Woods Brush Bull 720

[SCDolphin]

I just purchased a Woods Brush Bull 720. It came with a rubber front debris catcher and a rear metal debris catcher. I have ordered chains for the front and rear but I noticed that on page 38 of the instruction manual, it shows "Relocating Baffle". It talks about an internal baffle which I did not notice when I bought it being in the rear and "may need to be relocated to the front of the cutter to prevent excessive blow-out when cutter is used with a non-cab tractor".

Most tractors are non cabs. why would it be in the rear if that would cause stuff to be thrown forward. I would like any discharge thrown away from me not towards me.

Has anyone had to move one of these internal baffles from real to the front??

Also until I get the chains front and rear the back of the cutter has a metal band that would be replaced by chains.......for now should I leave it in place or remove it?????

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I just purchased a Woods Brush Bull 720. It came with a rubber front debris catcher and a rear metal debris catcher. I have ordered chains for the front and rear but I noticed that on page 38 of the instruction manual, it shows "Relocating Baffle". It talks about an internal baffle which I did not notice when I bought it being in the rear and "may need to be relocated to the front of the cutter to prevent excessive blow-out when cutter is used with a non-cab tractor".

Most tractors are non cabs. why would it be in the rear if that would cause stuff to be thrown forward. I would like any discharge thrown away from me not towards me.

Has anyone had to move one of these internal baffles from real to the front??

Also until I get the chains front and rear the back of the cutter has a metal band that would be replaced by chains.......for now should I leave it in place or remove it?????

I've got a BB840. You need to remove that "metal band" on the rear when you install the chains. In fact, DON'T remove it and it'll darn near remove itself first time you get into rough cutting conditions. I bought mine without chains and made my own. (Saved over $400) I cut one time with the metal gaurd still in place. By the time I got done, it had caught on something and the ends were bent outward, catching all sorts of grass and weeds.

Not sure about the "internal baffle. Maybe mine was "pre-baffle" as it doesn't have one. Look back through the archives at any thread where I joined in on discussions about Woods "BB" cutters and you'll read about my DISLIKE of them and how they tend to throw chaff and clipping forward rather than rearward. Maybe that caught up with Woods and they've done something to remedy the situation (?)

 

[Glowplug]

Hmmmm. . .this makes me reconsider my dreams of a Woods BB840. Maybe I'll start fantasizing about a Bush Hog 297 instead!!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Hmmmm. . .this makes me reconsider my dreams of a Woods BB840. Maybe I'll start fantasizing about a Bush Hog 297 instead!!

In addition to the BB840, I have an older Woods MD172 and a Bush Hog 286. I'm MUCH happier with the Bush Hog cutter, and the older Woods seems to cut with a lot less debris blowing forward than the BB840.

 

[SCDolphin]

I wished that I could show the diagram on page 38 of the manual. Right now the baffle is in the rear plus the metal band in the rear. I have not used the Woods yet until I relocate the baffle forward. There are a few bolts to remove so it should not take long. I will give a follow up on the bafflle after I move it.
I did look at the Bush Hog brand 296. I liked some features on it as well (like the slip clutch cover) but I liked how well the Woods was made. I also liked the larger inspection plate to access the cutter blade bolts.

 

[SCDolphin]

I don't know if this link works, but today while the tractor was on the trailer, I backed it up and after puttiing jackstands under the BB720 I removed the rear baffle (4 carriage bolts) and I was already to move it to the forward position; Alas the manual mentions the use of 2 self tapping 3/8 x 1 bolts used to hold the open end of the baffle where as in the rear facing position 4 carriage bolts were used, now it calls for 2 self tapping bolts..........Where are the D... bolts......doesn't say if they are included or not.....grhhhhhh.

So now I am dead in the water until I find some self tapping screw. If anyone is interested I will try some pictures.

If this link works the picture is on page 38

http://www.woodsequipment.com/manuals/manuals/Ag/MAN0051.pdf

 

[SCDolphin]

Finially have the internal baffle flipped and moved to the front. I am waiting on front and real chains so for now running the front rubber guard, front relocated baffle and removed the rear metal band since I am working out in open field. My BB720 has 2 positions to accommodate class 1 and class 2 hitches. The dealer set it up for class 2. I am trying the class 1 position now. Other than moving the baffle forward I think I am really going to like the bh. I tried several operating speeds from 540 (2600 rpm) to 300 pto rpm....cut just fine at a lower speed and did not bog at all 15-1800 rpm engine speed.

 

[DaddyRabbit]

WoW, thats one heck of a nice set-up you have there.

Finially have the internal baffle flipped and moved to the front. I am waiting on front and real chains so for now running the front rubber guard, front relocated baffle and removed the rear metal band since I am working out in open field. My BB720 has 2 positions to accommodate class 1 and class 2 hitches. The dealer set it up for class 2. I am trying the class 1 position now. Other than moving the baffle forward I think I am really going to like the bh. I tried several operating speeds from 540 (2600 rpm) to 300 pto rpm....cut just fine at a lower speed and did not bog at all 15-1800 rpm engine speed.

 

[SCDolphin]

The thanks..........I hope that the Woods is good equipment.

 

[mikim]

I've got a BB600 and have beat the devil out of it .... it just comes back for more. Mine is 6 years old but I don't believe it has that baffle. I'm going to have to check..... I just never looked. When I sharpen blades with a 4" grinder is the only time I look under there and I'm all about getting the blades done and getting to work. It looks like a nice thing to have to help with flying debris.