Work in progress, office/Storm shelter...

[Chuck K.]

While thinking of ideas for a bathroom with shower for my new shop I figured why not make it a storm shelter/safe room beings we live on the Texas gulf coast and evacuating for a hurricane is not an option..
I considered solid concrete walls but that was too expensive. I am not a fan of cider blocks even when filled with mortar. I found industrial CMU split faced blocks that seemed much stronger than a cinder block and weighed in at ~37# each vs ~25# for same size cinder block on craigs list for 2.00 each. An online calculator helped me figure how many blocks needed.

I dont know how I would have unloaded the blocks off the truck if the M59 would not been able to, the truck did not come with a "spyder" forklift...



I did have a close call due to a low tire while lifting a pallet of blocks that almost caused me to ruin a pair of underware...



Watching the brick layers work was impressive.. I am very glad I did not attempt this myself.









The idea I came up for the roof was pretty much over kill but the brick layers had no problem handling my request and set 4 8" long by 1/2" diam. J bolts for each beam. I got the 24# 8" I beams for fair price. I use the 8" so they would be even atop the wall for the upcoming .250" steel plate roof.





More pixs to come as progress allows... I wont attach the pictures of the make shift boom pole that we used to set the I beams in place for fear of being tar and feathered by the Saftey Police

hmm seems the redneck boom pole is in one picture...

 

[dave1949]

That's an interesting project. I often wonder why more folks don't do more to prepare themselves for nasty weather. Thankfully, this year the hurricane season has been a non-event for the US.
Dave.

 

[Chuck K.]

I agree Dave, it very well could be another 25 years before we are hit with another major hurricane and that would be great but after hearing some of the horror stories of the evacuation of the S/E Texas prior to hurricane Rita there is no way I will evacuate. The reinforced office will cost about twice as much as a wood framed office but for peace of mind I personally think its worth it.

 

[dave1949]

I agree Dave, it very well could be another 25 years before we are hit with another major hurricane and that would be great but after hearing some of the horror stories of the evacuation of the S/E Texas prior to hurricane Rita there is no way I will evacuate. The reinforced office will cost about twice as much as a wood framed office but for peace of mind I personally think its worth it.

Since you wanted an office anyways, the savings/peace of mind from not having to evacuate just one time would pay for the extra costs I think. Cheap at the price.
Dave.

 

[Chuck K.]

Managed to make a little progress to the office on my days off. While tightening the anchor bolts I was not pleased how easily a few of the galvenized j-bolts nuts stripped nor the look of void area.

We decided to grout them in for looks and added strength.

 

[westcliffe01]

Put some plywood on top, and some formwork around the edges and pour a 6" concrete (reinforced) deck. That will never go anywhere and best of all you can store a bunch of stuff on top of it.

And I need to warn you of the fire hazard of exposed spray on insulation. It has been said before, but here it is again http://www.foamrun.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/foambook_ch5-fire_and_foam.pdf

This is written by someone who did the work and believed the fire retardent claims, until his clients started having very dangerous fires that could have resulted in deaths. It is a sobering article and the solution to the fire hazard is well known - it needs a proper fire barrier that cuts off the air supply.

 

[EddieWalker]

Interesting project. I've often wondered what I'd do if a tornado was heading my way. Right now, the downstairs bathtub is our best option, but not really a great option.

I'm curious to see how you finish it off.

Eddie

 

[mjncad]

Chuck:

I like your idea and I second the reinforced concrete ceiling over your safe room. 1/4" plate is stout stuff for mere mortal humans; but I suspect hurricanes and tornadoes would just laugh at it.

I like the spray in insulation as that should insulate far better than batt fiberglass, and it sounds like your getting good advice to cover it with something to starve any potential fires of a fuel source.

Keep the pictures coming.

 

[Chuck K.]

Thanks for the compliments and input. Unfortunately it seems I believed the sales pitch that the closed cell foam would stop burning if the flame source was removed. After reading that information I now have my doubts. I have quite a bit of 5/8 sheetrock in the shop I may look into using it in the shop instead of the up coming house.

The concrete roof is an interesting idea but to be honest I am already over budget so bad on the shop project in general I am not sure if it will happen. I realize it would only take a couple of yards but I know from experience pump trucks are expensive. Although it is only ｼ plate the span between the beams is less than 5遅 11 I plan to weld some healthy tacks to the overhead beams. I have enough steel plate I may double it?mmmm

The door opening inward is how it was installed just for the reasons mentioned. Some folks pointed out it would be stronger opening out ward but my concern of it being block by some debris caused me to install it as it is. I do not recall the gauge of the door and frame. We started off with a normal industrial 3? wide door and decided to move up a couple gauges on both the frame and door.

 

[dex3361]

Why use a pump truck just use your FEL bucket to lift and dump. If you are worried about splashing concrete just spray your rig down with a little diesel and spray it off before it sets up.

 

[theboman]

A few years ago by brother was pouring something that was too big or too much work to mix and pour by hand and just a size that didn't justify having a cement truck to deliver, so he goes to the concrete place with two 55 gallon drums and tells them to fill them up!

I'm not sure how he emptied them but my guess would be 5 gallon buckets, boom pole and tractor and then pour the rest from the drums.

 

[jaquetarr]

You might be able to do a ferrocement type roof. It should be within the budget. with the steel wire & concrete worked in. Simple and strong with minimal materials (except labor).
Rgds,
tim

 

[ultrarunner]

A few years ago by brother was pouring something that was too big or too much work to mix and pour by hand and just a size that didn't justify having a cement truck to deliver, so he goes to the concrete place with two 55 gallon drums and tells them to fill them up!

I'm not sure how he emptied them but my guess would be 5 gallon buckets, boom pole and tractor and then pour the rest from the drums.

There was an old guy with a 1968 1 ton GMC pick-up that would pull into the ready-mix plant and just fill up a portion of his truck bed with wet-cement... he did walkways, steps and small driveways... he paid me once for a big job and I got to drive the truck back and forth to the ready mix plant... that old truck with split rims was really loaded down... and he had been doing it that way for years...

 

[mjncad]

I had an on-site small batch truck come out for a couple of yards that I didn't want to mix by hand in the wheelbarrow. It was relatively affordable as I recall at around $350+/- for concrete, truck and operator. The only thing I don't recall is how high the chute will go since all my stuff was for postholes.

Those trucks are pretty slick in that they show up with the contents in individual hoppers on the truck and are mixed together with water on site, which makes it easy to control the slump of the mix.

I don't know what pumper trucks cost; but I suspect they are far more expensive.

 

[Chuck K.]

Had some health issues been gone a while from the forum.. Anyhow here is a few more pics for those who whrere interested in this project...

Although the plate was only 1/4" it is heavy and hard to manuvere

 

[Chuck K.]

Wife wanted cedar but after pricing cedar 1x4" and 1x6" I went with cedar fence pickets and ripped some for trim.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

looks great....i don't know if there was any rebar/steel in the walls but i'd keep me a couple of hammers and some chisels in there!:thumbsup:

 

[kebo]

Chuck, glad you are back, hope your health is back to normal (good) now. You've done a fine job with the shelter, that was using the ole noggin to kill two birds with one stone too! Have a couple questions though.... How did you secure the first course of blocks to the pad? Also, did you finish out the structure with a steel door?

 

[Chuck K.]

Chuck, glad you are back, hope your health is back to normal (good) now. You've done a fine job with the shelter, that was using the ole noggin to kill two birds with one stone too! Have a couple questions though.... How did you secure the first course of blocks to the pad? Also, did you finish out the structure with a steel door?

Thanks Kebo, prostrate cancer at 50 years old sucks but life goes on..

The brick layers used a hammer drill and set 5/8" rebar every 3' and epoxy them into the slab. They also used mortar between the floor and first course. In hind site I wished I would have had them needle gun the pad area under the first course to give the grout more to adhere to.

I had some extra rebar so a length of rebar was dropped in every hole then filled completely with mortar.

I forget the gauge but yes we finished it out with a commercial metal door. What ever the industry norm. was I went one gauge heavier for piece of mind.

My luck never seems to change..

Finally got aroud to installing my hot water heater and plumbing it in, turned on the water only to have water running out from the deck....

The next problem was to try an figure out where the leak was..







I some how managed to center punch a hot water line with my nail gun :confused2:

Well maybe on my next days off I can get back on it and see what I screw up next :ashamed:...