or moving. Is this serious? It appears to have a 2 stage clutch whith the second stage being very stiff. It take great force to push it down all the way to disengage the pto. Twice as much force as whats necesary to disengage the transmission.

Thanks for everyones help, it is greatly appreciated.

 

[flusher]

Just got a repair kit for the carb. Will drain the tank while I have the carb soaking. Do have a couple more questions though. I have also included pics of the areas in question.

Next to my hydraulic dipstick there is a mystery lever. Anyone know what it is and it looks like that area is supposed to be covered by a panel. Will it hurt anything by not having that covered up?

Went to check my timing and I found the pointer but can't seem to find any timing marks on the flywheel. Can someone give me an idea on what to look for?

Last question, my pto has ground and engine options. Engine works fine but ground does nothing, whether I am sitting still or moving. Is this serious? It appears to have a 2 stage clutch whith the second stage being very stiff. It take great force to push it down all the way to disengage the pto.

Thanks for everyones help, it is greatly appreciated.

That lever near the hyd dipstick is the draft response control lever. It is used together with the draft control lever above it to adjust the reaction speed of the draft system when using a ground engaging implement like a plow. Sometimes an implement will cause rapid changes in the draft load and the implement will bob up and down. The draft response control lever can be adjusted to minimize this motion. You're right--the panel that covers that lever is missing.

Sounds like the pto shift isn't working if you can't get the "ground pto" feature to work correctly. You may have to split the tractor to fix this problem along with the problem with the 2-stage clutch.

My 135 has a clutch problem--can't shift the pto into gear with the engine running. Have to stop the engine, shift the pto into gear and then restart to get the pto shaft to spin. I plan to split the tractor later this year and fix this problem.

 

[whistlepig]

Just got a repair kit for the carb. Will drain the tank while I have the carb soaking. Do have a couple more questions though. I have also included pics of the areas in question.

Next to my hydraulic dipstick there is a mystery lever. Anyone know what it is and it looks like that area is supposed to be covered by a panel. Will it hurt anything by not having that covered up?

Went to check my timing and I found the pointer but can't seem to find any timing marks on the flywheel. Can someone give me an idea on what to look for?

Last question, my pto has ground and engine options. Engine setting works fine but ground setting does nothing, whether I am sitting still or moving. Is this serious? It appears to have a 2 stage clutch whith the second stage being very stiff. It take great force to push it down all the way to disengage the pto. Twice as much force as whats necesary to disengage the transmission.

Thanks for everyones help, it is greatly appreciated.

The two stage clutch will feel stiff when hitting the second (pto disengage) stage. It should have a "feel" between the two stages of this clutch. About twice as much foot pressure sounds right. My 135 had the ground setting on it also and it worked. I tried the ground setting once just to see what it would do and never used it again in the 27 years I had the tractor. It made the tractor feel like it did not have a "live power" PTO. I'm not sure what this ground setting is for. I do know that for mowing you would never want to use it.

 

[Sam in TN]

The two stage clutch will feel stiff when hitting the second (pto disengage) stage. It should have a "feel" between the two stages of this clutch. About twice as much foot pressure sounds right. My 135 had the ground setting on it also and it worked. I tried the ground setting once just to see what it would do and never used it again in the 27 years I had the tractor. It made the tractor feel like it did not have a "live power" PTO. I'm not sure what this ground setting is for. I do know that for mowing you would never want to use it.

Thanks for explaining the hard clutch. As far as the pto, I was worried with the ground setting not working it was a sign that the engine setting would soon be failing.

Now if I can just figure out how to check the timing. Which is the number one cylinder? Closest to radiator, middle or closest to operator? I have hooked my light up to all 3 and can't see any flywheel marks when it flashes.

 

[flusher]

Thanks for explaining the hard clutch. As far as the pto, I was worried with the ground setting not working it was a sign that the engine setting would soon be failing.

Now if I can just figure out how to check the timing. Which is the number one cylinder? Closest to radiator, middle or closest to operator? I have hooked my light up to all 3 and can't see any flywheel marks when it flashes.

I've looked into my MF-135 service manual. I can't find any info on cylinder numbering. All I could find is the firing order, which is 1-2-3, and that the #1 valve is nearest the water pump end of the engine (the front end).

 

[Texas Blues]

Heres a picture of my perkins gasser with the head off. The pistons are numbered, 1 being the one in the front. Good luck! TB

 

[Sam in TN]

Just ran into another problem. Took my carb off to rebuild and after I tore it down I realized it didn't match my rebuild kit. Apparently my carb is a Zenith and my kit is for a Marvel-Schebler. Long story short someone painted my carb and I can't find any model number anywhere.

Want to make sure I get the right kit this time so if someone could tell me the model number Zenith used on the 135 Perkins 3 cylinder I would appreciate it.

 

[Texas Blues]

How did the carb look on the inside? See any clogged passages? Sorry, no help here on the correct carb , when I bought my 135 it had the wrong carb on it (mounting holes did not line up and the guy just had a pair of vise grips holding it tight on one side) it ran good like that but obviously the wrong one.

 

[normpete]

I have a MF that was originally painted yellow but now looks like a 135. It has a 3 cyl gas engine Perkins. It has a shuttle-shift, foot gas pedal also, a power steering cylinder on each side, high-low trans, no decal or badge when I got it and a front axle that is non-adjustable. What is it? Can anyone help me? Norm

 

[murphy1244]

Hey Norm, Are your headlight mounted in the front grill?