XG3025 3 point control valve adjustment?

[nathan1648]

I have around 600 hrs on the tractor and over time the 3 point arms started to leak down while tractor is running. At first about every 30 seconds the implement would jump back up and gradually over time its happening every few seconds (after tractor is hot). I can turn the valve under the seat and lock the implement in place and it will not leak down which leads me to believe it could be an adjustment in the control valve for the 3 point. Also, if the tractor is off and the implement is not locked into place it will leak down to the ground in a matter of seconds. The front end loader has plenty of power and does not leak down while tractor is running or shut off- so I don't believe it to be a pump issue. I have done all the fluid/filter changes the manual requires. Any ideas? Thanks

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Seals on the rock shaft of the 3 point. It is a fairly easy repair.

 

[nathan1648]

Seals on the rock shaft of the 3 point. It is a fairly easy repair.

Thanks. Do I need to order from dealer? Will I have to change the fluid to replace them?

 

[PCABE5]

I just had this. Mine had the 3pt valve replaced.

Whether it is the valve or the o-ring seals on the top of the valve, the rockshaft cover has to come off.

 

[nathan1648]

I just had this. Mine had the 3pt valve replaced.

Whether it is the valve or the o-ring seals on the top of the valve, the rockshaft cover has to come off.

Did they put a new valve in or rebuild yours? Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit from LS?

 

[PCABE5]

Did they put a new valve in or rebuild yours? Does anyone know if there is a rebuild kit from LS?

Replaced under warranty. LS does not offer the valve parts separately.

You can look up the parts here:

Parts - LS Tractor USA

Keep your equipment running at peak performance with genuine LS Tractor parts. Find quality components and lookup tools via your dealer.

lstractorusa.com

 

[nathan1648]

Replaced under warranty. LS does not offer the valve parts separately.

You can look up the parts here:

Parts - LS Tractor USA

Keep your equipment running at peak performance with genuine LS Tractor parts. Find quality components and lookup tools via your dealer.

lstractorusa.com

Thanks. The problem didn't get bad until I got over 600 hours. I was trying to avoid putting in a new one but looks like I don't have a choice. I called the mechanic at dealer and he said to take it apart and clean it- which I have no idea how hard that job would be for a youtube amatuer mechanic like me.

 

[PCABE5]

We took mine apart and couldn't find anything wrong. Dealer suspected the check valve or spring were faulty but it could have been in the bore as well. Hard to say.

I will say that if you don't have a service manual you need one to replace that valve. There are setup dimensions you need to set when you install it.

 

[nathan1648]

I looked for manual online. May have to get from dealer

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

PM me your email.... I can send the hydraulic chapter out of the service manual.

 

[Cycledude]

Has it been fixed ?

 

[nathan1648]

Has it been fixed ?

Sorry for the 3 year delayed response! I'm just seeing your comment now for some reason. No it has not been fixed. It's been gradually getting worse and now the tractor has about 1000 hours on it. I can still do everything I need to do with the tractor so I decided to put off the repair until it gets really bad. I was planning on doing the rockshaft seals first and if that didn't work I was going to replace the three point control valve. I'm going to have to do the work myself because my local LS dealer dropped LS and there isn't one nearby. I'm not a good mechanic so I'm hoping to watch some youtube videos. I do have the service manual. Overall the tractor has been good (minus this issue). I will update this thread when I decide to take on this repair. I did notice the control valve itself is now selling for over $400 so maybe I should have bought it 4 years ago!

 

[GS650GL]

You previously stated that if you screwed in the drop speed valve all the way to the lock position, the hitch no longer settled. This tells you that the oil is not bypassing the seals in the rockshaft cylinder and has to be going out through the hitch valve. If the rockshaft cylinder seals were leaking, closing the drop speed valve would make no difference and the hitch would still settle. Closing the drop speed valve to lock position stops oil from going out through the hitch valve so the problem has to be in the hitch valve. There are a couple of spools that can stick and a check valve that can leak. You can try to fix it, but most likely it will need to be replaced. There is an adjustment on the spools, but it doesn't get out of adjustment by itself so trying to adjust it probably won't fix it.

 

[nathan1648]

You previously stated that if you screwed in the drop speed valve all the way to the lock position, the hitch no longer settled. This tells you that the oil is not bypassing the seals in the rockshaft cylinder and has to be going out through the hitch valve. If the rockshaft cylinder seals were leaking, closing the drop speed valve would make no difference and the hitch would still settle. Closing the drop speed valve to lock position stops oil from going out through the hitch valve so the problem has to be in the hitch valve. There are a couple of spools that can stick and a check valve that can leak. You can try to fix it, but most likely it will need to be replaced. There is an adjustment on the spools, but it doesn't get out of adjustment by itself so trying to adjust it probably won't fix it.

I really appreciate your comment. I'm finally getting around to fixing this problem on the tractor because it's has got worse the past few years. It's got about 1500 hours on it now. It makes sense that the oil isn't bypassing the seals in the rockshaft. Glad I read your comment before going after the rockshaft first. I did contact the dealer that sold me the tractor (big dealer in eastern NC) and the mechanic there says it's just trash in the three point control valve. He told me to take it apart and clean it. Now I'm debating if I should try cleaning the valve or just buying a new valve and replacing it. Does anyone know if it would be an easy job just to take the valve apart and clean it? I don't have any experience in hydraulic repairs so I'm trying to do the least complicated job.

The only other issue the tractor has had throughout the years was this winter it would not start on cold days. After doing some research I found out the three nuts on the buss for the glow plugs got loose and the glow plugs weren't getting power. All I had to do is torque down those nuts and problem solved. I really enjoy fixing problems that don't cost any money. I've got more time than money!

Thanks for everyone's comments and advice!

 

[GS650GL]

I would try taking the valve apart and cleaning and checking it first before replacing it. The hitch cover has to be removed which is not a bad job on a tractor that size. The seat and sheet metal under the seat need to come off first. The manual says to remove the rear wheels, fenders, and fuel tank, but that's not necessary. The valve is bolted to the underside of the cover. MT40250285 hitch valve was about $270 at Messick's, but don't know if and how much that has changed. LS parts prices have increased another 7 % in the last month.
There is a main valve spool, a lowering spool, and a check valve on one side of the valve body, and and an unload valve on the other side. Your service manual will show a breakdown of the internal parts, but none are available separately. You can only buy a complete valve. The spools probably won't make it leak down, (although there is an o-ring on the lowering spool). The check valve and unload valve could definitely make it leak down if they are sticking or not making a good seal against the seat, allowing oil to seep past. Don't mess with the adjustment jam nuts on the spools. Trust me on this. There is also a safety relief valve in the right front corner of the hitch cover that should be inspected.

 

[nathan1648]

I would try taking the valve apart and cleaning and checking it first before replacing it. The hitch cover has to be removed which is not a bad job on a tractor that size. The seat and sheet metal under the seat need to come off first. The manual says to remove the rear wheels, fenders, and fuel tank, but that's not necessary. The valve is bolted to the underside of the cover. MT40250285 hitch valve was about $270 at Messick's, but don't know if and how much that has changed. LS parts prices have increased another 7 % in the last month.
There is a main valve spool, a lowering spool, and a check valve on one side of the valve body, and and an unload valve on the other side. Your service manual will show a breakdown of the internal parts, but none are available separately. You can only buy a complete valve. The spools probably won't make it leak down, (although there is an o-ring on the lowering spool). The check valve and unload valve could definitely make it leak down if they are sticking or not making a good seal against the seat, allowing oil to seep past. Don't mess with the adjustment jam nuts on the spools. Trust me on this. There is also a safety relief valve in the right front corner of the hitch cover that should be inspected.

Thanks for the advice. It makes a big difference knowing what to inspect and not wasting time taking off unnecessary parts. It's a shame LS has gone up 7% on parts. Do you know if that price increase impacts all manufacturers? Or is it just LS? Was worried about parts 10 years ago when I purchased the tractor. Once I get the valve cleaned or replaced I'll post on this thread what the actual problem was. Hopefully I'll be able to get to it sooner than later.

Thanks again!