yanmar 2000 won't start

Travis_R · Sep 18, 2006

Thanks Danny......I'll be purchasing.

runningbird · Oct 11, 2006

well I finally got around to the tractor today. pulled the pistons out and all the rings were intact. then I pull a ring off the piston and put it in the cylinder. the gap was about 3/4". all the rings were the same so I think I have found my problem. waiting on parts now. then I'll get it back together.
mark

mark777 · Oct 12, 2006

runningbird said:
well I finally got around to the tractor today. pulled the pistons out and all the rings were intact. then I pull a ring off the piston and put it in the cylinder. the gap was about 3/4". all the rings were the same so I think I have found my problem. waiting on parts now. then I'll get it back together.
mark

Wow! I just have to ask...did you try the rings at the top, center and bottom of the cylinder wall? I'm wondering how much taper you may (or may not) have in your liners? Glad you found the problem.

Mark

Eddie · Oct 12, 2006

runningbird said:
well I finally got around to the tractor today. pulled the pistons out and all the rings were intact. then I pull a ring off the piston and put it in the cylinder. the gap was about 3/4". all the rings were the same so I think I have found my problem. waiting on parts now. then I'll get it back together.
mark

Had the same thing on my 1700. And they were the same all way up and down.

Eddie · Oct 12, 2006

I meant to post picture.

tallyho8 · Oct 12, 2006

The ring gap in the photo appears to be about 3/16" and not nearly 3/4", however, this is still way too much as maximum ring gap should be no more than 1 mm. Minimum ring gap should always be measured at the bottom of the cylinder instead of the top because the top wears more and will frequently have more gap than the bottom. If ring gap is set for the top of the cylinder, the rings can bind up when they hit bottom. If ring gap varies too much between the top and bottom of the cylinder, then the cylinder must be honed or bored to correct the deviation.

runningbird · Oct 12, 2006

that picture looks like mine. the top ring on each piston was about twice that much gap. the others are a little wider than the picture.
my question now is about gaskets. I have ordered a head gasket. can I use rtv for the oil pan and water pump housing or should I get gaskets.
thanks for the help.
mark

Gizmo36 · Oct 12, 2006

The head gasket will look like it will go any way you put it . But it will only work right one way.

Eddie · Oct 12, 2006

runningbird said:
that picture looks like mine. the top ring on each piston was about twice that much gap. the others are a little wider than the picture.
my question now is about gaskets. I have ordered a head gasket. can I use rtv for the oil pan and water pump housing or should I get gaskets.
thanks for the help.
mark

I put all new gaskets on mine. I think it's cheap insurance against leaks. Mine didn't have a water pump on it at the time, but while I had it all down I put one on it. Best thing I've ever done.

By the way, Mine still started and ran good, it just smoked, blue smoke, and had excessive oil usage. All this was fixed with new rings and valve job.

dfkrug · Oct 12, 2006

runningbird said:
that picture looks like mine. the top ring on each piston was about twice that much gap. the others are a little wider than the picture.
my question now is about gaskets. I have ordered a head gasket. can I use rtv for the oil pan and water pump housing or should I get gaskets.
thanks for the help.
mark

RTV silicone will work better than paper gaskets for the pan, WP, front
cover, etc. Takes a little longer, but works great. Some manufacturers
even do that now. RTV (orange) can even be used for the exh manifold.