Wooden Fence Posts

[Mudfarmer]

Post hole augers are pretty cost effective. I always put in corner posts with the auger and line posts (T-posts) with down pressure from the tractor bucket. After the T-post gets started, back up a bit to keep it going in straight. You don't need any special appliance except for maybe a wife or girlfriend to hold the post upright when you get started. If the ground is a little hard you can actually pound with the bucket - that used to work really well with my old Ford 1700. However, I doubt a 6–8-inch wooden post will go in like T-posts do with only the bucket pressure unless the ground is so marshy that you risk getting the tractor stuck.

 

[divyakfm]

Are you talking those little 3" sharpened stakes? Those are meant to be pushed in. They go in easy but rot off quickly too.

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/239365-hartbrand-7-drive-pine-wood-stake.html

In 1978, we bought a couple hundred of these for $1 each. Our fence alternated; wood and T-posts; corners, gates and pulls were old RR ties. Made a pounder from 6" pipe and 1" plate, no handles. Started a hole with a ditching shovel, plumbed post and pounded. Living along a busy highway, we used 5 barb with one hot. Today many of these wood ones are still there. The big problem was breaking off at ground level not rotting. Had to replace all the RR ties with used power poles.

 

[TaasEart]

A lot depends on how tight the ground is. Also, if the ground is too soft, you need to develop an additional mechanism to keep the wooden posts from falling. I used to have wooden posts in my yard too, but this summer, I got rid of them and replaced them with concrete posts. And between the posts, I installed special garden screens that I bought here luxuryscreens.co.uk. The concrete posts are much stronger and more resilient.