Your last generator Maintenance Run
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Rustyiron
Super Member
I built a little 9x10 building for it.
Chilliwack (love that name)
here's the heater.
Rustyiron
Super Member
I'd love to have a throttle control or at least an idle position, but yes this is immediately right up against the governed rpm and I'm definitely a warmer upper kinda guy.
ultrarunner
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Where I come from we call that a Power House
Industrial Toys
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I would love that too. Like Governors of America. Also a better way to regulate fuel and speed than the mechanical OEM governor. Mind you, if a set only does 1800 rpm, it's not that bad for start up speed. I just love when a big generator ramps up RPM after warm up.
ultrarunner
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The temp tag on the heater is 1800W with literature stating 140 F
The label on the box is 1500W and a colder temp
Industrial Toys
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That is a crap load of heat. I have a 530 watt block heater in my Onan 7.5. I played around with a transformer that halved voltage to 60 volts and thus the power is a quarter at 124 watts (I miscalculated that actually, thinking it would be half) but was surprised that given time, the block was warm to the touch.
Rustyiron
Super Member
That'll do, can I adopt that one?:laughing:
Chilliwack Murray
Gold Member
That’s a standard industrial heater usually called a beehive. You can get a lower temp thermostat (installs on the underside under the cover where the cord is) but 1800W heaters don’t last long, they just get too hot when they’re running even though they shut off. Best bet is a 1000W, they last almost forever, just runs longer to provide the same amount of heat to the block.
140F is also way too hot, an inlet temp of 140 means your block will be around 170 or more and all the hoses and gaskets will fail within a year or two. That’s like running the engine 24/7. You only need to keep the block around room temperature if you allow it to run for a few minutes before putting load on it. The heater should never keep the engine more than 120-130F.
On the topic of inline heaters on rad hoses, they are the least efficient as most the heat is lost through the rad and the flow is restricted by the engine thermostat. I’ve seen a few over the years but they’ve always been abandoned and not in use, just left in the hose.
If you use an immersion heater in a frost plug , you can get a thermostat well and a wye cord to control the temperature but like someone else said, they don’t last all that long... 1-3 years typically.
140F is also way too hot, an inlet temp of 140 means your block will be around 170 or more and all the hoses and gaskets will fail within a year or two. That’s like running the engine 24/7. You only need to keep the block around room temperature if you allow it to run for a few minutes before putting load on it. The heater should never keep the engine more than 120-130F.
On the topic of inline heaters on rad hoses, they are the least efficient as most the heat is lost through the rad and the flow is restricted by the engine thermostat. I’ve seen a few over the years but they’ve always been abandoned and not in use, just left in the hose.
If you use an immersion heater in a frost plug , you can get a thermostat well and a wye cord to control the temperature but like someone else said, they don’t last all that long... 1-3 years typically.
Chilliwack Murray
Gold Member
Also, use the very best quality hose on the outlet side of that heater, 1800W will cook it in no time. Do yourself a favour and thread a couple full port ball valves into the block so you can isolate the heater when the hose needs replacing... If I remember right, that engine had a brass frost plug adapter on the back of the heat for the block heater hose, might be tough to get the hose barb out as I don't think there was a way to hold it from turning once it was installed.
