YM1700 injector timing question
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
If ur going to remove ALL the shims, rotate the engine BY HAND a couple of times to MAKE SURE the pump cam isn’t going to bottom out into the pump..
THAT would be bad.
THAT would be bad.
Just to follow up, I had leading and lagging backwards for the injector pump timing. I was able to get pretty close to the injector timing mark with one 0.001" and one 0.0005" shim. This was with the injector pump control rack pushed all the way towards the back of the tractor. I noticed that if I pushed the rack forward, the fuel would flow at pulley locations past (more clockwise) where it would flow when the rack was all the way back. So it seemed important to have the injector pump rack in the same position for the timing checks as different shims were tested.
Just to follow up - it seems like the starting is quite a bit better but still not quick to start. I think there is another issue in that besides being somewhat hard to start, there is a lot of black smoke and it doesn't run for long before it just slows down and stops without load. In putting everything back together I had to remove the head to get a front pre-combustion chamber out of the head that got stuck without bottoming on the copper sealing ring. So I put a new head gasket on and tested compression with the combustion chambers in place and got about 500 psi in each cylinder after several strokes. I have a new fuel bowl and line to the injector pump. I redid the injector to fuel tank fuel return line because I had a bit of leakage there.
bmaverick
Super Member
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- Sep 17, 2013
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- Yanmar YM2610 ■YANMAR GURU■ EXTRAORDINAIRE
Goose, I've shared this Do's and Do-Nots with those having the issues you are experiencing.
How to keep the soot away and ways to prevent having the head warp and crack on these Yanmar engines.
- Do not let the engine idle below 1200rpms for longer than 10mins max at a time. And the time is with 20mins between.
- Do use 10W30 summer and 5W30 winter for engine oil. Do not use the heavy thicker 15W40 as it will holds the heat longer in the engine. Yanmar makes engines to JIS standards, not SAE. So the cooling oil passages are narrower in metric.
- Do keep the air intake filter clean. Clogged filter makes the engine work harder and heat builds up within the engine.
- Do keep the radiator and the screen clean.
- Do check the coolant. Do not use extended life coolants in these vintage machines.
- Do start the tractor slightly above idle.
- Do not race the engine from slow to fast and fast to slow.
- Do slow the engine speed down gradually, idle for 15 seconds then turn the engine off.
Some of these tips are from Deere, some are in the Yanmar USA bulletins and some came from the Yanmar JP website before 2018.
Now, with all of that said, your machine could have an old lazy starter. This happens often with solenoid starters vs. the modern OSGR starters. As the solenoid ages, subject to heat and humidity, the electrical resistance rises. This in turn raises the amp draw from the battery, as the charging circuit is maxed out on the YM series to 35amps, the entire system becomes sluggish. With OSGR starters, this is never the case to bog down like the older solenoid types do.
To help remove the build up of black soot from inside the working combustion of a diesel engine, the use of Seafoam is required. This will work faster than any PowerServe product with better results. Seafoam was originally created just for this purpose, diesel tractors.
Let's us help save your machine before troubles become way wore and costly for repairs. The small ounce of preventing and treatment wards off a huge disaster about to happen.
ponytug
Super Member
Can you clarify this at all? What do you mean by "there is a lot of black smoke", and "it just slows down and stops without load..." ? Is there always black smoke? Just at starting? When working, or idling? When it slows down and stops, is it idling? Working? Medium throttle? Any throttle?
Have you bled your injector pump to injector lines?
All the best,
Peter
B maverick - thanks for sharing the do and don't list.
Peter- it is smoky from the time I start it while sitting with no load. In the short video Smoky dying tractor this is at medium throttle after running a minute or so. I have bled the pump to injector lines. I am thinking of cracking the injector line to injector connections while running to see if the response is the same for each.
Peter- it is smoky from the time I start it while sitting with no load. In the short video Smoky dying tractor this is at medium throttle after running a minute or so. I have bled the pump to injector lines. I am thinking of cracking the injector line to injector connections while running to see if the response is the same for each.
T
Good idea.
ponytug
Super Member
That's not black smoke to me. That's grey/white smoke, and is a sign of overfueling, coolant leakage, bad injectors, or blown injector timing, and / or compression loss. It looks as if it is both cylinders or injectors, which points me towards the fuel line, or timing, or injectors. I would start by carefully bleeding the whole fuel system.
learndiesels.com
Engine smoke is a great diagnostic tool. Have a look at YouTube for examples; e.g.
Have you checked your coolant for normal level, and for gas bubbles or oil?
All the best,
Peter
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learndiesels.com
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www.dieselbombers.com
Engine smoke is a great diagnostic tool. Have a look at YouTube for examples; e.g.
Have you checked your coolant for normal level, and for gas bubbles or oil?
All the best,
Peter