Wire feed to stick?

Repairman Jim · Nov 4, 2011

Hello, can you modify a wire feed welder to a stick? I wanted to do low amp welding and I thought that might reduce the heat. My stick welder goes down to 40 amps. It still heats up a lot when using a small diameter stick.

Shield Arc · Nov 4, 2011

Jim on the whole you can't convert a CV, (Mig) to weld stick, (CC).
If it will help I know an old trick to lower the amps of your stick, (CC) machine.

Iplayfarmer · Nov 4, 2011

Shield Arc said:
Jim on the whole you can't convert a CV, (Mig) to weld stick, (CC).
If it will help I know an old trick to lower the amps of your stick, (CC) machine.

Don't leave us hanging!!! What's the trick?

I've had plenty of times when I wished I could get my stick welder to go lower.

deereman75 · Nov 4, 2011

Shield Arc said:
Jim on the whole you can't convert a CV, (Mig) to weld stick, (CC).
If it will help I know an old trick to lower the amps of your stick, (CC) machine.

I wouldnt mine hearing that trick! My lincoln always runs way too hot for thin stuff.

Shield Arc · Nov 4, 2011

:laughing:

Dropper resistor trick for CC constant current machines only!

You need to use a dropper resistor made from a piece of 3/32" or 1/8" filler rod, depending on the amount of amps you want to drop.
Attach the 1/8" filler rod to the welding bench with a vise-grip and let it hang vertical then attach the ground clamp to the other end of the filler rod.
As the arc is established the filler rod (dropper resistor) will begin to heat thus lowering out-put amps at the torch / stinger.
CAUTION as the filler rod can become cherry red depending on the amount of amps being dropped.
To adjust for the correct amount of amps required of the weldment, one could trim the filler rod to different lengths or change the diameter although I've never found this to be necessary.

deereman75 · Nov 4, 2011

I am going to have to try that, thanks.

Soundguy · Nov 4, 2011

I'm now even happier that my machine has a dial instead of pre-set taps.

I also have a lil 30/70a 1/16 - 5/64 stick job that I do sheet metal work with on occasion.

soundguy

deereman75 · Nov 4, 2011

Soundguy said:
I'm now even happier that my machine has a dial instead of pre-set taps.

I also have a lil 30/70a 1/16 - 5/64 stick job that I do sheet metal work with on occasion.

soundguy

Hey I have got a lincoln tombstone, and it almost never leaves the 75 amp tap. It has a 100% duty cycle there only, and it is perfect for my most used rod, a 3/32 6011.

Shield Arc · Nov 4, 2011

deereman75 said:
I am going to have to try that, thanks.

This is actually used more often when using a Tig torch on a CC machine.

Soundguy · Nov 4, 2011

deereman75 said:
Hey I have got a lincoln tombstone, and it almost never leaves the 75 amp tap. It has a 100% duty cycle there only, and it is perfect for my most used rod, a 3/32 6011.

I use 1/8 6011 the most, with 1/8 6013 the next.. my amps are usually 90-105 somewhere int here.

I think my machine has 100% at 100A.. so I'm also welding at the 'magic spot' as you are. works out good that way.

soundguy

deereman75 · Nov 4, 2011

Soundguy said:
I use 1/8 6011 the most, with 1/8 6013 the next.. my amps are usually 90-105 somewhere int here.

I think my machine has 100% at 100A.. so I'm also welding at the 'magic spot' as you are. works out good that way.

soundguy

On your hobart I think the duty cycle goes up as the amperage goes down, my lincoln it has a 20% duty cycle at every setting, except 75 amps, where it is 100%. So you actually have a lower duty cycle at 60 amps then 75 amps. A bit annoying, but it works fine for me.

yomax4 · Nov 4, 2011

Not being a Stick Welding guy, I have to ask, Could you also reduce output amps by using extra long undersized leads? Or would it not be enough..Curious.

Shield Arc · Nov 4, 2011

yomax4 said:
Could you also reduce output amps by using extra long undersized leads? Or would it not be enough..Curious.

That could drop the voltage, which would make you believe the heat was dropping. To a degree same results.

yomax4 · Nov 4, 2011

Cool idea with the filler rod as a resitor. I know it was nearly impossible to Tig weld on most of the Transformer stick units because they just didn't turn down low enough..Another tool for the box.

Shield Arc · Nov 4, 2011

yomax4 said:
I know it was nearly impossible to Tig weld on most of the Transformer stick units because they just didn't turn down low enough.

Back in the day, that's all we got to work with, that or an engine drive.

Soundguy · Nov 4, 2011

deereman75 said:
On your hobart I think the duty cycle goes up as the amperage goes down, my lincoln it has a 20% duty cycle at every setting, except 75 amps, where it is 100%. So you actually have a lower duty cycle at 60 amps then 75 amps. A bit annoying, but it works fine for me.

Yep.. imho, a thermal mass issue.. the higher the amps the lower the duty cycle. at max amps.. 235 I think the duty cycle is very low.. like 10% maybee 5.

from 100a and down it's 100% I like the continous dial.. no click settings to have to choose. I believe it is actually moving a single secondary on a transport to accomplish this, vs different taps / secondaries.

soundguy

California · Nov 4, 2011

Soundguy said:
I believe it is actually moving a single secondary on a transport to accomplish this, vs different taps / secondaries.

I downloaded the manual for your model because it is the closest documentation available to my elderly (1960's) Wards PowerKraft 230AC. Mine simply moves a slug, core, in/out of the center of the transformer to adjust current. I thought your model worked on this same principle.

I like this simplicity - there's nothing delicate in there; pretty much nothing to go bad or burn up.