kevin37b
Veteran Member
How old are you ? Do you have a wife , kids ,grandkids ? Get a trackhoe in there and knock it over . Remember one OS moment is all it takes . You are too busy for this . Just saying .
I see how a Coos Bay might make it easier to control the release when you do the back cut, but I don't see how doing a back cut (Step 4) from outside the tree, towards the hinge eliminates barber chair.
Without a holding strap on the outside edge of the trunk, farthest from the hinge, it would seem the tree is in danger of barber chairing.
Go cut the darned thing off as low as possible using the traditional methods. Just be careful and don't bind the saw blade on the wedge cut.
It'll probably hang up when you down it.
I see what you mean if you're thinking that cutting the strap last in a typical plunge cut is what prevents the barber chair. But really, the trick is to eliminate the tendency to create a strong point shear load, which is what sets off the barber chair. In the case of a bore/plunge cut, you do that by hollowing out the holding wood where the shear would start. In the case of the Coos Bay, you have removed the sides of the holding wood, which is probably 90% of the wood that would setup that shear action, and you have disconnected the wood fibers between top and bottom. The little bit left in the base of the "T" is inconsequential. There is no longer a continuous shear plane across the wood to let go.
If you visualize the holding wood left in the "T" and think about what happens when you finish up by nibbling away the base of the T with a back cut, you can picture what wood fiber is left to hold and potentially shear, and see that it's limited to only what's left in that thin base of the T. Even if that did shear, it's a limited area not connected to enough other wood fibers to split across the whole trunk.
What exactly is a barber chair . Is it a shear or a rotation ?
...The part that broke off showed no signs of disease and broke off early one morning no wind. I just felt lucky it did not fall while I was driving under it.![]()
Ok, I follow you. I think? I think what you are saying is that the tensile strength of the tee-part you leave is hopefully less than the sheer force required to barber chair? I don't get the : "Even if that did shear, it's a limited area not connected to enough other wood fibers to split across the whole trunk." ???
Wouldn't it be better to cut the tee of your coos bay with a plunge cut behind the hinge and cut back?
Though, I can see that even with a plunge cut, once you cut the strap, if the hinge is too thick, you could still barber chair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGub5Jy1320
Look at about 1:35. They're pulling the top of the tree with a cable or rope creating a sheer force. A heavy leaner would have the same forces. The holding wood (hinge) is stronger than the sheer strength of the tree. The resultant stump looks like a barber's chair.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGub5Jy1320
Look at about 1:35. They're pulling the top of the tree with a cable or rope creating a sheer force. A heavy leaner would have the same forces. The holding wood (hinge) is stronger than the sheer strength of the tree. The resultant stump looks like a barber's chair.
I guess I'm thinking that the shear/split could start anywhere behind the chainsaw when you're sawing a backcut towards the hinge, whether there's a tee or the full width of the trunk still holding. If the tee "holds" and the sideways sheer forces are there, I still don't see why wouldn't a barber chair split open up from edge to edge across the trunk?With the "T", you have removed all the wood on each side, from the back all the way to the desired hinge. So the hinge is established 90%. What's left that could shear/split is just that narrow middle section of holding wood, and the split would never go across the whole tree to blow up like a barber chair.
Look at the photo at where it stopped splitting. Just cut it down below where the split stopped and you have the entire strength of the tree rather than just half of it.Seems like the trees tendency to split (barber chair) is a function of how much side tension (lean or rope pull) there is versus the adhesion strength between vertical grains of the tree. Perhaps I wrong, but I don't see where how it's dependent on whether you cut it high or low, other than if you cut it low it would give the top of the tree more leverage to split the grain.
I guess I'm thinking that the shear/split could start anywhere behind the chainsaw when you're sawing a backcut towards the hinge, whether there's a tee or the full width of the trunk still holding. If the tee "holds" and the sideways sheer forces are there, I still don't see why wouldn't a barber chair split open up from edge to edge across the trunk?
The only "edge to edge" left is the thickness of the base of the "T". All other fibers that were under tension/compression have been severed. So at most, only the fibers within the base of the T can shear when you cut through the right plane. They are non contiguous with the rest of the tree, so the crack can't spread. You have sort of predefined the limits of the holding wood at that point.
YIKES! Can't run fast enough!!!A 2nd danger of a barber chair is shown in this video at ~2:45. If it doesn't decapitate you on the upswing, it may crush you on it's return trip
<shudder>
</shudder>
Respect the tree, it outweighs you, is faster than you, and has no conscience.
YIKES! Can't run fast enough!!!
The one at 1:00 pretty much disintegrates. But the one at 3:59 is the best.