Which Stick Welder?

cjw · Apr 12, 2003

Go with the Lincoln. I have a G 9000 in 92 it was the bigest one made before going to diesel. Right out of high school I attended welding school at Lincoln Electric in Cleveland, Ohio. It was a three month course, so i guess Im prejudice towards lincoln. In school we welded with millers. They were good machines too. Just yesterday I took a picture of it after welding hooks on the bucket of my Mahindra

Boone · Apr 12, 2003

Got to thinking about mig joints this morning after pounding some T fence posts with the post pounder, I noticed the handle had come apart at the weld. Owning welders turns this situation into a slight inconvience. Do I stick it together or run a mig weld to repair it, nice to be able to choose.

gerlacr · Apr 12, 2003

I just had to add my two cents. There has been allot of good advice in this string of messages. Taking a welding class with a good instructor is probably the best thing you can do. Then practice, practice and practice. I agree with the DC/AC vs AC only comments. The added cost of the DC is well worth it. The comments about learning how to stick weld first are right on the money. Personally, I like my Miller Thunderbolt. Something that may interest some of you out there is a modification that I made to mine. It should apply to any of the lower end AC/DC stick welders. I added capacitors to the output of the rectifier that converts the AC to DC. I used 5 electrolytic capacitors that are 3300mfd and rated at 150V. You have to get the polarity correct and make sure they are connected after the rectifier but before the output choke. I compared the welding characteristics with and without and there was a definite difference. The DC output of these AC/DC welders is actually pulsed DC that comes from rectifying the AC. The capacitors filter out the ripple and turn it into constant DC. The arc is easier to start and once started produces a smoother arc. It also seemed to provide a hotter weld for the same setting. It welds more like the big machines we used in class.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 12, 2003

Dear poverty row youth: /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif One little trick that welders use when "in the field" is to keep two different sized rods in the rod pouch. You can slip a piece of light wall PVC pipe in there to use as a separator. You can then carry, for example, 1/8" and 5/32" rod right in the same pouch. If what you are welding needs a scooch more heat, drop down to the 1/8" rod. Saves crawling up and out of the bell hole and up onto the truck to adjust the machine and then doing it all over again five minutes later. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif The same goes for in the shop. By having the two different sizes you can get that welding heat range that may be right in between the welder detent adjustments. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I grew up with a "tombstone" Lincoln AC machine and you would not believe the number of pieces of equipment we built with it. We even built up tracks on the Cats and hardfaced subsoiler shanks with it....going hour after hour in the farm shop. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Anonymous Poster · Apr 12, 2003

I have never tried to weld aluminum with stick,just m.i.g. and t.i.g.,but it is done .D.C.E.P. is what you use.Pre heating would be a good thing with a torch.Cleaning all slag between passes and the finished weld is extra important because the slag on aluminum stick is supposed to be corrosive.Now as far as what kind of rod,you would need to ask a welding supply place or get on LINCOLNS web page.AMPS ,you would have to experiment,I would try yo go no bigger than a 3/32" rod,and start with about 80 amps.You need some scrap. RICHARD GAUTHIER

Spencer · Apr 13, 2003

Richard, where are you from? Did you have any family in Michigan?

Anonymous Poster · Apr 13, 2003

W.VA.,.Probably,I'm a stray.But not any relatives that I know about. RICHARD GAUTHIER

Taylortractornut · Apr 13, 2003

I bought a Miller AC/DC Thunderbolt when i was 14 and im 23 now, Ive built brush rakes for small dozers welded loader buckets and the like jus took a while. I respected the duty cyale and its still a good machine. I had been gettin ragged by a friend to sell me this little welder when i bought my old Millermatic 35 mig welder. i told him i couldnt sell something that reliable that mig wont do it all and while i was welding his trailer yesterday i was puttin the expanded metal in the floor and ran out or wire, This town rolls up the sidewalks at 12:00 on Saturday. I rolled out the little stick and kept on a truckin. As for the DC welders ive seen a few folks here take hug ac welders and put a DC converter between the wall and the machines to get a DC welder. i

Anonymous Poster · Apr 15, 2003

Just got back from my third night at welding school. Spent the evening running beads over sheet metal (gas welding--everyone else is using stick or mig). Tomorrow night I get to try welding two pieces together. Yay!.

Thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it. I am really interested only in AC/DC stick beyond the gas rig I recently picked up.

I will look into the Miller Thunderbolt too. It sounds like it might be what I'm looking for.

Again, thanks for all the advice.

SnowRidge

Anonymous Poster · Apr 17, 2003

I had 145 Amps transformer stick welder before, and sold it, because it was too "weak". Now I'm using home made 220/380 Volts, about 250Amps, AC/DC stick welder, most time on DC. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
If you are buying for a long time, go with over 160A. Maybe you will not need its full amperage, but on lower welding currents (about 100 Amps), it has good intermitence (full time welding). /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Anonymous Poster · Apr 23, 2003

I just finished my welding class about a month ago. I really liked the industrial MIG and TIG machines we were using, but for what I will be doing, I only need stick right now and wouldn't be able to justify the expense. I wanted a heavy duty machine, so I bought a used Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC for less than $500 and am picking it up Monday.

I believe that the key is duty cycle - I don't want to have to wait for the machine. I looked at the Thunderbolt, but I went with the Dialarc because of it's higher 100% duty cycle amperage.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 26, 2003

Just a suggestion if you purchase a new welder.... Mine came with one long cable so you could cut it to any two lengths and attach the plugs, rod holder and clamp. It seems logical to just cut this length of cord in half. It would be smarter to cut one short piece off for the "ground clamp" and leave the electrode holder cable long so you have more room to move around. I think I cut 1/3 off the original length of cable for the ground lead and that has worked well for me.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 26, 2003

Hi,

I agree with Davidb, but there is one thing to consider.

If you are welding on somethink like a bridge, then you don't really worry about where the ground connection is located on the structure.

Now on a tractor, you should worry about how the current flows...you don't really want those welding currents flowing through bearings and such, where pitting could be caused.

In the case of welding on your tractor...it would be prudent to put the ground clamp as close as you can to the point you are welding at.

Better safe than sorry...

bnixon · Apr 28, 2003

I am also looking into purchasing a new stick welder. I am looking at the lincoln 225/125 ac/dc stick welder and the dc version.

I have never welded anything before so I have no experiance at all.

My question is what do you use the DC for? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif It costs about $140 for the DC option. I am trying to determine if it is worth the extra $.

I will mainly be using it to weld on Implements and small projects around the house (Go-Carts/Dollys/metal tables....)

Thanks,

BB_TX · Apr 28, 2003

Brandon-There have been many discussions on this in the past. You can do a search for welder and find lots of them. However, here is a <font color="blue"> web page </font> from Miller for a quicky answer.

Rch · Apr 28, 2003

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/ Look at "welding 101" Good site for your question.

Anonymous Poster · Apr 28, 2003

Bnixon, "I will mainly be using it to weld on Implements and small projects around the house (Go-Carts/Dollys/metal tables....)" pretty much sums up 2 things for me, first being you need to either find someone who can teach you, or enroll in a school program before you buy anything. From my seat, your list of items you want to weld would probably fall into the basket of witch machine and process will do it best for me.
Most implement repair usually is done with stick, because of machine capacity, rod selection, and ability to weld in invariably lousey positions and on dirty metal.
Gocarts and things like tables might be a choice of MIG or TIG, depending on where I need to get the weld in, and how strong the weld needs to be. Could I weld either with a Stick, provbably, but I usually wouldn't if I didn't have to. I'd be more likely to go at light fabrications with an O/A torch.
Bottom Line, the weld isn't in the machine, it's the man behind the hood or goggles who makes the weld.
Both of the sites referred to have excellent information, BUT, let me assure you, no site, video tape, or book will ever teach you to weld. I can teach all you'll need in 10 minutes, BUT, it will take years for you to learn to be a weldOr. In a lot of ways, it's like being a concert pianist, Practice and only practice will get you there. You wouldn't think you could buy a Steinway today and play a concert at Carnagee Hall Friday.
Miller offers an excellent "learn to wweld" package for around $25-, and you get a cupon for a free jacket along with it. I'd suggest you spend the first $25- on that program.