Yet another snow removal question - experiences needed

[bxowner]

And you thought the question couldn't possibly be asked again! I'll try to frame it differently, though: whoever has plowed with a FEL, a front mount blade AND a rear-mount blade - please speak up!

I have a 2320 and spent too much time removing 6" on Monday. I have a budget of $1200. I'll list the downsides of each one.

Option #1: Paynesforks has a FEL-mount blade assembly for $1100 delivered. No hydraulics, but seems quick to swap out.

Option #2: John Deere dedicated frame-mount plow is $1300. More than budget. The sub-frame assembly probably can't be mounted at the same time as the FEL. Blade is only 54", which will hardly cover my tracks when angled.

Option #3: Find a used 54"-60" blade, weld on the quick-attach brackets from Curtis Plows and switch out the 200CX FEL bucket. It'll stick out 3'-4' beyond the loader arms. No hydraulics. $300-500 (guessing - it wouldn't surprise me if the brackets were more). I risk bending loader arms (probably low risk, but the risk is there). Same is true of Option #1.

Option #4: Rear mount blade. Probably $400 at TSC.

My preference at this point is to go with #2. I really don't like the idea of the rear-mount, for all the same reasons that I don't like the idea of a rear-mount snowblower. I want the best quality clearing job in the least amount of time (as much as I enjoy seat-time, I don't have the luxury of being late to work).

FYI - I have a 28" Toro two-stage walk-behind + the factory FEL for really big snows.

Thanks.

 

[UpstateNYMarine]

Not going to argue either way whether a snowblower or blade is better but here is my perspective. This is the first winter in our new home and for our 2320. I was trying to save money and thought that I would try and make it through the season jsut using the FEL to move the snow. Not going to happen, made this decision after our first good snowfall. We have a driveway that is just over a 1/4 mile and it just wouldn't cut it. But I definately saw the need for it to move snow around in certain areas. So we made the decision to buy a rear mount 50" blower. Let me tell you this thing rocks. I use the FEL near the garage and the little parking paddock we have but use the snowblower to clear the main driveway. I like having both of them attached and at my disposal.

Yes as far as the chute goes if your aren't paying attention it can turn you into an INSTANT SNOWMAN. But as long as you pay attention and the wind stays at one direction it hasn't been a problem. The main benefit I saw is that after a month or so of heavy snow I won't have to deal with places to push the snow. I'll just keep shooting it into the woods and pasting it to the trees.

I got a great deal on the blower from a local dealer that sells buhler and if anyone wants it here is the

link...Allied Snowblowers - Buhler Industries Inc.

Anywho...happy holidays and enjoy the winter...

 

[gunmaker]

I bought the factory JD quick-hitch/hydraulics (+/- $550), then found a donor Meyers 6ft plow and adapted it to the quick-hitch for about $50.

 

[jcmseven]

BXOwner,

I have used all of your major options and the best so far is the front blade. Unfortunately, it is beyond your budget so it might not be an option. The other thing that we must think about is time. It would be great to find a used something or other to attach, but it is already snowing where you live and we even got 1" dusting last PM here in NC!!! I really think the rear blade does a fine job except for the deepest snows and it might get you through this year. I used one on my 4310 until my front blade came in and it did fine. I think with a 2320 the rear blade might be limited to less than 10" snowfalls for easy use, but could handle more if you were willing to back up more, which is less desirable. Coupled with the FEL it is a viable and cost effective option. I might have a lead on a 54" front blade. If you have an interest please PM me and I will check on it for you.

John M

 

[Woody71]

bxowner,

I was in pretty much the same situation as you a few weeks ago. I decided to try the rear blade route since I figured I could use it to grade my gravel driveway if it didn't work out for snow. 2 weeks ago I picked up a Buhler 60 inch blade for about $380 at the local JD dealership. It looked a lot more substantial than the ones the TSC here had. By Tuesday morning this week we had received over 8 inches of snow, but we also had a lot of wind that made some drifts over 2 feet deep. Instead of backing up with the blade, I decided to pull it forward fully angled to the right, but run with the front end loader bucket about 8 inches from the ground to break through the tops of the drifts so I wouldn't get the tractor hung up. It seems to work well so far and only took about 15 minutes to clear my 350' drive and turn around area. I'll see how the rest of the winter goes.

 

[wxboy]

I forget the exact price I paid for the quick hitch and 54" blade for my 2305 but I believe it was less than $1,200. The invoice is in my basement but I'm too lazy to go down to check it right now. My point is that if you want to go for option #2 just shop around until you can get it to be priced within your budget. And I wouldn't worry about the width of it. I've used the same plow on a 4115 which is the same size as the 2520 and I never noticed that it didn't cover the tracks.

Get the blade, you will love it.

 

[skidoo]

I have a Toro snow blower which I no longer use. I found it was not suitable for a gravel drive with large rocks embedded. It also threw the rocks further into the grass. I did not like getting covered with snow. So, I went to the Toro front blade. The da*n engineers could not design the thing to angle more than 15 deg without hitting the tires. It plowed without getting so covered in snow. Even though it was not as efficient with the shallow angle, I liked it better than the blower. Now I have a 2520 with a rear blade. I really like this and it works fine for most of the drive going forward. There are some areas where going backwards works best and it has no problems. I really like this rear blade!

 

[B8FISH]

Well...I like the loader rear blade combo as well. I use the blade turned around for light snowfalls and also until the gravel is frozen so as not to dig up too much. I think you can clear 8-10" easily, and more if you angle it. The loader (as already mentioned) makes a great leveling tool to cut through any drifts or excessive snowfalls. My driveway exits onto a heavily travelled route and I need to be careful when I get near the end. The loader also helps me move any snow my neighbor piles up that cuts visibility exiting the drive.

 

[Egon]

Mount the snow blower on the front bucket. Run the snow blower several inches off the ground to save on shear pins and use the rear blade to clean up the rest! You can run both at the same time.

 

[RalphVa]

I use my FEL in tandem with a rear blade. The rear blade is much quicker than using the FEL. Just use it to get rid of piles in hard-to-get-at places. The rear blade is manual swing and tilt, etc. I have no problem going backwards with it. For small snowfalls, going forward works fine.

Used a front blade on my Gravely. It worked really well.

The rear blade on my 4010 JD cost $250 from the dealer and is a frontier, a 5' one.

Ralph

 

[JCB]

I agree with Woody71.

I've used the loader/rear blade combo on a 2210 for a couple years now. It works well and fits a budget. It'll be 10 times faster than just your loader alone and is the cheapest way to get moving snow. It's also handy because you've got the loader, and with any blade, at some point you'll need to move piles.

My rear blade typically clears 2-4" snow, with minimal problems. 6" get tougher. 8" +, nothing is easy and you're gonna wish you spent the money on a front blower.

Joe

 

[Egon]

What?? you cannot move 20 inches of snow with your rear blade???

 

[gunmaker]

I move the 20" with my front blade, then use the rear blade to clean up and push the snow back a little more!

 

[Mackinac Joe]

Bxowner,

I can speak to front blade option. Last weekend was the first chance to plow snow with the 2320.

I have the front blade mounted with a quick hitch to the frame. You're right; the FEL must come off to put the blade on. Taking off the FEL and putting on the blade mount can both be done in five minutes. You're probably aware that the blade uses the same hydraulic connections as the FEL.

We had 4" of snow with a freezing-rain crust on top. My driveway is gravel. My R-4s are unfilled. I used the ballast box. I put down the skid shoes on the blade. I was surprised that I hardly slipped at all pushing the snow. I thought I might be too light and might need chains, but it worked great. I did have to use the steering brakes at times when the blade was angled sharply.

If you go with the front blade and you also have the MMM, make sure you have the correct mounting bracket for the front of the tractor. The first one the dealer set me up with mated with the MMM, but not the blade. (Glad I discovered that in July!) They finally found me the right bracket that mates to both the MMM and the blade mount. Sorry, I don't know the part numbers. Just be aware of the possible mismatch and ask questions.

You'll have to decide if you can exceed your budget for the front blade, but I will say that I'm very happy with its performance in snow. I also leveled 200 yards of sand/clay with it last summer.

Joe

 

[LBrown59]

And you thought the question couldn't possibly be asked again! I'll try to frame it differently, though: whoever has plowed with a FEL, a front mount blade AND a rear-mount blade - please speak up!

I have a 2320 and spent too much time removing 6" on Monday. I have a budget of $1200. I'll list the downsides of each one.

Option #1: Paynesforks has a FEL-mount blade assembly for $1100 delivered. No hydraulics, but seems quick to swap out.

Option #2: John Deere dedicated frame-mount plow is $1300. More than budget. The sub-frame assembly probably can't be mounted at the same time as the FEL. Blade is only 54", which will hardly cover my tracks when angled.

Option #3: Find a used 54"-60" blade, weld on the quick-attach brackets from Curtis Plows and switch out the 200CX FEL bucket. It'll stick out 3'-4' beyond the loader arms. No hydraulics. $300-500 (guessing - it wouldn't surprise me if the brackets were more). I risk bending loader arms (probably low risk, but the risk is there). Same is true of Option #1.

Option #4: Rear mount blade. Probably $400 at TSC.

option # 5FYI - I have a 28" Toro two-stage walk-behind

Option #6 get a front blade with a tractor on it.
Thanks.

I went with option # 6
option #5 Any body ever rigged up a way to mount a walk behind to work on a tractor.

 

[LBrown59]

Well...I like the loader rear blade combo as well. .

I like this combination:
BX23 with FEL
BX 1500 with front blade.

 

[MossRoad]

A front mounted snow blade on your FEL arms in place of the bucket will do the best job if you cannot spring the $$ for a blower. With my little PT425 and a front mounted pwoer angle blade on the FEL arms, I can stack snow over 6' high. The plow is out front where you can see it and not behind you where you have to keep an eye on it. Being able to curl the blade up and down makes it act just like a scoop to pile stuff up and then dump it like a bucket. The power angle is also really helpful, but you could get by very nicely with a three position manual lock of left-right-center.

For a budget system, I would find a used blade and weld brackets into my FEL bucket so that I could pin the blade into the bucket when needed. That should be attainable for under $500.00.

 

[MossRoad]

Here's a picture of how well it works. Click here.

 

[skidoo]

Here's a picture of how well it works. Click here.

I can see how many properties can utilize a method of piling snow such as yours. That's a nice blade system!

Everyones situation is likely to vary, with some substantially different. Mine for example, most of my drive has a cliff or steep slope on one side. So, with my rear blade, I just simply push it over the cliff or slope...

 

[Yourkie]

The rear blade FEL combo has worked well for me too. Depending on what I'm doing I use both at the same time, esp if I'm doing my parking area. You can move snow forward and reverse.

I use a 7' Frontier rear blade on a 3720 and a 6' on a 755.

A front blade was nice to have but I found R&R the front blade and its subframe assy just too time consuming when you have a FEL.

I'm considering a 62-66" 3 pt snowblower, just to have it around for big snows. I have a 8hp walk behind that I've had for years that has opened things up when the 755 tractor and blade couldn't.