Would a tooth bar do this..

[thatguy]

Behind my house i have some land that is VERY bumpy (differences of of 1 to 2' in places) - it appears that sometime pre-me they dumbed backfill there and never smoothed it out.. its rough enough that I tried to bushhog it once, but my 2320 would bottom out over and over (both tractor and rotary cutter) , so I just gave up.. it is also on the side of a hill - up and down is doable.. side to side could be dangerous do the dips/rises. The area is approx 150' x 150' with some of it much smoother than other parts

I have access to a 3pt disk but im not sure i would feel comfortable even going up and down with it..

Would a FEL toothbar work for this? Im thinking (working up/down hill) digging into the high spots to loosen the soil and then back drag it to fill the low spots.. move forward and lather, rinse, repeat..

I figure if i have a contractor do it they would want $200 to $500 (if not more) and for that I could buy a markham toothbar and have it for future uses

thanks

brian

 

[dodge man]

I've never used a box blade, but that sure sounds like the perfect use for one. I'm sure you could get the job done with the FEL and a tooth bar, it just might take a little more time.

 

[dex3361]

I think this is a great job for a tooth bar on the FEL bucket followed up with a box blade unless its big rocks or chunks of concrete tip big for the tractor. If and I had a tractor and had job like this I would attack it with the FEL in the spring. I noticed that you live in VA and in the spring the soil is much easier to work because the frost/freeze cycles have loosened it up for you. Go for it. A box blade is a must when doing the finish grading even if you rent one for this job.

 

[thatguy]

I've never used a box blade, but that sure sounds like the perfect use for one. I'm sure you could get the job done with the FEL and a tooth bar, it just might take a little more time.

If there werent so many dips and rises a box blade would work.. But from my experience trying to cut it a few times I would not attempt to drive over it.. I maybe could back into it and pull forward but that would be a pain in the neck (literally)..

I thought i may ask my neighbor who has an AG tractor to disk it for me, but that sorta take the fun out of it.. lol And im not sure if he would.. :-/

ALSO I would need to buy/borrow/rent a box blade - which is a whole another dilemma

lets me honest.. Im looking for a reason to justify buying a toothbar.. lol

Brian

 

[3RRL]

Get the toothbar and then get a boxblade after that.
Don't forget that you could use the scarifiers (rippers) on the boxblade to demolish those humps into loose soil. Then you could use either the bucket or boxblade to move the loosened soil.

 

[dex3361]

If there werent so many dips and rises a box blade would work.. But from my experience trying to cut it a few times I would not attempt to drive over it.. I maybe could back into it and pull forward but that would be a pain in the neck (literally)..

I thought i may ask my neighbor who has an AG tractor to disk it for me, but that sorta take the fun out of it.. lol And im not sure if he would.. :-/

ALSO I would need to buy/borrow/rent a box blade - which is a whole another dilemma

lets me honest.. Im looking for a reason to justify buying a toothbar.. lol

Brian

Now you have one. I take mine off in the winter and leave it on all the rest of the year. The toothbar adds strength to the front cutting edge of the bucket( and other reason).

 

[gerard]

You could do it with either but a box blade with scarifiers would do a quicker and easier job and beat up the tractor a little less. You can pull up some pretty big rocks with a box blade by driving forward while raising the 3 pt at the same time, often will pop them right out where it would take more time and digging to get the same rock up witha toothbar. (I have both and have used both to do what you're describing. I would use my box blade.

 

[ShenandoahJoe]

I've had good luck pointing the FEL toothbar straight down, so it's like a scarifier, or a 6-tine rake. Put the teeth two to three inches below the top of the high points. Then I follow up with a real rake on the three-point hitch, maybe one inch lower. Takes a few passes. (Gerard is right about the rocks, though.)

 

[Bumble Guy]

Behind my house i have some land that is VERY bumpy (differences of of 1 to 2' in places) - it appears that sometime pre-me they dumbed backfill there and never smoothed it out.. its rough enough that I tried to bushhog it once, but my 2320 would bottom out over and over (both tractor and rotary cutter) , so I just gave up.. it is also on the side of a hill - up and down is doable.. side to side could be dangerous do the dips/rises. The area is approx 150' x 150' with some of it much smoother than other parts

I have access to a 3pt disk but im not sure i would feel comfortable even going up and down with it..

Would a FEL toothbar work for this? Im thinking (working up/down hill) digging into the high spots to loosen the soil and then back drag it to fill the low spots.. move forward and lather, rinse, repeat..

I figure if i have a contractor do it they would want $200 to $500 (if not more) and for that I could buy a markham toothbar and have it for future uses

thanks

brian

Good morning ,I have a markham toolbar and use it tearing up concrete driveways annd asphalt drives made very well highly recomend,and yes toothbar will dig out those humps when the ground is thowed

 

[brin]

I would suggest you do some research on a roll over box blade...works great for going forward and then reverse. You can smooth fast and easy with a good one.