thepumpguysc
Elite Member
Dave good call on the refugee.. moved to SC when I was 18.. enjoyed some quality time on Parris Island.. ancient history.. 54 now..
Your last generator Maintenance Run
- Thread starter 3930dave
- Start date
- Views: 1069406
Many older industrial engines still have a lot of hours left in 'em.... nice choice for a small tractor.
I'm trying to not collect any more "projects" till I clean up some "backlog"
, but if I came across an olde Wisconsin that didn't look totally trashed, it would probably find shelter in my garage....Rgds, D.
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
nikdfish
Veteran Member
Thought I'd make a note here about this, Costco has a sale starting June 1 on the Champion 7KW dual fuel generator. It includes a propane regulator with hose & 25' 30A two breaker extension cord. Regular price is $799.99, sale is $549.99 - limit 10. Available in store & on-line while supplies last. We bought one of these a couple of years back (@ a similar sale) & it has worked well for us.
Nick
Nick
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
Thanks for the "heads-up" Nick.. AWHILE back when someone posted a link to the site that had the 10k duel fuel for around 5-600.00 + free shipping, I hemmed & hawed & lost out.. but at the time my 5250 was runnin things nicely when the power went out.. but I think the run time on the other w/ propane was something like 11-15 hrs on a 20lb bottle, bbq grill size?? HECK, I was only getting 8hrs MAX on a FULL tank of gasoline..
I'll have to check it out.. thanks again..
I'll have to check it out.. thanks again..
TractorGuy
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2013
- Messages
- 4,616
- Location
- N. FL
- Tractor
- John Deere 4310 CUT, Ford New Holland 575E Industrial Backhoe, John Deere F725 Front Mount Mower
My monthly test was today. I think I have my monthly generator test routine down pretty good now. I use the calendar in my cell phone to remind me to check it every second Sunday of the month
I open the doors, remove the radiator cap, and feed the tube for my antifreeze hydrometer into the radiator to check antifreeze content and level. Next I remove the dipstick to check the oil level which reads almost a quart high but I know I put in the prescribed amount when I did the oil change. After that I connect my load bank and reconnect the bonding strap for the ground. Then I start the engine, holding it in start position until it has oil pressure. Next I look at the meter that I installed for voltage and Hertz to make sure it's reading. After verifying that it starts and runs properly I open both doors and look for any leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Then I close it back up and let the unit warm up. After the gauge indicates the engine is at operating temperature I will apply a small load. I will increase load amounts in progression up to the maximum 52 amps, then back it down to 40 and let it run a couple of hours. Then I remove load in progression until it has none, allowing it to cool, and finally shutting it down. After the test I will open the doors and perform another visual inspection. I finish up by topping off the fuel, disconnecting bonding strap, and load bank. I do not connect the auxiliary fuel system on every test. I may include that every so often.
After getting my machine sorted out it has never failed any of the above tests. Therefore I see no reason to run it for long runs or days at the time for testing.
I open the doors, remove the radiator cap, and feed the tube for my antifreeze hydrometer into the radiator to check antifreeze content and level. Next I remove the dipstick to check the oil level which reads almost a quart high but I know I put in the prescribed amount when I did the oil change. After that I connect my load bank and reconnect the bonding strap for the ground. Then I start the engine, holding it in start position until it has oil pressure. Next I look at the meter that I installed for voltage and Hertz to make sure it's reading. After verifying that it starts and runs properly I open both doors and look for any leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Then I close it back up and let the unit warm up. After the gauge indicates the engine is at operating temperature I will apply a small load. I will increase load amounts in progression up to the maximum 52 amps, then back it down to 40 and let it run a couple of hours. Then I remove load in progression until it has none, allowing it to cool, and finally shutting it down. After the test I will open the doors and perform another visual inspection. I finish up by topping off the fuel, disconnecting bonding strap, and load bank. I do not connect the auxiliary fuel system on every test. I may include that every so often.
After getting my machine sorted out it has never failed any of the above tests. Therefore I see no reason to run it for long runs or days at the time for testing.
A very complete and rigorous test - impressive. I agree, once operating temperature is attained, not much is gained going past an hour or 2, unless it relates to a symptom of a recent repair.
With what happened (the alleged excuse anyway.....) sounds like BA airlines could have used you at their data-centre last week ! Too bad you couldn't have run 'em an extension cord :laughing:
Rgds, D.
gilbertmsg
Gold Member
Last night, someone hit pole a few miles up the road. Power out for about 4 hours. Have Sams Club Blackmax 8000 watt that is 9 years old. 13hp Honda, I start when needed. Has always started with little to no maintenance, guess I am lucky. I may pull out and run engine with small load a few times per year. Ran everything in home that was needed except heat pump. My spouse has 12,000 BTU in master bed that runs 24 hours a day, 365 days per year due to health issues.
Eddie
Eddie
