Grading 4100 plow blade quick tach/loader arms?

[acs55812]

I have a blade and need to make a bracket for it, given a choice would you think its better off on the loader arms or use the quick tach mounting and give up the blade height?

This might sound a bit crazy but I do have the 47" blower too, but since I got the blade figure I would like to use it to as least see if its something I like or sell it if I don't like it.

Switching from blower to blade wouldn't take much effort, putting the loader arms on would take a little more, but I am thinking if I make the right type of dolly/pallet specifically for this purpose on wheels (small wheels like 3" max) I could switch from blower to loader/arms pretty easy too (haven't tried this yet but I envision a rolling dolly/pallet that would fit each blower/loader on wheels stored in garage---unhook one roll it away, roll other one in place and hook it up)

 

[kennyd]

I had a blade on my FEL that I made, I was VERY disappointed with that way it worked on my 4110 (same as your 4100). The blade is to far out in front, and you loose steering control very easily. They seem to work well on larger tractors...

Search the site, there are LOTS of posts about them:

FEL plow
FEL snowplow
FEL blade.

I now have a frame mounted plow and the difference is night/day. Since you have the blower and the QH already, I would highly recommend adapting it to your QH. Gunmaker did this with a Meyers plow and it turned out great.

 

[acs55812]

In reviewing more since I posted this, I am leaning towards the QH setup, if I need the snow moved further (as in lots of snow) I can replace the blade with the blower easily.

I seem to have a hard time with the blower on a gravel drive of holding high enough to not make a rock pitcher out of it----it has no skid plates right now, I will be making some out of white oak tomorrow morning and I have hopes that will help make the blower more satisfactory----the part I am not happy with is the "clean up" part of the blower in that without skid plates I seem to leave piles of different depths around in different places, I want the consistent scraping action a blade offers.

Hopefully that makes sense and maybe the skid plates will help quite a bit.

 

[keeney]

On my 4100 with the factory front blade, the key to maintaining steering control while plowing snow is to lower the blade then put it into "float" by pushing the control all the way forward. That leaves enough weight on the front axle to keep steering control.

 

[kennyd]

On my 4100 with the factory front blade, the key to maintaining steering control while plowing snow is to lower the blade then put it into "float" by pushing the control all the way forward. That leaves enough weight on the front axle to keep steering control.

Very true for frame mounted plows, but that does not work for the FEL mounted plows-especially on our smaller tractors.

 

[Nuru]

I tried a boom mounted blade on my former 4310, but did not like it for the reasons you stated earlier. i got a frame mounted blade on the 3520 and it is so good and easy to use. I had the same on my former 4100 too. Just drop it and go!

 

[srs]

Very true for frame mounted plows, but that does not work for the FEL mounted plows-especially on our smaller tractors.

I'm wondering too if my 84" FEL mounted plow might give me a problem as you had in the past. I couldn't turn the deal down though as I bought a brand new quick attach plow (skid steer style) with 2 cylinders for $1200.00 cash. Hopefully my cabbed Kubota B3030 will be able to handle it. If not I guess I could always trim the width down or easily sell it for what I paid for it. I did have to put $200.00 out for lines to reach the rear remotes. Waiting for the white stuff now.

 

[mapmaker]

I have a 4115 and a 47 snow blower and I added a plow this year. I found an old 6' plow at a local JD dealer. I then built a QH adapter so I can switch between the plow and the blower. My only issue was that I do not have the power angle cylinder and JD wants $280 for it. (I only paid $75 for the plow) To solve the angle problem I cut two hole in the bottom of the QH with a 3/4" hole saw and welded collar around each hole to reinforce them. Now I just pull the pin and swing the plow to the side I want. I plowed 10" yesterday and we are supposed to get another 10 - 14 today. Works great for me.

 

[roccon31]

thanks to kennyd, here is my setup, works fantastic. the loader arms keep alot of weight on the front end, and combined with the steering brakes, i have no problems at all pushing a blade full and even turning with a full blade. the key is allowing the blade to float on the loader. plow blade is a full 6.5 ft, from a ford ranger.

 

[kennyd]

thanks to kennyd, here is my setup, works fantastic. the loader arms keep alot of weight on the front end, and combined with the steering brakes, i have no problems at all pushing a blade full and even turning with a full blade. the key is allowing the blade to float on the loader. plow blade is a full 6.5 ft, from a ford ranger.

Nice job! I hope it works good for you. Maybe my mistake was not using a chain, If I still had it I would try it.

One sugestion though: Find a way to limit the upward travel so the blade can't go 90* while your pushing up banks. The would scare the s**t out of you!

Lets get those hydraulic lines hooked up

 

[roccon31]

thanks kenny, those pics are over a year old, i have since hooked everything up using a prince manual diverter valve for the FEL lever to angle the plow. i dont have a problem with the plow lifting much, as i lift the loader arms to stack the snow into piles. one time, however, i was not paying attention and it came up on me. my thought was to put a pipe around the chain, limiting the travel of it.

since i use the tractor for my business, i got some contracts for snow removal using the tractor as a cleanup machine since it is so agile and fast, and can stack snow 6 ft high where pickup trucks can not. works great on small parking lots to get the snow stacked up over curbs to keep drainage systems open and flowing during snow melt with no damage to the curbs and landscapes.

 

[kennyd]

thanks kenny, those pics are over a year old, i have since hooked everything up using a prince manual diverter valve for the FEL lever to angle the plow. i dont have a problem with the plow lifting much, as i lift the loader arms to stack the snow into piles. one time, however, i was not paying attention and it came up on me. my thought was to put a pipe around the chain, limiting the travel of it.

since i use the tractor for my business, i got some contracts for snow removal using the tractor as a cleanup machine since it is so agile and fast, and can stack snow 6 ft high where pickup trucks can not. works great on small parking lots to get the snow stacked up over curbs to keep drainage systems open and flowing during snow melt with no damage to the curbs and landscapes.

Very good Rocco

 

[JasonL]

KennyD-
I do think the main problem you had with you FEL snowplow was its lack of the ability to float on the loader arms. If you remember several years ago I converted a plow over to go on my 4110. I allowed mine to float or or be rigid, and have had no problems with steering/traction. I will not disagree with your advice, however, that a QH setup might be better. I did post about my setup if anyone wants to look it up. Jason

 

[kennyd]

Hello Jason I do remember your plow and the fine job you did with it. Glad it's still working for you.