When making a plunge cut, it is tough to do with the anti-kickback chain, which is the primary reason that I don't use it. That chain is designed to prevent cutting when the chain goes around the tip of the bar, to limit kick back. The plunge-cut requires the chain to cut while going around the tip of the bar. A plunge cut is sending the tip of the bar straight into the wood. Now, that said, I believe the anti-kickback chain may cut very slowly when plunge cutting. For sure, you can't make this cut with the silly metal attachments on the tips of some bars. I don't think anyone can use a chainsaw seriously to cut wood with one of these pieces of metal on there. It is designed to protect the mfg. only. It likely is the first thing removed. But that is another subject.
I find that a chain that is moving at cutting speed will not cause kick-back. It is when the chain is slowing down, or moving slow, that making contact with the tip and wood will cause the bar to kick. I also find that there is more kick-back with smaller saws, meaning both smaller in bar length and in weight.
When I rev the saw to cutting speed, I just hold it firmly and start cutting straight into the tree. Most of my cutting is white and red oak, and I always keep the chain sharp. Have had no problem with the bar kicking back when doing it this way. I still am cognizant that it could, and don't handle the saw lightly, but firmly. Always plan on kickback, and keep body parts out of the path of a saw bar that might be kicking back. That includes overhead sawing of limbs as the saw bar could come back onto the shoulder (may take an ear when it goes by too). Don't do "one hand" sawing, such as is tempting when on a ladder, or when bending a limb to avoid pinching the bar. Both hands on the bars will resist a lot of kickback. A loosely held saw can kick back much easier. Protective gear is good. They sell hardhats, kevlar gloves, and kevlar shoulder pads in safety jackets. In addition to the chaps and shoes.
