Securing Equipment on Trailer

[Dargo]

Here are the 3-4 inch straps, looks like they are all rated at 5K WWL

LiftAll Cargo Strap Ratchet Tie Down w/ Chain & Long Handle Ratchet - 3" - Mfg# 20489

.

If I were to use straps, which I wouldn't because of how fast they degrade from UV light and abrading from general use, those are exactly the ones I priced. Four of those with shipping would cost you around $450 and you'd have a 3-5 year life expectancy for them. If you haul quite frequently, these will need to be replaced at least annually according to the manufacturer and even sooner if you get an abrasion or cut on one. Realistically, for general use, if you take care of them the G70 chain will last you a lifetime and cost half as much and you don't have to worry about them getting cut.

The 2" straps are for lawn tractors or ATVs. Without a doubt going with straps will cost you twice as much and you definitely will be replacing them rather frequently if you want to maintain the WLL rating. Since I also haul some collector cars at times I did purchase some extremely heavy round slings (8400 WLL LiftAll Tuflex™ Roundsling - Yellow - 6ft. Long - Mfg# EN90X6') and D rings to attach the chain to the slings. It's still far, far less expensive to go with good G70 chain and binders and use the appropriate D rings and slings if you're concerned about marring your tractor; which I definitely would be. I wouldn't wrap a chain around the axle of my tractor, but I'd use one of these slings.

 

[wkpoor]

Well here is some pics of my setup that will be moving tomorrow as I preloaded today for the morn. Those straps are kept in the van when not in use so even though they are about 4yrs old they still look new. Getting wet is what grays them and I typically don't go anywhere to work the tractor if the weather is bad. These weren't that expensive but I do see how chains will last for years over the straps.

 

[JB4310]

I think I've got this down pretty good, Like I said I got lucky with the attachment points on the machine, those shackles (rated 5 ton) on the BH plate can stay there when back hoe is not on and with the G70 slip hooks it takes all of 1 second to connect there, the front hooks on the frame are also very fast and secure (I believe).

Threw the 2 inch straps on the box and the loader, I now see how light duty these 2" straps are, 3"-4" straps on all four corners would be the min I would consider now.

Another note, Ive seen some trailer ramps don't have the legs under them to allow you to load the trailer when not coupled to the truck, which is a convenient option.

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looks really good. The only suggestion I would make is on the rear counter weight. You may want to put the strap between some of those pipes as a safety factor and hook the straps on the trailer where the rear chains are. This would pull the counter weight down more and also prevent the tractor from moving much forward and backward if all else failed. Either way it looks good to me.

Chris

 

[wkpoor]

J4310, if you look closely at my pics you'll notice how to secure the excess strap neatly without having to wrap it around and around and tie off. Just fold down and thread under the buckle. This works good unless you have too much unused strap. What I see in your pics is just about right for the trick.

 

[wwalkersd]

Another note, Ive seen some trailer ramps don't have the legs under them to allow you to load the trailer when not coupled to the truck, which is a convenient option.

JB.

Those legs are NOT to allow you to load onto an uncoupled trailer! NEVER load onto an uncoupled trailer! The trailer alone is not sufficiently stable, even if you block the wheels.

The legs are to prevent lifting the rear end of the tow vehicle off the ground while loading a heavy vehicle on or off the trailer. I can't find a picture or video of such right now, but I know I've seen one.

 

[Skyco]

Says who? I do it all the time on my open and my enclosed trailers. I don't see the problem on flat ground with a chocked trailer....

 

[JB4310]

Looks really good. The only suggestion I would make is on the rear counter weight. You may want to put the strap between some of those pipes as a safety factor and hook the straps on the trailer where the rear chains are. This would pull the counter weight down more and also prevent the tractor from moving much forward and backward if all else failed. Either way it looks good to me.

Chris

Yeah I struggled more with that box than the rest of the tractor, those pipes are only PVC (should have used steel for multiple reasons) so I didn't think pulling against them would be kosher. The 2 front ones are 3 and 4 inches so for just stabilizing I probably would be OK to pull back on them a bit.

J4310, if you look closely at my pics you'll notice how to secure the excess strap neatly without having to wrap it around and around and tie off. Just fold down and thread under the buckle. This works good unless you have too much unused strap. What I see in your pics is just about right for the trick.

Yup I have 4+ ft of slack on those straps, plus I thought it was a good idea to tie the ratchets, that's probably not necessary though.

Those legs are NOT to allow you to load onto an uncoupled trailer! NEVER load onto an uncoupled trailer! The trailer alone is not sufficiently stable, even if you block the wheels.

The legs are to prevent lifting the rear end of the tow vehicle off the ground while loading a heavy vehicle on or off the trailer. I can't find a picture or video of such right now, but I know I've seen one.

This is in my yard on level ground, so no chance of the trailer going any where even without choked wheels.

If the concern is over the trailer frame or jack stand, I did not drive much past the tipping point since this load was just for pics sake, so there is only about 300-400 pounds on the tongue (me and another guy were able to lift the tongue with some strain) I was worried about to much on the jack.

As far as undo stress on the trailer, I figured since the stand is centered right behind the coupler it shouldn't put any unnatural stress on the frame, I hope not?


Thanks all, JB.

 

[shvl73]

Just an FYI, Lowes has 5/16" x 20' grade 70 chains for $36, made in USA. I returned my $30 Harbor Freight Chinese chains today and bought the new ones.

 

[WantedWolf]

And for the canadians...
Princess auto has 5/16" x 20ft gr70 transport chain w/hooks
for 34.99 Made in canada by Turner and Seymore of Canada

So we can all play

 

[firemanpat2910]

wow I would never load a trailer that wasnt hooked to my heavy diesel truck with my fat dog helping to hold it down. Different strokes for different folks. That would scare me to death, but I have seen first hand a tractor lift the back of an f150 2wd off the ground and the whole rig, truck, trailer, tractor, bushhog and operator take a wild ride down a slight inclene and fold the open drivers side door of the truck backwards ona pine tree. I will uncouple 1 of my trailers when it is loaded. it has 2 legs, with the drop down feet so you can level, and they are rated at 14000 lbs I think. same as the trailer is rated at, Dont quote me on thatone they might only be 4000 tounge weight rated. Oh and on the main subject Chain 4 corners

 

[JB4310]

wow I would never load a trailer that wasnt hooked to my heavy diesel truck with my fat dog helping to hold it down. Different strokes for different folks. That would scare me to death, but I have seen first hand a tractor lift the back of an f150 2wd off the ground and the whole rig, truck, trailer, tractor, bushhog and operator take a wild ride down a slight inclene and fold the open drivers side door of the truck backwards ona pine tree. I will uncouple 1 of my trailers when it is loaded. it has 2 legs, with the drop down feet so you can level, and they are rated at 14000 lbs I think. same as the trailer is rated at, Dont quote me on thatone they might only be 4000 tounge weight rated. Oh and on the main subject Chain 4 corners

Well if I'm doing something dangerous I need to know, so I appreciate the comments/warnings by you and wwalkersd.

After looking at the pics again I can see one potential problem, after the back wheels get to the top of the ramp and onto the trailer, but still well before the front jack comes back down. with that much weight on the ramp brace/leg, even though that brace is angled under the end of the trailer, if there was some forward motion with the trailer, those ramp legs could possibly cam out which would cause the ramp to hinge on the pipe that holds them and swing up with some destructive /dangerous force as the back of the trailer dropped. Chocking the wheel would help to prevent that, so I will choke wheels if there is a next time.

The trailer would only drop about 6-8 inches, which would still leave the deck at less of an angle than the ramps are typically. Once the weight shifted back down on to the front jack I don't see any danger unless the front jack collapsed, which would leave the deck at a fairly mild angle.
Anyone see any other potential hazards?

I can't think of a real world reason to load the trailer uncoupled to the truck, I only did this to practice my binding and to take some pictures of the results.

I guess those additional jacks I've seen on the back of some trailers would be more stable than just the ramps.

JB.

 

[Midsouth]

I think you have got it figured out. As far as chain versus straps when i was pulling for Anderson Trucking Service out of St. Cloud MN the rule was steel on steel unless it would damage the load. Then it was ok to use straps. So i'm a firm believer in using chains to tie down mine when i haul it.

 

[RagingBull]

Those ring will be good for what kind of lbs ?? i am loading heavy up to 22,000 lbs compactor and trackhoe