YAPB (yet another pole barn)

[Neuropel]

Regarding the metal posts, I have another question. I've found that I can get similar sized "H" beam for quite a lot cheaper than the tubing. Strengthwise, how would something like that hold up versus the square tubing? A local metal shop put an addition on to their building using it, which is why I ask.
Thanks!
Todd K.

 

[skid mark]

Hi Todd-

I bet that you are right. Just yesterday after I read your note I was walking through the gym at the school where I work and noticed that the roof was supported by steel I/H beams. None of the books that I have include any specs for those so I can't give you any specific numbers, but I would sure guess that an equally sized I beam would perform similar to tubing.

Just curious, what is the price difference? Maybe I should have considered that option!

If the weather holds, it looks like we'll be pouring concrete by the end of next week!!!

Mark

 

[Neuropel]

Best price I've found for the tubing is around $7.85 per foot. But a local yard said the H beam would be less than half, perhaps in the $2-3 range. I'm going to take a look on Saturday.

I wish I was near the concrete stage! I had a guy in there with a dozer a few weeks ago but he had to stop due to the weather, leaving a huge muddy mess. Now there's about 8" of snow on top of it, and perhaps more coming next week. I guess that'll just give me more time to prep my poles!

Todd

 

[skid mark]

An update on the progress to date.

We did the rough in for the plumbing the week before last...

 

[skid mark]

...it wasn't too big a job because the plumbing needs were small. This shop will have an office area that might one of these days be used as an efficiency apartment.

So outside of the bathroom there is a kitchen sink on one side and a shop sink on the other side of the divider between office area and workshop.

Backing these two other sinks up to the bathroom keeps all of the plumbing in a small area. With good insulation, a small space heater in the bath should protect all of the plumbing from freezing during the dead of winter.

(image of Autocad plans for bath attached)

 

[skid mark]

Then last week we dug the footings between the poles and at the gable end walls...

 

[skid mark]

... set the forms and rebar and poured the concrete...

 

[skid mark]

Ended up pouring 47 yards of concrete. Here my wife is setting the very last of 57 anchor bolts in place while my friend and neighbor finishes the slab and the concrete contractor works on the front door.

Everything turned out pretty well. There are a couple things that aren't 100% up to my obsessive standards, but nothing that can't be fudged or just lived with.

 

[skid mark]

Bought some used scaffolding over the weekend. It is the "walk through" type which doesn't have any steps like the "utility" scaffolding I've used in the past. So I welded up some steps using leftover 1" tubing. This works pretty well because I can walk into the scaffold from one end and then climb up the other. I also built a second plank at 9.5' high out of some scrap lumber in addition to the aluminum plank at 7'. Between the two, I should be able to reach most of what I need. It's nice to finally own some scaffolding of my own versus borrowing from friends as I'm sure that it'll be a loooooong time before I'm done with this building!

So I'm now ready to start cutting the poles to length, welding on my mending plates and building walls. I'm planning to have enough of the walls up and braced to allow me to put up the roof rafters in six weeks or so if the weekend weather coorperates...

Pictured is my wife testing out the scaffold. I'm happy to say that it held up just fine. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[kevinO]

Looks good. It must be nice to be beyond the planning stage!

Did they pour your concrete all at once or did they pour the footings first and then come back and pour the slab? I've started talking to some concrete folks and some of them are encouraging me to pour footings and slab separately.

What are the pros and cons of these two options for the concrete?

 

[drm]

Phantom,

Progress looks good and the job looks great. I know what you mean by it not being 100% I’m an engineer who is also a perfectionist. No one else may ever know the flaws but I'm sure that they stand out to you.

Over the years I have been trying to not be so meticulous and neurotic. I am in the design stage of a pole barn and not looking forward to the quality of building I will have since I will hire out most if not all work. Just don't have the time or energy.

Back to YAPB, I am glad your building is coming along. Good luck with the continued progress.

 

[drm]

Kevin,

If you want to reduce the potential for cracking problems in a typical slab on grade, the foundations and slab should be placed separately. They should be isolated from each other. If yu are going to place the integrally you must have a properly compacted subgrade and sufficient steel reinforcing tying the foundation to the slab.

From what I have seen and read, Phantom did the latter.

 

[skid mark]

Hello. Weather and work have slowed me down lately but I'm hoping to get busy again soon.

The only progress to post is that my poles are pretty much finished. Welded the 3/8" mending plates for the 2x12 headers and the angle iron clips for the 2x4 girts to the poles, trimmed the poles to the right height and put a cap on top of the poles.

 

[skid mark]

...another picture...

 

[skid mark]

So here's my question. I'm starting to think about the roofing. I think that I'll go with metal and have read lots on negative feedback of metal roofs.

The worst problem, IMO, is that the roof will eventually develop leaks around the fasteners. This will require the fasteners to be tightened, replaced and/or caulked up with silicone.

We have a Mueller factory here and they sell a "concealed fastener" roof panel that hides all of the fasteners! To me, this sounds like a great way to go since the fasteners are

a) protected from the elements
b) don't really need to be water tight as no water should get to them!

Does anybody have any experience or comments on them?

It looks to me that as long as the locking seams seal up well, this should be one waterproof roof!

Here is a link to Mueller's CF panel description

Best,

Mark

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm enjoying your post and following your method for building your barn. It's different then what I'm used to, which makes it more fun to watch.

Your comment about the negative feedback on metal roofs is new to me. I thought I kept up on most of the posts, but obviouly not.

My experience with metal roofs is only with the traditional panels, never with the hidden fastner stuff.

From what I've seen and in conversation with others, the secret is using quality screws for your fastners. Cheap screws wont last. They rust out and the gaskets shrink and crack.

If you buy the good screws, tighten them properly, you'll have a 30 plus year roof.

When you talk to the guys at Mueller, ask about the screws on the regular roof panels. I think they'll confirm what I've just said.

Thanks for posting the photos,
Eddie

 

[drm]

Mark,

Your poles look strong and I would expect that they will provide a good building support.

As far as negatives on metal roofing on pole buildings, in this area the roof needs to be insulated. If you do no insulate under the metal roofing, you will get condensation on the bottom of the roof causing humidity problems and water dripping IN your building. Do not recall the area you are in or the weather if this is a concern there.

If you are going to be living in it (not likely) you would want more insulation to deaden the sounds of rain and wind on the roof (and walls). The inside of these buildings can also get loud during storms.

Good luck on your continued progress.

...Derek

 

[skid mark]

Thought I'd post a few more recent pictures as this thread is pretty stale...

After the steel poles were welded up and ready to go, I started on the wood framing. I put 2x4's horizontally on the clips and double 2x12 headers on the mending plates on top to support the roof trusses.

 

[skid mark]

Over the garage doors I used a pair of 3.5x12 GluLam beams.

 

[skid mark]

I bought thirty two 42' roof trusses. When they were delivered, the owner of the company that made the trusses said "do not attempt to put these trusses in place with fewer than four men".

He must have thought I was nuts when I told him that it was just going to be my wife and I! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

We used a home-made boom pole and a winch which I installed on top of my tractor to lift the trusses.

To keep them from flexing too much, I made a twenty foot spreader bar to secure the winch line to the rafters instead of just attaching at the peak.

In this picture, we've just lifted the first rafter off the ground and are getting ready to give it a go to install it on the rear gable wall.