I have a YM2000 that I recently bought and am trying to start. The engine spins quickly with the decompression on. It occasionally puffs smoke. When I move the decompression off the engine spins much slower but does not start. The fuel tank was nearly dry so I added fresh fuel. What is the best way to get the old fuel out of the system? The tractor has been sitting an unknown amount of time but probably several years.
Oil & Fuel Yanmar YM2000 Won't start
- Thread starter Foolster
- Start date
Mr Bitz
Gold Member
There is probably air in the lines.. Best way to get rid of the old fuel is to pull the line form the fuel filter housing that goes to the fuel tank and let it drain from the tank. Then pull the fuel filter and install a new one. Make sure to fill the fuel tank full with new/fresh fuel, this will help bleed out the lines. Once you have done this crank it over a few times and see what happens.. Make sure the fuel filter bowl is full of fuel. I would then crack the fuel lines to each injector, I believe you need a 23 metric wrench to do this, just loosen then maybe 1/2 turn is all.. Crank the tractor until you see fuel start to come out of the line(s) then stop and tighten that one up, do this to each one and once you have them tight see what happens, it should fire up and the system should be purged of air. If you don't get any fuel out of the fuel lines you'll have to go back to the fuel filter and make sure you have fuel in the bowl. Then follow the line that goes to the fuel injector pump from the fuel filter bowl and try to bleed that the same way you did the injector lines. Some of these at the injector pump have a screw or a little spring loaded bolt head you can push on to purge the fuel.. Hope this helps.. Good luck..
California
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I agree, drain the fuel system until fresh fuel reaches the pump. And replace the filter if that seems needed. But the dealer-recommended air bleed process is as follows:
Open the bleed screw at the fuel filter inlet, let it drain until no more air comes out. Close it. Open the bleed screw on the outlet side of the filter, bleed, close. Same at the bleed screw down at the injector pump inlet. But - for bleeding air, there is nothing gained by opening the high pressure lines at the injectors. Maybe in this case it would help purge contaminated fuel but generally it is unnecessary and won't help.
Verify that the Thermostart reservoir has fresh fuel in it. Take off the air cleaner and verify that the TS module creates a small flame, or at least makes fuel vapor. (TS is an option, not needed in pleasant weather).
After warming the manifold with the TS, spin the engine with compression released, close the release and keep cranking. The inertia of the flywheel added to the starter's torque should help it turn fast enough to start.
If it ran ok when parked that's all it should need. These are simple engines and not much can go wrong (assuming somebody didn't take stuff apart and get it back together wrong!)
Extraordinary measures: assist the battery with another battery and jumpers, or with a 2/10/50 battery charger, to make it spin faster. And/or warm the intake side of the head with a hair dryer then direct the hair dryer into the air filter intake while you crank.
Or just tow the darn thing in 8th gear until it fires.
Tell us what you find!
Open the bleed screw at the fuel filter inlet, let it drain until no more air comes out. Close it. Open the bleed screw on the outlet side of the filter, bleed, close. Same at the bleed screw down at the injector pump inlet. But - for bleeding air, there is nothing gained by opening the high pressure lines at the injectors. Maybe in this case it would help purge contaminated fuel but generally it is unnecessary and won't help.
Verify that the Thermostart reservoir has fresh fuel in it. Take off the air cleaner and verify that the TS module creates a small flame, or at least makes fuel vapor. (TS is an option, not needed in pleasant weather).
After warming the manifold with the TS, spin the engine with compression released, close the release and keep cranking. The inertia of the flywheel added to the starter's torque should help it turn fast enough to start.
If it ran ok when parked that's all it should need. These are simple engines and not much can go wrong (assuming somebody didn't take stuff apart and get it back together wrong!)
Extraordinary measures: assist the battery with another battery and jumpers, or with a 2/10/50 battery charger, to make it spin faster. And/or warm the intake side of the head with a hair dryer then direct the hair dryer into the air filter intake while you crank.
Or just tow the darn thing in 8th gear until it fires.
Tell us what you find!
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