Just stumbled onto this thread, and will admit I did not go back and read the 612 pages between the first and the last, but the whole subject surprised me. I do quite the opposite, in that I prep the genny for long-term storage after each use, not knowing whether my next need for it will be in 2 weeks or 2 years. Then it's stored, much like it would be on a shelf in the factory or big box store, I never do "maintenance runs" between usage.
Basic Honda-powered 8 kW gasoline job, here's my routine:
1. Always mix fuel stabilizer with all fuel going into the tank.
2. In as much as it's impossible to know when an outage will be ending, endeavor to leave the tank less than half full, so that fresh fuel can always be added at next use.
3. Always shut down at the end of an outage by closing fuel shutoff valve, and letting line run dry.
4. Always drain carb bowl of fuel at end of an outage, mine has a nice little bleeder screw for this purpose.
5. Always change oil after an outage, and before putting it back into storage. Doesn't matter if usage was only 4 hours, I want it stored with uncontaminated oil in the crank case, as it might be a year or three before next use.
6. Watch hour meter, and keep up with all other maintenance items (spark plug, air filter, etc.) at specified intervals.
Following this routine, it has never failed to perform when needed.
You've found a practice that works well, for your combination of machine/fuel source/environment.... worth sticking to.
Scattered through these pages are differing examples of successful practices. Pay attention to what works (over Time), then be disciplined about doing it..... and don't ignore factory recommendations..... any of these machines attended this way should run a very long time.
I started out with dry storage years ago, then found that the regional fuel here tended to leave white deposits over time, that would stick floats etc...... coincident with getting back into the motorcycle game (and storing the bike Wet), I decided to store my other small engines Wet, and haven't looked back.
One thing I won't do here is let fuel tanks sit long term below Full. Humid much of the year here, with massive temperature swings, so in-tank condensation is a big issue for this region.
Your Honda sounds to be running fine (they usually do), but esp. if it has a metal gas tank, you might want to take a peak at the top of the tank with a borescope.
When they launched it, Stabil supplied a lot of information about what 360 was designed to do above the fuel line (vapour deposition).... I don't see that now listed, so I don't know if the formulation has changed, or their Legal/Finance shut that 411 stream down, after too many people with already rusted fuel tanks filed claims.....
360 is what I use at the moment, in my metal tanked small engines.....
STA-BIL 360 Protection - Fuel Treatment for Engines | Gold Eagle Co
Thanks for stopping by Winter..... your process works well for you, and your diligence re. clean-oil is notable.
Rgds, D.